Empty shell to finished car
#737
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip,
The nuts will be changed out to locking nuts/or a locking washer will be used once the standoffs are installed. Current install is a temporary one to make sure removal in place is possible.
Cheers!
Carl
The nuts will be changed out to locking nuts/or a locking washer will be used once the standoffs are installed. Current install is a temporary one to make sure removal in place is possible.
Cheers!
Carl
#738
Where is the thread on the three *****?
#739
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#740
#741
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mockup LCD test fitment
So in order to get an accurate idea of fitting the LCD digital dash, I made a 3D model and had it 3D printed. Rough picture shows the display area available. The currently open areas between the housing and display will be closed off in the next step. Then on to fabricating a modified housing that can be scanned and then printed.
To put it in perspective, the available display area is able to fit the digidash ('89-up) instrument layout in a 1:1 ratio up to, and including the volt meter, coolant temp, oil pressure and fuel level indicators. The perimeter warning lights outside of those indicators do not fit in the available area, which is of no importance for this project, as the layout will be completely different and warning lights can be programmed to appear in a more centered location to the driver.
Also fitted the main engine bay connection point, with the connection on the left side complete (jump post supply, and two supplies for the interior). Top right is the main lead from the battery, currently going straight from battery to this point for testing. Once engine is in, this will be the battery supply via the starter connection point.
Cheers!
Carl
To put it in perspective, the available display area is able to fit the digidash ('89-up) instrument layout in a 1:1 ratio up to, and including the volt meter, coolant temp, oil pressure and fuel level indicators. The perimeter warning lights outside of those indicators do not fit in the available area, which is of no importance for this project, as the layout will be completely different and warning lights can be programmed to appear in a more centered location to the driver.
Also fitted the main engine bay connection point, with the connection on the left side complete (jump post supply, and two supplies for the interior). Top right is the main lead from the battery, currently going straight from battery to this point for testing. Once engine is in, this will be the battery supply via the starter connection point.
Cheers!
Carl
#747
My firewall covering failed with no heat every being applied to it. Just bad glue and probably my own failure at preparing the substrate. What did you use use again? Wasn't it a pretty thick aluminum shell with some insulation and adhesive backing?
#749
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks gentlemen,
Slowly chipping away at it, and there IS a light at the end of the tunnel
Trey, thanks and same to you. Looks like Jax is finally getting hit
BC,
Got the firewall shield from www.designengineering.com (DEI)
Very sticky and strong adhesive. Works great.
Thanks Tony!
A little sooner than that I would suspect
Slowly chipping away at it, and there IS a light at the end of the tunnel
Trey, thanks and same to you. Looks like Jax is finally getting hit
BC,
Got the firewall shield from www.designengineering.com (DEI)
Very sticky and strong adhesive. Works great.
Thanks Tony!
A little sooner than that I would suspect
#750
Your work is just amazing and inspiring. I've wanted to do a restomod on a 928 for years, and I just happened to get a hold of a 1979 928 which I think will be a good car for it. Your posts have definitely given me a lot of ideas for my own car.
Have you run into any unusual electrical devices in the car? I saw you had some issues with the wiper motor but it seems like the rest of the systems just basic switched/PWM?
The reason I ask is because I'm going to look at replacing the electrical system in the car as well but the InfinityBox system is way too expensive for me. I'm fairly confident I can make something just as capable on my own for cheaper but before I put my 928 in storage for the winter, I want to pull a few of the electrical components so I can get them figured out for the summer. It would be good to know if there are any devices in particular I should pull.
Also - the LCD display will look amazing. I'd love to get more details on what you're planning for that. What are you looking at for the software/computer to run the display?
Have you run into any unusual electrical devices in the car? I saw you had some issues with the wiper motor but it seems like the rest of the systems just basic switched/PWM?
The reason I ask is because I'm going to look at replacing the electrical system in the car as well but the InfinityBox system is way too expensive for me. I'm fairly confident I can make something just as capable on my own for cheaper but before I put my 928 in storage for the winter, I want to pull a few of the electrical components so I can get them figured out for the summer. It would be good to know if there are any devices in particular I should pull.
Also - the LCD display will look amazing. I'd love to get more details on what you're planning for that. What are you looking at for the software/computer to run the display?