no oil press on start up solved
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greenville New York
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no oil press on start up solved
Last year I was having no press on start up. Sometimes 3 seconds, sometimes as much as 20 seconds.BTW, car is track duty only. After checking all the advice on this forum I came across some debris in the bore of the OPRV. Put everything back together and has been great until a month ago. Started up and no press again, lifters clacking away as proof of the gauge indication. After 15 terrifying seconds it pumped up. Did it again when I got home. Pulled the OPRV and sure enough some crap in the bore and the piston of the 3 piece valve had some score markes. pulled out the debris out with my gun cleaning rod and pollished the piston smooth. Started it up and have oil press right away.
I believe the debris is excess sealant (brown) from around the lower crankcase. Is this an unusual problem? I think I should do a teardown,thorough cleaning and reseal over the winter to properly fix this issue.
Anyone else run into this? Would it be worth updating to the one piece OPRV? Any other thoughts. Thanks, Kevin
I believe the debris is excess sealant (brown) from around the lower crankcase. Is this an unusual problem? I think I should do a teardown,thorough cleaning and reseal over the winter to properly fix this issue.
Anyone else run into this? Would it be worth updating to the one piece OPRV? Any other thoughts. Thanks, Kevin
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greenville New York
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have read and tried over filling the crankcase to check for a cracked tube. If you haven't tried it yet, about 3 to 4 quarts is what I did. But dont run it like that for too long, just to confirm press then dump.
#4
Rennlist Member
Hey Kevin,
If I recall from a previous thread, the thinking was that the excess Locktite 546 disolves when exposed to oil. This would neatly solve the concern that you have that hardened Locktite (which is indeed brown) is sluffing off and finding its way to your OPRV. On the other hand, the Porsche shop manual suggests you put on a thin coat when prepping the girdle and oil pump surfaces. In other words, don't overdo it.
In previous threads some have mentioned a concern with the shelf life of the Locktite. I would agree that is a concern and it may be that Locktite that has aged out (or been exposed to excessive temps, see below) may not dissolve and/or behave as desired.
Referring to the Tech Sheet for Locktite 546 here:
http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf
The Tech Sheet specifies limits on storage temperatures for the product:
"Storage below 8 °C or greater than 28 °C can adversely affect product properties."
That works out to a range of 46 deg F to 82 deg F! Really? I can imagine that some of this product sees temps well above/below those numbers during shipping or storage in warehouses.
So for a track car, where issues at the track can and will ruin your weekend, it might be a good plan to break down the engine, clean out the oil passageways, and seal the girdle and oil pump as precisely as possible.
If I recall from a previous thread, the thinking was that the excess Locktite 546 disolves when exposed to oil. This would neatly solve the concern that you have that hardened Locktite (which is indeed brown) is sluffing off and finding its way to your OPRV. On the other hand, the Porsche shop manual suggests you put on a thin coat when prepping the girdle and oil pump surfaces. In other words, don't overdo it.
In previous threads some have mentioned a concern with the shelf life of the Locktite. I would agree that is a concern and it may be that Locktite that has aged out (or been exposed to excessive temps, see below) may not dissolve and/or behave as desired.
Referring to the Tech Sheet for Locktite 546 here:
http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf
The Tech Sheet specifies limits on storage temperatures for the product:
"Storage below 8 °C or greater than 28 °C can adversely affect product properties."
That works out to a range of 46 deg F to 82 deg F! Really? I can imagine that some of this product sees temps well above/below those numbers during shipping or storage in warehouses.
So for a track car, where issues at the track can and will ruin your weekend, it might be a good plan to break down the engine, clean out the oil passageways, and seal the girdle and oil pump as precisely as possible.
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Take a piece of that debris and put it in some Seafoam in a bottle cap to see if it dissolves/liquifies.
If so, run Seafoam in your motor oil to liquify and flush out the crap in the crankcase. I'm not an avid user of Seafoam; read other threads and the print on the can for instructions.
If so, run Seafoam in your motor oil to liquify and flush out the crap in the crankcase. I'm not an avid user of Seafoam; read other threads and the print on the can for instructions.