My 1982 928 Project
#16
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You got your hands full, but I applaud your effort. In case you don't have the workshop manuals (not owner's manual), you can download them here:
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
They're about halfway down the page.
For the injector fuel hose, if you're going to go ahead and do it now, I recommend not using the factory compression fittings. Instead, us FI line and clamps (see picture). Not sure if Roger (928 R Us still sells kits or not.) Brutus already mentioned the other soft lines near the engine. The other soft lines around the tank and pump will no doubt need replaced due to dry rot, but I think (like you), the priority would be getting the engine to fire first.
I probably wouldn't have yanked the intake yet, but, there you are... I also think you have the right idea, get it running before you pull the engine. Otherwise, you may reinstall the engine later, it still not fire, and then there's a lot more possible things that could be wrong due to wiring, mis-connecting vacuum hoses, etc.
Take lots of pictures along the way--not only to help you put stuff back together, but also to look back on once you have it restored. Good luck!
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
They're about halfway down the page.
For the injector fuel hose, if you're going to go ahead and do it now, I recommend not using the factory compression fittings. Instead, us FI line and clamps (see picture). Not sure if Roger (928 R Us still sells kits or not.) Brutus already mentioned the other soft lines near the engine. The other soft lines around the tank and pump will no doubt need replaced due to dry rot, but I think (like you), the priority would be getting the engine to fire first.
I probably wouldn't have yanked the intake yet, but, there you are... I also think you have the right idea, get it running before you pull the engine. Otherwise, you may reinstall the engine later, it still not fire, and then there's a lot more possible things that could be wrong due to wiring, mis-connecting vacuum hoses, etc.
Take lots of pictures along the way--not only to help you put stuff back together, but also to look back on once you have it restored. Good luck!
I have already downloaded the manuals and skimmed through them a bit. Mainly regarding the fuel lines. I have seen too many fires on here that have made me really paranoid.
And in hindsight I wish I had not removed the intake but I had no money coming in that I could put towards the car and wanted to get some wrench time in. Too late now.
And I am taking plenty of pictures. I want to document the entire process so I can see where I came from and show other people. That and I know you guys like to see them too.
Yeah, you should concentrate on getting it running, then driving before you drop a lot of cash into it. Once you're driving it, you can prioritize the refurbishment. We kinda sneak up on reliable as we drive the **** out of them... that's the best thing you can do for your new to you beast. Good luck, have fun.
Ok so have another question.... I'm worried about the brakes on this car. The master cylinder has what appears to be rust on it. Should I replace it before driving it? And should I flush the brake system before trying to drive it. I think the latter question is a pretty obvious yes but I figured I would ask anyways.
#17
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At least some of the master cyls are not painted from the factory and generally look rusty on the outside. Totally normal. Yes, flush the fluid.
#20
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A tranny kit is ~$30 and a case of ATF. Personally, I'd recommend Valvoline MaxLife (high milage) Dex/Merc--it will help with the leaks that you're no doubt going to have. Sounds like you've really done your homework, so you know the deal about draining the torque converter, etc. I think Dwayne's got a write-up on it, but if not, Tony (V1uhoh) has a great one too. If you don't drain it now, there's no telling what kind of fluid is currently in it. Plus, it will be good to do some crawling around under there anyway to inspect your half-shaft boots and other stuff. The rub is, your engine needs to be running first so you can get the fluid moving to fill the tranny and adjust the level.
#21
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I'd dump all fluids with the exception of the radiator. I would say dump that too, but if you're going to yank the engine after you get it running, no sense wasting $20-$30 on coolant now. But if you're going to wait on pulling the engine, dump it now.
A tranny kit is ~$30 and a case of ATF. Personally, I'd recommend Valvoline MaxLife (high milage) Dex/Merc--it will help with the leaks that you're no doubt going to have. Sounds like you've really done your homework, so you know the deal about draining the torque converter, etc. I think Dwayne's got a right up on it, but if not, Tony (V1uhoh) has a great one too.
A tranny kit is ~$30 and a case of ATF. Personally, I'd recommend Valvoline MaxLife (high milage) Dex/Merc--it will help with the leaks that you're no doubt going to have. Sounds like you've really done your homework, so you know the deal about draining the torque converter, etc. I think Dwayne's got a right up on it, but if not, Tony (V1uhoh) has a great one too.
Thanks for the ATF recommendation. I have done quite a bit of reading as I get very bored at work and want to learn all I can about the car. I do not know how to drain the torque converter but I will be looking for those threads in a bit.
#23
Drifting
Welcome...try not to be in TOO big a hurry. Do the work yourself if you can to save $$$. Take pics and post questions as they come up. Lots of help here for you if you choose to use it. I could NOT own one of these cars without the help I have gotten here over the years.
Meet some of the local 928 guys too. I'm sure there are a few close to you...extra sets of eyes on something is always worth the effort.
Lastly...always remember is an OLD car. Its an OLD German car. Its an old German super car. It will never be a Camero or Mustang. Parts will be pricer and not all your motor head friends will know what to do to help, or even want to. It , most likely , will never be "finished" but just stay the course...if you WANT it bad enough...it will happen.
Meet some of the local 928 guys too. I'm sure there are a few close to you...extra sets of eyes on something is always worth the effort.
Lastly...always remember is an OLD car. Its an OLD German car. Its an old German super car. It will never be a Camero or Mustang. Parts will be pricer and not all your motor head friends will know what to do to help, or even want to. It , most likely , will never be "finished" but just stay the course...if you WANT it bad enough...it will happen.
#24
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Be careful with those electrical connectors (to Fuel injectors, etc). They are probably delicate and are definitely not a cheap replacement.
#26
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I've had good luck finding the 2 pin AMP connectors at a Pick-A-Part for almost free. They are present on most German and Japanise cars....
#27
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Welcome...try not to be in TOO big a hurry. Do the work yourself if you can to save $$$. Take pics and post questions as they come up. Lots of help here for you if you choose to use it. I could NOT own one of these cars without the help I have gotten here over the years.
Meet some of the local 928 guys too. I'm sure there are a few close to you...extra sets of eyes on something is always worth the effort.
Lastly...always remember is an OLD car. Its an OLD German car. Its an old German super car. It will never be a Camero or Mustang. Parts will be pricer and not all your motor head friends will know what to do to help, or even want to. It , most likely , will never be "finished" but just stay the course...if you WANT it bad enough...it will happen.
Meet some of the local 928 guys too. I'm sure there are a few close to you...extra sets of eyes on something is always worth the effort.
Lastly...always remember is an OLD car. Its an OLD German car. Its an old German super car. It will never be a Camero or Mustang. Parts will be pricer and not all your motor head friends will know what to do to help, or even want to. It , most likely , will never be "finished" but just stay the course...if you WANT it bad enough...it will happen.
I plan on doing all the work myself. I for one cannot afford to pay someone to work on any car, much less this car. And I enjoy getting dirty and wrenching.
I have already met some local 928 guys through the local PCA chapter here in Oklahoma. I will be joining the PCA shortly. I went down to the Dallas group's breakfast this past Saturday, but was unable to actually attend the breakfast as the car I was riding in broke a cam gear. =( I was riding with RKDinOKC.
And thankfully I do not know any American car mechanics. I am the mechanic of all my friends and usually end up working on their cars. That makes it difficult to get help sometimes but makes for some interesting learning challenges. And I'm not too worried about being 'finished' with the car. I'm sure this project is going to take a few years to get anywhere remotely 'finished.'
Thank you good sir. I'm hoping to learn a lot and have a great time doing it. And finally have something to show for it when I'm done. Can't wait to drive her.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=18624_0_0_
I'm not looking forward to replacing these fuel lines because those 2 main lines running by the passenger side head are going to be hard to remove. Any suggestions for removing them?
#28
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Ok, I know I may get some negative opinions on this but that is why I am posting it. I want to know what you guys think of this pump. I am looking to use it as a cheaper way to help get the car started and running. And possibly look at replacing it with a better pump, if this one isn't up to par, once the car is running and driving well.
http://www.fuelpumps.com/19811982-po...5l-p-3133.html
http://www.fuelpumps.com/19811982-po...5l-p-3133.html