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Spring rate help

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Old 07-31-2015, 09:16 AM
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nosubt2
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Default Spring rate help

I have a full race suspension, torsion bar delete suspension on my 944T S. I believe it to be 700# front, 1200# rear. I want to start driving it on the street.
Need suggestions on what springs to put on car to make it street able.
Anyone have a torsion bar delete running on the street?
What springs are u using?
Mak
Old 07-31-2015, 09:47 AM
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Van
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Maybe 200/400?
Old 07-31-2015, 11:15 AM
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Butters944
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I will attest that 200# in front is a great number, it's what I'm running on my daily driven 83. No torsion delete for me (yet), but I've done some serious forum digging on it over the years. There's some formula somewhere, I would pick a front rate, then calculate what rear rate would make the effective rates equivalent. Van's probably correct. Or maybe 500# rear with 200# front.

Maybe this thread will help.

Edit: Maybe someone can confirm, looks like the formula is:
WheelRate(rear)= SpringRate*0.42
WheelRate(front)=SpringRate*0.94
Old 07-31-2015, 11:55 AM
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V2Rocket
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Originally Posted by Butters944
I will attest that 200# in front is a great number, it's what I'm running on my daily driven 83. No torsion delete for me (yet), but I've done some serious forum digging on it over the years. There's some formula somewhere, I would pick a front rate, then calculate what rear rate would make the effective rates equivalent. Van's probably correct. Or maybe 500# rear with 200# front.

Maybe this thread will help.

Edit: Maybe someone can confirm, looks like the formula is:
Rear effective/wheel rate is ~about~ half the advertised spring rate. This is due to the angle(s) at which the coilover is installed at relative to the wheel center. I've seen values from 944 guys from 0.42-0.55 depending on their math.

To the OP, are you converting your track car to a street car, or is it dual-duty now? Full-street you would want much softer springs, mixed-use could be tolerable to go higher. Van's idea of 200/400 sounds pretty good to me if full-street, you might get away with 250/500. If dual-use, then split the difference, maybe 400/800?

To Butters...I'm going to go out there and say that there's no point in doing a coilover conversion/torsion bar delete unless you are looking for spring rates over 350lb/in. The job of removing the torsion bars is nearly the same as installing larger bars, but at less cost than a coilover setup would run.

I have 26mm bars (~190lb/in) to complement my 200lb/in front springs and they cost about $150 shipped, brand new from the vendor, for the pair. The price is the same from this vendor up to 28mm/~250lb/in. Larger bars from other suppliers might run you up to $300/pair, at which point you're still pretty well ahead of even a budget coilover setup.
Old 07-31-2015, 12:09 PM
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Shocks - what's the valving? If they were properly matched to the 700/1200 setup, going to pretty heavily damped for the street unless they have a high range of adjustment (compr and rebound).
Old 07-31-2015, 05:16 PM
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Butters944
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
To Butters...I'm going to go out there and say that there's no point in doing a coilover conversion/torsion bar delete unless you are looking for spring rates over 350lb/in. The job of removing the torsion bars is nearly the same as installing larger bars, but at less cost than a coilover setup would run.
I have a custom fabbed torsion bar delete carrier with heim joints off sausagehackers car I plan on using. With coilovers I'll be able to just swap out springs if I want to change rates, or easily spin a perch to adjust ride height. If I decide to go race-car down the road, converting the suspension will take minutes.



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