Race car?
#16
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Well I can tell you that a $3k budget to build the car isn't going to come close. Again, it depends on whether or not you are doing 100% of your own work or not as well. For instance, clutch and timing belt/waterpump at a shop just ate your $3k. And you haven't touched refreshing the suspension, bushings, brakes, wheel bearings, axles, ball joints, and whatever else items may need attention. $3k in parts and doing your all your own work seems a little more reasonable into getting a 25 year old car HPDE ready (and i'm not talking built race car ready).
It is always cheaper to buy a built race car than to build one yourself. Race cars always sell for pennies on the dollar spent building them.
It is always cheaper to buy a built race car than to build one yourself. Race cars always sell for pennies on the dollar spent building them.
#17
Drifting
Like Doc says ...
I paid 9K for my car which had two PO's and i still ended up investing another 6K last season to bring it up to my standards.The previous owner told me he was into the car for 30K,the engine build sheet alone was 13K from RPM ...
Spend the money up front for somebody else's work,it will save you a lot of $$$,time and aggravation !
Cheers
Phil
I paid 9K for my car which had two PO's and i still ended up investing another 6K last season to bring it up to my standards.The previous owner told me he was into the car for 30K,the engine build sheet alone was 13K from RPM ...
Spend the money up front for somebody else's work,it will save you a lot of $$$,time and aggravation !
Cheers
Phil
#18
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Well I can tell you that a $3k budget to build the car isn't going to come close. Again, it depends on whether or not you are doing 100% of your own work or not as well. For instance, clutch and timing belt/waterpump at a shop just ate your $3k. And you haven't touched refreshing the suspension, bushings, brakes, wheel bearings, axles, ball joints, and whatever else items may need attention. $3k in parts and doing your all your own work seems a little more reasonable into getting a 25 year old car HPDE ready (and i'm not talking built race car ready).
It is always cheaper to buy a built race car than to build one yourself. Race cars always sell for pennies on the dollar spent building them.
It is always cheaper to buy a built race car than to build one yourself. Race cars always sell for pennies on the dollar spent building them.
#19
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Like Doc says ...
I paid 9K for my car which had two PO's and i still ended up investing another 6K last season to bring it up to my standards.The previous owner told me he was into the car for 30K,the engine build sheet alone was 13K from RPM ...
Spend the money up front for somebody else's work,it will save you a lot of $$$,time and aggravation !
Cheers
Phil
I paid 9K for my car which had two PO's and i still ended up investing another 6K last season to bring it up to my standards.The previous owner told me he was into the car for 30K,the engine build sheet alone was 13K from RPM ...
Spend the money up front for somebody else's work,it will save you a lot of $$$,time and aggravation !
Cheers
Phil
#20
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Well, I'm going to have to change my advice. You can't buy anything for 3K that won't need that and more to get it up to snuff. Been there done that. Loosing an entire weekend of fees when your car craps out in the first run session is no fun. Been there done that too. Just run your 996 for the first year and get your feet wet. It is a wonderful car to track. Knock on wood but it is very rare for someone in the beginners groups at PCA DEs to do serious damage (or any damage at all) to their cars. They don't tell you this when you show up but the instructors are all indoctrinated pretty heavily towards protecting the customer and his equipment at all costs. Get track insurance if you don't like the financial risk. Once you get hooked on "track crack" then lets talk again. Oh, I personally would invest in one of those head/neck restraints that doesn't require a full harness. I can't remember what they're called but the usuals will be able to fix you up. Lots of guys drive their street cars to DEs, have a great time, and drive home. It's still miles more fun and safer than doing it on the public highways.
#21
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Well, I'm going to have to change my advice. You can't buy anything for 3K that won't need that and more to get it up to snuff. Been there done that. Loosing an entire weekend of fees when your car craps out in the first run session is no fun. Been there done that too. Just run your 996 for the first year and get your feet wet. It is a wonderful car to track. Knock on wood but it is very rare for someone in the beginners groups at PCA DEs to do serious damage (or any damage at all) to their cars. They don't tell you this when you show up but the instructors are all indoctrinated pretty heavily towards protecting the customer and his equipment at all costs. Get track insurance if you don't like the financial risk. Once you get hooked on "track crack" then lets talk again. Oh, I personally would invest in one of those head/neck restraints that doesn't require a full harness. I can't remember what they're called but the usuals will be able to fix you up. Lots of guys drive their street cars to DEs, have a great time, and drive home. It's still miles more fun and safer than doing it on the public highways.
This is good advice, especially about just getting HPDE insurance. That way you can get your feet wet, and get a better idea of if you want to continue DE, move into racing, etc. This will allow you to better pick a car to accomplish your goals once you have a better idea of what they are.
#22
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More info on 944 control arms: https://www.facebook.com/highstrung44#
Race ready 944 for sale: http://forum.44cup.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2480
#23
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Ball joints are the issue with the aluminum arms. Porsche does not recommend replacing worn ball joints, but rather buy a new arm. Very unsafe to use an aluminum arm with a rebuilt ball joint kit on track. Have seen many failures, and typically very soon after rebuild.