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As I begin the engine assembly process have to clean the various bits that came off that were covered on crud. I think I need to get one of the parts washers from Harbor Freight but what cleaning solution do people like to use?
The block and girdle were tanked so these are prepped and the oil pan is done but I still have everything else. Currently I'm cleaning the oil pump mainly using WD40, parts cleaner, and a brush.
There are several ways to go with the parts cleaner business. You can use a water based solution, using Castrol Super clean or Purple power or Simple green. I used Purple power in a tub and used a brush and a green scrubbie on some parts. Cover the tub when not in use. I just threw the parts in overnight and let them soak. Be careful with aluminum in the Castrol or Purple power. Those products are lye-based and it will attack the aluminum. Wear gloves when when washing the parts as it will remove skin oils if you don't.
A lot of guys use diesel fuel as a solvent to wash their parts if you want a petroleum based solvent. I used to use naptha,( a long time ago) and it was great, but you can't hardly get it any longer because it's carcinogenic. If you want to go with the big buck you can subscribe for the Kleen Right services, and others, but it's quite expensive for small quantities. Just my .02 cents worth. Thanks.
I use the carb cleaner in the 1 gallon can (comes with a soaking basket).
I put the parts on oil absorbent pads to reduce the mess and just periodically soak the parts by painting them with the cleaner and a cheap paint brush.
Kept wet for a day.....just pressure wash and you're good to go.
On aluminum bits like a-arms, crossmember, balance covers, etc. I do two more steps after they are clean.
I wet them with a spray bottle of aluma brite which is a weakened phosphoric and sulfuric acid.
This cleans any residual oils and solvents out of the open pores of the aluminum.
I follow this (on engine parts) with a quick soft brush with dish washing liquid and water rinse.
Lastly, I'll hang them until dry and put 1-2 coats of high temp clear.
This seals the aluminum and makes parts easier to wipe clean in the event you are searching for an oil leak later, etc. Basically, nothing sticks to them anymore so a quick soap and water rinse cleans the whole engine/suspension easily.
Get a parts washer from Safety-Kleen. For about $400, you can get a Model 16 wash station which captures dirt in a recirculating solvent system. The solvent does a great job cutting through oil, varnish, gunk of all kinds. Best part of the thing is that they'll come and swap the solvent drum for you. Smells less than paint thinner or other volatiles you buy at a hardware store, probably less dangerous to breath, and almost certainly better for the environment.
The alternative that works for other situations, like in-car engine degreasing, is a citrus degreaser. I like Zep's Big Orange, which comes in a gallon container and I use in a metal spray pump. This is a very different product than you'll find at your local hardware store. Similar to Wurth Citrus Degreaser but reasonably priced (versus Wurth being silly expensive). Strong stuff.
Convenience is a huge factor for me. Being able to toss parts in the washer as they come off, then quickly get 'em clean is important. You'll need to use some elbow grease to agitate heavy crud where it exists, and will benefit from an assortment of brushes in different sizes and shapes.
+1 for Simple Green, but only if the parts don't have a machined face that needs to meet a tolerance (e.g. bores, journals, sealing faces for engine parts) because SG can corrode/pit aluminum if exposed for too long. For non-critical items like engine uprights and brackets, they'll look as good as new after soaking overnight. People will tell you it will destroy aluminum but that's not really true unless you leave it in there for crazy amounts of time, I've found. Definitely don't use it for cleaning cadmium hardware, it will dissolve it off, see above warning.
For the more critical engine parts, brake cleaner is usually my go-to... but it's (relatively) expensive, at about $5/can in my area. Another safe option is Fabuloso, but it's not as powerful as Simple Green.
I've found that Zep Fast 505 industrial cleaner does a great job on metal parts (and hard plastic) that are covered with oil, grease... Not sure what's in it, but works great. Can be found at either Home Depot or Lowes (I forget which).
I have about 10-15 gallons of bad gasoline from project cars. This works great as a parts cleaner (not as great as purpose-made solvents, but it is quite effective, non-corrosive, and free).
People have told me diesel works better. I tried it, and didn't see how it was better. But since the oil-soaked parts are always easier to clean than the dry parts, and diesel is similar to oil, I think soaking parts in diesel for a long time could work quite well.
But the bottom line is, after spending countless hours with the tub of gas and the brush, I'm sick of it and I'm taking my parts to a place with a parts washer from now on!
I followed Michaels lead. Fabuloso and simple green. Got the idea from his rebuild thread. It takes a little work, but it's so much better than gas or harsh chemicals. It just happened the SO likes Fabuloso, so I just stole hers. Win/win. Lol. And lavender smells so much better than gas or brake cleaner.
I got my oil cooler almost totally clean with a bucket of the stuff, a no scratch scotch bright pad and assorted brushes. Took about 30 mins maybe.
On the intake and cam tower I used the simple green before painting. That worked well too. Best part is, neither will kill you, and a nice plus is it wont harm anything else either. My brain cells took enough abuse in my teens and twenty's. Lol
But for the really big stuff, I'm thinking taking them somewhere with a tank. We'll see when I get there. It is kinda fun to do it yourself.
I'm liking the clear coat idea. Think I'm going to try that. Good thread, I asked the same thing on one of my threads, but didn't get much feedback. But mine was more about mating surfaces I asked about directly. I'm now going to use my no scratch pads and Fabuloso. I didn't know simple green would pit aluminium.
I ended up getting the small 2.5L Ultrasonic parts cleaner from Harbor Freight.
It's just big enough for most of the smaller bits or you just rotate it and go in stages. I started with soap/water then tried some purple I had left. Moving to Green next.
The inside of this was nasty black when I started. A couple baths later...
Guys..just a head's up on using gas as a solvent. DON'T DO IT! The vapors from it are what will kill you or put you in a burn intensive care ward for a Loooong time. I have seen garages blown up, people cremated and a lot of nasty stuff just because of gasoline VAPORS. My neighbor was burning leaves in a masonry Pit Bar-B-Q one spring afternoon. A 1 gallon can of gas sat about 25 yards away, uncapped. The vapors ignited the can and blew it about 35 feet in the air. Sounded just like ordanance. He was lucky because the fumes hadn't gotten into his clothing. PLease be careful with that stuff..It can hurt you BAD! I used to work in a burn intensive care unit as well as the Medical Examiner's office..Please take me SERIOUSLY about this!
Guys..just a head's up on using gas as a solvent. DON'T DO IT!
My grandfather used gas and a nylon brush to clean some tractor parts about 40 years ago. The brush built up a static charge, sparked, the gas went off and he ended up with 3rd degree burns from his hand to shoulder. It would have been a lot worse if he hadn't fallen on the ground and rolled right away. As it was his arm was in a cast for about 6 months.
04-20-2016, 07:52 AM
Parts Cleaning (oil and gunk) - Your method?
