Yummybud924

some may remember my post from post from january when I had to put a new torque tube and clutch in my car then few week later the oprv bushing inside the block came loose and while idling in my garage there was zero oil pressure and the car I think ran for like 5-10 minutes at idle with zero oil pressure. anyways I change the oil right afte rfixed the oil pressure relief valve and since then put about 4000 km on the car.

now today I go and buy some mobil one 15w50 like usual, do my usual oil change and drain the oil and it looks find until I pour all the oil from the drain pan and the plastic drain pan looks like its filled with metal shavings, like tiny dots no chunks or anything but I have a fumoco drain valve so maybe they can't all get through.

my engine isnt knocking or anything and oil pressure is good now, idles at 5 bar when cold drops to min 2 bar when hot at idle and 4 bar min when reved.

okay anyways i'm sure this stuff is metal shavings but its weird in the oil it looks like copper dots but when I put it on my finger and shine a bright light on it it looks green and I also found what looks like a green rock in the drain pan like a green pebble weird. but I'm still certain this is all metal shavings its a lot.

I took a fridge magnet that is not very powerfull and I put it in the pan and I have some things sticking ot it but not much it isn't really grabbing all of them and it does pick up pennies.

can the stuff that kind of looks green when on my finger still be metal shaving?

man i'm depressed now my last semester of university is this september and I now probably won't have a car until I graduate in december then I will have time for a rebuild or to buy another car.

i'm thinking of buying a used engine and rebuilding it, new bearings gaskets everything. I see used engines sometimes for 500-700 bucks. and probably a 1000-1500 in rebuild parts? and tons of time to do it.

replacing an engine looks like a pain though i'll also need to by a hoist.. great.



i'm thinking of just driving the car until it blows up I guess or spins a bearing or whatever. maybe I'll get lucky and it will go another 4000 kms until I graduate in december?

I had an appointment at a shop to change my timing belt stud on tuesday and to retension my timing belt but I'm not going to to that anymore considering my engine is probably toast now.

joonas

Was there something stuck to the drain bolt magnet?
If you know you have a broblem then the biggest mistake would be ignoring it.
I think you could get your oil analyzed blackstone labs or something.

Yummybud924

well what else can I do?

I start school in 4 weeks and got zero time then to work on the car and need to drive so i'm thinking of driivng it till the engine blows then getting a new used engine.

if its just a road bearing gone bad is it easy to just drop the pan and replace the bearing?

I don't know how easy it is to replace bearings. I dropped my pan before.

is it something you can do in a weekend?

Yummybud924

I don't have a magnetic drain plug anymore I have a fomuku drain valve installed for easier oil changes so I just open the valve and drain the oil.

joonas

Do you have factory manuals?
For rod bearing change you need new rod bearings, connecting rod nuts and gaskets.

You need the torque wrench to tighten the connecting rod nuts. Rod bearing replacement is small work compared to work needed to take the oil pan off.

If you blow the engine you damage the crank and at least one connectig rod. Metal pieces can damage the cylinder walls and engine block is scrap metal.

Yummybud924

yeah I know but problem is this is my daily ride and I start school in less than 4 weeks so Iwon't have much time until then to get it fixed myself I also work pretty much everyday right now.

getting the crossmember off I remember is a real bitch and then getting the engine to fit back on to the motor mounts is also a real pain I had to use pry bars and took me a whole day the last time.



are installing new bearings is it just straight foward taking the old bearings out and putting new ones in? or can I screw it up?

does anything have to come out before teh bearings can be replace?

also what is the diff between main bearings and rod bearing and do I need to replace both?

thanks.

Yummybud924

think i'll drive it to work tom but then tear it apart when I come.


do I just need to order rod bearings or main bearings also?

clarks doesn't give instructions on bearing replacement.

knfeparty

find a parts car /replacement engine and swap the whole thing would be the "fastest" way

good luck man I don't know what that green stuff could be

Yummybud924

really? swapping a new engine would be faster than doing the bearings?

I have removed the pan before so I think I can get the pan off pretty quick....

then rod bearings don't look too difficult to replace, you just take the nuts off and the bearings pop out right?

but is there any point in replacing the rod bearings and not hte main bearings. to replace the main bearings the crank has to come out i think and that means pulling the engine and thats way too much work than I can do.

krystar

yea if u wanna do the main bearings u most likely want to drop the engine. unless you want to bench press the crank into position and have someone else put the cradle back on while you hold it there.

joonas

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...t-article.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAmQil-D2Js
Those links should explain it. Main bearings need a lot more work and you should remove the engine from the car.

Right now we do not know are your bearings bad or not. Couple of minutes without oil pressure is bad but there is no way to tell what got damaged without looking.

Here you can look video about spun bearing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzgPI...eature=related

Do still have oil filter to look for metal shavings? What color coolant are you using?

Yummybud924

no coolant in my oil

think i'm going ot just drive it now until the engine craps out and I'm pretty sure it will be pretty soon.

then i'm going to find an engine to get rebuilt.

theres an engine locally some guy is seltling right now for 750 says it 136,000 kms on it.

how much should parts for a rebuild cost?

and how much (estimate) would it cost to have a used block proffesitonally rebuilt. I don't want to do it myself just want to do the removal and installation.

I have a brand new clutch kit installed so I can reuse that.

Yummybud924

no coolant in my oil

think i'm going ot just drive it now until the engine craps out and I'm pretty sure it will be pretty soon.

then i'm going to find an engine to get rebuilt.

theres an engine locally some guy is seltling right now for 750 says it 136,000 kms on it.

how much should parts for a rebuild cost?

and how much (estimate) would it cost to have a used block proffesitonally rebuilt. I don't want to do it myself just want to do the removal and installation.

I have a brand new clutch kit installed so I can reuse that.

knfeparty

well if you can afford it, buy the spare engine, swap it, and then take your time rebuilding the first one. Its difficult to rebuild an engine well under a tight schedule.

NYFlapjack2

4,000 since the no OP run? You sure that long time run with no OP the entire time?
P guys how low is the reading on the sending unit good to?
It may been low just not budging the needle...some gages only are usually good in 2/3 range in middle not at base or upper areas...

So pressure and flow...P guys oil pump volumes? So maybe there was flow, no pressure behind it.. but volume some flow from the pump all the same getting places at this idle.....Thinking if you spun a bearing (rod or main) you'd know it by now. You’ve got no knocking then right after no OP incident (Your January where? how cold you at winters there? No cold start knocks heard? ) You have normal temps and pressures still....

I’d be more inclined that you'd have more signs & bigger stuff.

You can do oil burns ...for Iron and Babbit material threshold checks in quantity PPM vs normal and particle sizes.
You can do 2 for trends like we do in our airplanes... I am far form Pcar expert...but you may have done little more nothing more than extra mileage wear before its time if that...and your black plastic-rubber is hardened seal material and flakes ditto normal (we always see filings & flakes it on our cut open airplane filters. 1st time I saw it I thought there wasn't to be any...but I was reassured by others familiar)...and then as well the oil burn reports come back with normal PPM and no trend been forming from past & ongoing checks that something is going...Iron (lifters, cam lobes) or non ferrous (I think they say when rod and or main bearings wore out zinc up for a while and now showing high copper PPM).

You said it your pan might been dirty too. Guess Pennies not 100% copper these days and have iron in them....? But if your magnet doesn't pick up from these filings ...does a solder iron melt them both?

Anyhow sending you another PM....