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89GT Starting Problems

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Old 10-01-2013, 10:34 PM
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jtrygstad
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Default 89GT Starting Problems

My 89 GT has starting problems that have evolved from "warm start" issues to no or near-no start when cold.

Symptoms:
Occasional no start when warm; let set for an hour or so and starts up. This has happened about 5 times.
But, Sunday (two days ago) I thought I had another warm start failure. However, waiting an hour or so, car starts but dies when I turn on the lights. Figured this was due to over-cranking trying to start. Yesterday I go back to my car (sitting at my son's townhouse apartment) ready to jump start since I just know it is warm start thing. But battery seems to recovered somewhat, so don't bother to jump it. Cranks without starting.
Today I go back armed with relays I got from Roger hoping that it is the fuel pump. Replace the ones for ignition, injection and fuel pump. Starts up, but run rough and dies easily. Ran it for about 5 minutes with foot on the gas to keep idle up and prevent dying. After a bit, take foot off and while idling, I hit the window switch and it kills the engine. Can't restart. This is where I am at right now. Wondering if the roughness when running was just one side of engine.
What I have been doing while thinking this has been a warm start issue:

Watching Shaikhzeep's posting about his 89 S4 closely, following much of the advice. The following checks have performed:
Installed 3 new relays mentioned above, but not the EZK one.
Checked Temp II sensor - its ok.
Check fuel dampners and pressure regulator - no gas smell and each hold vacuum when tested with MityVac.
I'm keen to get this running for some long road trips - plus this GT is really sweet to drive after my 83.

Any ideas? Most appreciated!
Old 10-02-2013, 12:11 AM
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jon928se
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Originally Posted by jtrygstad
My 89 GT has starting problems that have evolved from "warm start" issues to no or near-no start when cold.

Symptoms:
Occasional no start when warm; let set for an hour or so and starts up. This has happened about 5 times.
But, Sunday (two days ago) I thought I had another warm start failure. However, waiting an hour or so, car starts but dies when I turn on the lights. Figured this was due to over-cranking trying to start. Yesterday I go back to my car (sitting at my son's townhouse apartment) ready to jump start since I just know it is warm start thing. But battery seems to recovered somewhat, so don't bother to jump it. Cranks without starting.
Today I go back armed with relays I got from Roger hoping that it is the fuel pump. Replace the ones for ignition, injection and fuel pump. Starts up, but run rough and dies easily. Ran it for about 5 minutes with foot on the gas to keep idle up and prevent dying. After a bit, take foot off and while idling, I hit the window switch and it kills the engine. Can't restart. This is where I am at right now. Wondering if the roughness when running was just one side of engine.
What I have been doing while thinking this has been a warm start issue:

Watching Shaikhzeep's posting about his 89 S4 closely, following much of the advice. The following checks have performed:
Installed 3 new relays mentioned above, but not the EZK one.
Checked Temp II sensor - its ok.
Check fuel dampners and pressure regulator - no gas smell and each hold vacuum when tested with MityVac.
I'm keen to get this running for some long road trips - plus this GT is really sweet to drive after my 83.

Any ideas? Most appreciated!
Time to clean all the grounds, battery earth strap and carefully examine the condition of +12V connections to the CE panel.
Old 10-02-2013, 04:36 AM
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FredR
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As Jon says, always good to check all the earthing points are phyically there and clean.

However, if operating something electrical causes the engine to cut out then I suspect it is a bit more than an earthing problem assuming the two are connected. I would try to replicate the symptoms to link the two - it could be a randon coincidence but you cannot ignore the possible linkage.

You could also do a thermal survey on the relays whilst the engine is "cold". A hot/warm relay whilst the engine is cold is quite a giveaway. Has the battery been going flat quickly by any chance?

Regards

Fred
Old 10-02-2013, 08:43 AM
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jtrygstad
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Thanks guys. I have been thinking the next thing I should do is take the battery out and back home to give it a good charge. This will force me to clean/tighten those connections. Topped up battery is once less variable in the quest. Tonight after work.

The current difficulty I have is this is parked at large appartment complex (fortunately in a covered space), so I have to bring tools to the car and have limited space to work.
Old 10-02-2013, 10:24 AM
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jeff spahn
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Ignition switch. It does all kinds of funky things when it goes bad.
Old 10-02-2013, 03:45 PM
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928mac
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Make sure you did not get some bad gas and end up with a plugged fuel filter.
the only reason I say this is because it needs extra fuel to start cold and some times do to the heat they me vapor lock a bit and not get enough fuel.

Just a thought as I dont know your diagnostics
Old 10-02-2013, 11:09 PM
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SteveG
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Just b/c it "recovered" somewhat and cranked does not mean it holds a charge. I had one show 12.5 and have a bad cell, showed in load test. Does not mean grounds can be ignored.

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Old 10-03-2013, 12:00 PM
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jtrygstad
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Took battery out and charged it last night. The Battery Minder diagnostics say everything is ok. Will stick it back in tonight. Perhaps removing the battery may have "reset/rebooted" the electronics, etc.
Old 10-03-2013, 01:10 PM
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76FJ55
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Have you actually tried bypassing the relays using jumper wires? This will isolate the engine management from the rest of the chassis electronics. Jumper the XVI (EZK), XX (fuel pump) and XXV (LH) relays, and try again. Pin 30 of these 3 relays are supplied power direct from the battery on the 2 smaller wires from the battery +12 terminal, jumping these relays will effectively make the engine a standalone system and should not be effected by the other electronics. If you still have issues the most likely scenario is the commonly shared grounds. These would be the main engine ground and the battery to chassis ground.



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