yorkee

I have replaced the waterpump, belts, rollers, front seals recently. However, my car is running hotter than normal. Its okay on highway crusing at 70mph, but as soon as I exit the highway, the fan start. The gauge will be a bit over the middle. I vent the cooling system correctly, what else could go wrong?

Reimu

Chances are you still have air in the coolant. It can be annoying sometimes.

16valver

Check and re-check that ALL your hose clamps are tight. The smallest leak will cause the system to not obtain the proper pressure and it will not function properly.

Air in the coolant is the next step. Get the front in the air, hit the bleed valve until a solid flow comes out. go up and down your bumpy *** driveway a few times, put the car back in the air, hit the bleed valve again, go drive the F out of it, hit the bleed valve again. Gotta get all those air bubbles to the high point or else bleeding won't do jack.

John_AZ

Did you use the correct thermostat and seal ----for the new updated waterpump?
Was the thermostat temp the same as removed?

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-08.htm

Did you have the 4.5mm gap? If so you would have used the 2.5mm thermostat seal ---NO support washer is used.

The radiator fan switch should also be changed.

Check the hose clamps for snugness--especially the top of the radiator big hose.

GL
J_AZ

Chunkerz

Remove the coolant tank cap, pinch off the overflow tube, stuff rags all around the water neck/bleed valve, crack the bleeder, fill the tank to the brim, make a tight seal between your face and the tank, and blow into the tank until nothing but coolant comes out the bleeder. Make sure you add coolant when the level gets low or else you'll just be blowing more air into the system. This got all of the air out on the first try for me without endless trips around the block and hot coolant spewing all over my hands.

F40LM

Ditto, sometimes it seems like you have to 'hold your mouth just right' to get all the air out. Until you do, you will have overheating issues.

yorkee

Thanks for everyone's response.

I don't see any water leaking out from any joints I moved. It should be good.
Will try bleeding again..



I am using an updated pump. It has 4.5mm gap. I am using the skinny thermostat seal. But that shouldn't matter because coolant should flow through the opening instead of the edge, right?

If the fan turn on, the fan switch is working properly as well?




I tried that... tape the overflow opening, blow from the coolant tank, I am not able to blow water out. I am not pushing anything, I feel like blowing into a concealed box. Looks like I need bigger pair of lung...


I also open up the bleeder valve, inject coolant into it to fill it up. But it still running hotter than normal. Any thought? Should I run 5 miles per day for couple weeks to increase my lung capacity before proceed?

goatfarmerdave

My friends and I have always had this issue with our 944s.We are under the belief that they always run this way.Perfectly fine cruising but as soon as you idle for a bit the temp rises almost to 3 quarters and then the fans kick in and bring it down to half.Pretty sure this is the norm.I'm not sure if this is the exact issue you are talking about,but if it is...I'm pretty sure that's the norm and there is nothing to worry about.By the way,we all have the neweststyle waterpumps and thermostats..the cars just run warm.

John_AZ

The fan switch contacts will arch, burn and pit.
I change the fan switch when I do the thermostat.

If you got a "kit" from 944Online, you probably got the OEM 80*C thermostat and should use the 75*C fan switch (77*C-82*C)

J_AZ

Cyberpunky

make sure you have heater on when bleeding.

Goatfarmer dave. When I got my car it never went more than a few mm above second mark no matter how hot the day or how hard it was driven, so I don't think they should run warm if all is well with cooling system. I have since hit a fox which has led to a lot of issues including blown turbo and cooling system problems, so I am still trying to get it all working as before . I know it should all run without having to look at temp gauge constantly and that is what I am aiming for