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May as well let the cat out of bag (although the cat has been replaced with a resonator)... it's going to be fed 7-9psi from an Eaton blower on E85. I know people haven't had great luck in the past with supercharging 8v 944s but I think with the right prep and tune, it'll be ok. If it blows up, then it blows up
Bought 2.5 gals of Purple Power on my lunch break. I've read the warnings about chemical reactions with aluminum so I'm going to be careful. Every group of fasteners is going into labeled sandwich bags, and will be cleaned too.
May as well let the cat out of bag (although the cat has been replaced with a resonator)... it's going to be fed 7-9psi from an Eaton blower on E85. I know people haven't had great luck in the past with supercharging 8v 944s but I think with the right prep and tune, it'll be ok. If it blows up, then it blows up
Bought 2.5 gals of Purple Power on my lunch break. I've read the warnings about chemical reactions with aluminum so I'm going to be careful. Every group of fasteners is going into labeled sandwich bags, and will be cleaned too.
Ok, noted, thanks. I'll get some Fabuloso or whatever that apple juice looking stuff is I always see in the cleaning section. I had read that PP could be caustic but seems like tons of people get away with it 4:1 dilution and brief exposure. I want to do this right though.
Ok, the Fabuloso actually works way better than I thought it would and it has a pH of 7. Got a big jug and started soaking parts.
Here are the trial run small parts (sitting on top of the filthy cam tower); this is how clean I want everything to be. Not going Crazy Eddie but this motor is cleaning up pretty nicely.
Waiting on a long 6mm allen socket in the mail to remove the last 4 internal cam tower bolts, the only thing available locally is one with a ball-end. Used that on Doug's cam tower and the ball broke off... whoops. I cut off the ball on the one I have and filed it, but it's not a great fit and almost stripped one of them even after hammering it in.
The craziest thing I'm doing on mine is putting 88 pistons in it, and maybe MAYBE a slight shave of the head. Without a knock sensor, scared of pinging. Best of luck! Looking like it's coming along great!
The craziest thing I'm doing on mine is putting 88 pistons in it, and maybe MAYBE a slight shave of the head. Without a knock sensor, scared of pinging. Best of luck! Looking like it's coming along great!
Thanks! I'm going to drill and tap the boss where the factory 951 knock sensor is and install one - with the addition of a programmable interpreter ($60) this ECU can see a knock signal and pull timing as needed. It'll be on E85 though so I'm not too worried about it.
What I am worried about is....
There was more in the oil pan, everything covered in sludge with the consistency of Hersheys syrup. It's steel, maybe bearing material? Won't know until I take the rest of the rotating assembly apart.
Also...did early NA cars come with a factory oil pan baffle?? This pan has a plastic one that looks like a 951 baffle. I'm 99% positive it's the original oil pan and it is not a 951 oil pan. EDIT: I checked the PET and it's factory, p/n 944 107 389 01
Ugh. So it suffered from milkshake (coolant oil mixing) and probably the person didn't know and kept driving. It then took out the rod bearings and then that's when the car was parked. You're going to have to be careful cleaning this engine thoroughly including all the oil galleys. There could be little pieces everywhere. The crank is probably toast where the rod bearing(s) failed. The mains might have suffered damage also depending how long it was driven in this condition, but you'll have to change all that anyway. I think the FSM covers all what you have to do for this condition.
That's certainly what it looks like. Tonight I should have time to remove the girdle, crank, and rods/pistons and see what I have to work with. As long as the bores are ok....if they're badly scored I'm going to part this short block and start with a different one.
Following up, the main bearings and rod bearings look like new...at least the crank is in great shape. If anything the #4 rod bearing is the most worn, and even then, it's still far from out of spec. Weird, I'll keep digging.
The craziest thing I'm doing on mine is putting 88 pistons in it, and maybe MAYBE a slight shave of the head. Without a knock sensor, scared of pinging. Best of luck! Looking like it's coming along great!
I wouldn't shave the head unless you need too, leave that meat for a moment when you need it. The extra compression just is not worth it.
Thankfully the bores are in top shape on this motor... leaving me thinking that those metal chunks are probably from the oil pump. Waiting on borrowing or buying an impact so I can get off the crank bolt, I keep breaking **** when I try and do it with bracing and hand tools.
Check out all the muck inside the water jacket, that's all oatmeal-like coolant/oil precipitate. Also, the head gasket was a brittle sheet of hopes and dreams. Crumbled like a wafer when I applied finger pressure to it.
Also...my oil pickup has a nick in it, as you can kind of see above. It's not super deep, but does that make it garbage? It's not all the way through but maybe could act as a stress concentration point for a future crack. I know new ones are $110 but wanted to reuse this one if possible (40k miles)
Dear Michael: I hope that you still have the external gripper socket for the cam tower bolts, or did that one self-destruct too? Still have mine to loan you if you strip out the hex drive. As far as the blower compression ratio's go, don't shave the head..and you might want to consider a cometic gasket to help LOWER the C/R. If you need more power with the Eaton, just screw down the pop off valve like the turbo boys do.
02-08-2016, 05:36 PM
