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RE coolant: Search for discussions, several, on "water bridge"
I'm not familiar with fuel distb. but it sounds like a leak. A top end refresh of vacuum bits may be in order.
.., thanks I,ve checked out some" water bridge " posts known in UK as " Thermostat housing" confusing ? and that job seems like fun with all the associated pitfalls... !
I forgot to mention,. some time ago I replaced all vacuum hosing with silcone hosing.
on the older cars you want to check the rear water outlet,
and the rear block off plate.
also look along the head to block area for white crusty deposits,
if you see these then your headgasket is weeping coolant and this could also be a potential for a leak
It could also be where the heater control valve is attached to the engine, right rear of the engine. Plenty of these elbows have corroded so bad that they fail, leaking in to the valley.
Yep, that more than likely is the block off plate at the rear of the engine. by the way, dont plan on trying to remove those bolts. or if you do, be CAREFUL!!! you run a risk of spinning off the heads and being left with a mess. I did it, some how, my mechanic at the time, was able to drill and tap just to the outside of the broken bolt and put a new bolt on. it worked and was lucky FOR sure
...,very many thanks to everyone who took the time to offer their advice , very much appreciated and FYI., I had a call this morning to pick up the car, my friend who does the major stuff for me rang to say she was running great. he had worked on the car all day and untill 10 in the evening when his staff had finished for the day, he likes it that way so as to no distractions and everything went back in methodical order, the valley and associated injection stuff looks like new after he also cleaned everything in there. At this juncture I dont know the exact details of how he fixed it, but suffice to say she has definately got her get up and go, no misfireing and lots of power. Couple of things which I,m wondering over is the tickover is high, approx 950rpm, manual box. I mentioned this and he said give it a few days and see if it settles, if not he will reset it. Got home just now and left the car for an hour, and it,s not as high, but I,ll give it a couple more days.
Second thing , and this has me stumped, I,m getting no cold air from the centre vent, but was before the work was done and marginal cold air to the screen ? The only thing that I can think of in the area he was working was the heater valve, of which I keep a new one in my garage !
He may have knocked off your vacuum line to the A/C valves, it has the blue/back valve that hooks up to the brake booster through a short vacuum line. That is one easy area it could have been knocked off.
It is also possible he knocked off or broke the black vacuum line that runs into the interior.
He could have also forgot to hook up the heater valve causing a large vacuum leak that will remove all vacuum tot he other valves and not allow them to function.
I have suffered through all of this, and this is just my personal experience, but I hope it helps
He may have knocked off your vacuum line to the A/C valves, it has the blue/back valve that hooks up to the brake booster through a short vacuum line. That is one easy area it could have been knocked off.
It is also possible he knocked off or broke the black vacuum line that runs into the interior.
He could have also forgot to hook up the heater valve causing a large vacuum leak that will remove all vacuum tot he other valves and not allow them to function.
I have suffered through all of this, and this is just my personal experience, but I hope it helps
..., many thanks for your help, I removed the air filter assembly and had a look where the heater valve is and everything is as it should be, ie, orange vac pipe connected and nothing broken off or stressed in that area, looked at the comb flap and it is closed, I,m wondering if the heater valve has given up, checked my records and I last replaced it in Sep 2011, if the valve isn,t working would it not open the comb ?... got me stumped ?
You need to observe it in action. Does the piston move in/out when you change the slider on the control dash from cold to hot? This would be with the engine running, you'll need an assistant. Even this is no guarantee. Mine moved, but the channel through which the coolant passes was jammed by an internal gasket inside the valve that was out of position. So it couldn't completely close off the flow.
You need to observe it in action. Does the piston move in/out when you change the slider on the control dash from cold to hot? This would be with the engine running, you'll need an assistant. Even this is no guarantee. Mine moved, but the channel through which the coolant passes was jammed by an internal gasket inside the valve that was out of position. So it couldn't completely close off the flow.
Thank,s Steve, I could try what you suggest "with an assistant", the car stood six months without turning a wheel so something in the valve might have warped over that time or maybe just fit a new valve for peace of mind which I already have in my parts drawer. I can distinctly remember that the comb flap was working fine just prior to the winter layup, the flap is currently closed, is that default position ? cheer,s.,
08-19-2014, 11:02 AM
Coolant in engine valley ?
