NoVector

That rear axle nut is one tuff mother to remove! You can see how many 1/2'-drive extenders I snapped. Too many rum/cokes last night and a lifetime of Wheaties for breakfast I guess… I bought a 32mm socket and 3/4" ratchet and extender today and it easily came off with me putting my full weight on the cheater pipe. Anyway, for those thinking about doing this, take it from me and start with 3/4" and save on your inventory of 1/2" stuff. Surprisingly, the cheese-head bolts on the other end of the shaft came off pretty easy—although I sprayed them with PBR and let it set over night.

BTW – I don’t have a torque wrench for 250+ pounds. Is it safe to say standing on the pipe (in reverse) is enough torque when tightening it?

SeanR

Been there and done that and your advice is spot on.

Gregg K

That's what impact wrenches are for. I learned that from removing nuts on a commercial vehicle I own. A ten foot cheater bar would barely do the job. Finally I ended up just buying a cheap impact wrench. Live and learn.

250 ft lbf is quite easy to apply with a wrench. What you saw was probably far higher than that due to it being "seasoned".

928Myles

If you know your weight and stand on the cheater bar the right distance from the nut then it is easy to generate the correct torque +/-. EG: If you are 125lb and stand 2 ft from the nut centre then you generate 250ft-lbs of torque. Adjust to apply to your situation ;-)

Myles

Lizard928

Use an impact gun. I have a 550 ft lbs 1/2" drive gun which works nice.
Sometimes it takes a bit, but they always come off. I also got a 3/4" T bar with the right socket for popping them and the crank bolt off. Havent broken one yet.

Bill Ball

You broke a lot of bits before you went to 3/4" drive.

This inexpensive Harbor Freight set has proven to be able to take a beating.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5494

WallyP

Rear axle nut tightening spec is 339 lb/ft - I promise you that it takes more than that to loosen it.

NoVector

I should have mentioned that I also have an impact wrench and I did try that for a while. I only have a 2hp/4 gal "pancake" compressor--but after about 10 minutes of scrweing around, it wasn't getting me anywhere.

Funny, but after using 3/4" tools, my testosterone level felt higher

Gregg K

I love your persistence. That really is a nice collection of broken tools.

NoVector

Myles - Great, thank you! Of all the tools I could ever justify purchasing, a 250 lbs torque wrench just isn't one of them. Thanks again / Bruce

Dave928S

Absolutely !!

I used a 5 foot bar and bent that!!! ... then an impact gun with a 3/4 impact socket got them undone first time.

jpitman2

Use the car's weight. Fit a wrench on the nut (shortest possible extension), and jack the end of the arm - will loosen off softly. You may need to roll the car or reposition the socket to get leverage again if the first losening doesnt get it loos enough for hand work.
Tighetning is of course a different thing.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k BTDT

blown 87

I am not a fan of using a impact on a bearing nut.

Get the right tools for the job, both off and on.

NoVector

Thanks, Bill. That is an excellent price! It's about exactly what I paid at Northern Tool for just the ratchet and socket--doh!

terry gt

I used a 3/4 impact gun , And a impact socket. Works on the crank pully as well , no sweat no blood .