Easier way to cleaning the block?
#1
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Easier way to cleaning the block?
I'm cleaning the block with a brille pad, but it's taking for bloody ever! Anyone have a cheap, easier idea?
#2
Administrator - "Tyson"
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For about $70-$100 my local machine shop does a chemical clean, just make sure they know it's aluminum.
Last set of heads I sent them came back looking new. I dropped off the head fully disassembled and they also cleaned up the valves.
Last set of heads I sent them came back looking new. I dropped off the head fully disassembled and they also cleaned up the valves.
#3
Drifting
I would use a tooth brush with a spray bottle of water-based citric surfactant/degreaser. Follow with a flush of clean water from another spray bottle.
Collect the waste using a plastic drap under the engine and container below that. Then dispose of the liquid waste down the sewer drain where it should be fully digested by the local waste treatment plant.
Spray any shafts or shaft seals with a water displacing lubricant such as WD40.
Collect the waste using a plastic drap under the engine and container below that. Then dispose of the liquid waste down the sewer drain where it should be fully digested by the local waste treatment plant.
Spray any shafts or shaft seals with a water displacing lubricant such as WD40.
#4
Nordschleife Master
I've done the "hot tank" as HP suggests. Good results, for sure.
I've also just dived in with Scotchgard pads and home-made "gunk." That's one part laundry detergent, three parts paint thinner and one part water. Stick a big tray underneath (cement tub?) and start scrubbing. Rinse with water and finish with a wipe-down on lacquer thinner. Most of the dirt on the outside will come easily.
I've also just dived in with Scotchgard pads and home-made "gunk." That's one part laundry detergent, three parts paint thinner and one part water. Stick a big tray underneath (cement tub?) and start scrubbing. Rinse with water and finish with a wipe-down on lacquer thinner. Most of the dirt on the outside will come easily.
#5
Almost Deleted
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I've done the "hot tank" as HP suggests. Good results, for sure.
I've also just dived in with Scotchgard pads and home-made "gunk." That's one part laundry detergent, three parts paint thinner and one part water. Stick a big tray underneath (cement tub?) and start scrubbing. Rinse with water and finish with a wipe-down on lacquer thinner. Most of the dirt on the outside will come easily.
I've also just dived in with Scotchgard pads and home-made "gunk." That's one part laundry detergent, three parts paint thinner and one part water. Stick a big tray underneath (cement tub?) and start scrubbing. Rinse with water and finish with a wipe-down on lacquer thinner. Most of the dirt on the outside will come easily.
#6
Rennlist Member
I can immagine situations where you do not fully disassamble the engine but want to give it that new shiny look while you have it out of the car. How to do that? I have the same situation with the gearbox. So far it has a clean grey look but really want it to shine, but without disassembling it before putting it in the hot tank.
#7
Three Wheelin'
I used this stuff, they come in rectangular containers, and I have only seen them in car quest, Don't buy the one in a cylindrical 1 gallon container, its weaker stuff.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Port...RT/0901-LA.pdf
You need to shake it good before you use it, I applied it to my block and then washed it off with water. this stuff is very strong, melts plastic and leaves your hand very dry if you dont use gloves, it also removes paint. Very good in removing carbon.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Port...RT/0901-LA.pdf
You need to shake it good before you use it, I applied it to my block and then washed it off with water. this stuff is very strong, melts plastic and leaves your hand very dry if you dont use gloves, it also removes paint. Very good in removing carbon.
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#8
Drifting
It's cheap and works very well.