Suspension
#1
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Suspension
Anyone know what a good suspension setup would be for the 924S?? Mostly street, very light track use, DOnt mind a harsh ride as it is just a toy. Also dont want to mess much with the Torsion bars. But I need to do something, I think it still has the stock suspension LOL
#2
You can't really do a whole lot without messing with the torsion bars. I've added basically the whole M030 package on my 924S, height adjustable konis in front with red dot springs (160lb, I think), koni yellows in back, 26.8/20 sways, everything but the 25.5 torsion bars (I have them, just haven't worked up the courage to put them in yet). This is a very nice street setup, but even with the relatively light 160lb front springs, it has a bit of understeer with the soft 23.5 torsions. I can compensate somewhat by cranking up the damping on the rear shocks and softening the fronts, but it's not ideal. If you're going with a stiffer front spring, you need at least the 25.5 torsion bars, maybe even bigger if you're going with a 250lb or higher spring.
Most people seem to say that you notice the biggest improvement by putting in bigger sways, but for me, the biggest improvement by far was the konis. Especially if, like me, you're replacing 20 year old worn out Boges with new (or even good used) konis, it's like a different car.
Most people seem to say that you notice the biggest improvement by putting in bigger sways, but for me, the biggest improvement by far was the konis. Especially if, like me, you're replacing 20 year old worn out Boges with new (or even good used) konis, it's like a different car.
#3
Burning Brakes
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Best bang for the buck without replacing the TBs would be koni yellows up front with ground control coilover sleeves and ground control coilover conversion for the rear. You shouldnt need to reindex the TBs with this setup as long as you dont go too crazy on the spring rates. I would also consider replacing the control arms, ball joints and the control arm and sway bar bushings as well.
#4
Rennlist Member
I second everything Jason just said...based on my experience, I can say that koni shocks and 951S or 968 sways will definitely do a lot to tighten up the ride without requiring work on the torsion bars or making it unbearable.
If you want to dial up the spring rates, one other option is to switch to a coilover setup in the rear - I believe that several companies make rear coilover conversions that are designed to work with the torsion bars to give a higher effective spring rate. I haven't done this yet, but I'm thinking about it or something similar(possibly replacing torsion bars altogeher)
Another thing to consider is tires - changing to higher performance tires can also have a significant effect on how the car handles
If you want to dial up the spring rates, one other option is to switch to a coilover setup in the rear - I believe that several companies make rear coilover conversions that are designed to work with the torsion bars to give a higher effective spring rate. I haven't done this yet, but I'm thinking about it or something similar(possibly replacing torsion bars altogeher)
Another thing to consider is tires - changing to higher performance tires can also have a significant effect on how the car handles
#5
Drifting
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This is a nice deal. Includes camber plates!
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=696/CA=2
I installed rear coilovers without removing the t-bars. You will not be able to get the car much (if at all) lower than stock since you're limited by the little adjuster bolt. But the install is a lot simpler.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=696/CA=2
I installed rear coilovers without removing the t-bars. You will not be able to get the car much (if at all) lower than stock since you're limited by the little adjuster bolt. But the install is a lot simpler.
#6
Burning Brakes
Mine has stock torsion bars, Koni Yellows front & rear (no coilovers),
250 lb front springs, custom J-3 sway bars. Martin's bars make all of the difference. Car is now running times in the PCA B class area. With a good driver it would be a competitive B class car as is.
250 lb front springs, custom J-3 sway bars. Martin's bars make all of the difference. Car is now running times in the PCA B class area. With a good driver it would be a competitive B class car as is.
#7
As just going through the same situation myself, I think a good thing to look at is the coveted Pasha article:
http://www.924.org/techsection/Suspe...reparation.htm
I set mine to the low cost option with an 18mm adjustable rear and 25mm front and have no complaints. I also mostly street my car and this setup feels really well balanced at the Glen.
Weltmiester bushings were a vast improvement, as well as lowering the rear/aligning per the Pasha specs.
http://www.924.org/techsection/Suspe...reparation.htm
I set mine to the low cost option with an 18mm adjustable rear and 25mm front and have no complaints. I also mostly street my car and this setup feels really well balanced at the Glen.
Weltmiester bushings were a vast improvement, as well as lowering the rear/aligning per the Pasha specs.
Last edited by 2422Graham; 07-21-2008 at 12:18 AM.
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#8
I know this is a pretty old convo, but I new around here, and if you got the coil over in the back could you get rid of the TBs? I looked it but still don't really know what they are really doing? they are acting as a horizontal spring sort of right?!
#9
Rennlist Member
Yes, you can remove the torsion bars as they are the "springs" I the factory set up. You can also keep them and add a coil over shock with a helper spring.
#10
Rainman
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unless your roads are exceptionally smooth i wouldn't recommend going larger than 26mm on the torsion bars.
the roads out here are "ok", they can be nice and smooth or they can be choppier than dinosaur ****. my 26mm bars can be a little bouncy on the bumpy stuff. and even with fresh bushings all around the t-bar rear end transmits a lot of noise into the cabin, but you said its a toy so maybe you're ok with that.
i have 200# springs in front, 26mm bars in back, with 25.5/18mm swaybars f/r and the car is very sharp on corners but still has understeer at the limits. i think that is down to my unequal tire size f/r though.
the roads out here are "ok", they can be nice and smooth or they can be choppier than dinosaur ****. my 26mm bars can be a little bouncy on the bumpy stuff. and even with fresh bushings all around the t-bar rear end transmits a lot of noise into the cabin, but you said its a toy so maybe you're ok with that.
i have 200# springs in front, 26mm bars in back, with 25.5/18mm swaybars f/r and the car is very sharp on corners but still has understeer at the limits. i think that is down to my unequal tire size f/r though.
#11
Rocket man is correct. I have both a track-only 924S, and a 924S Special Edition. The latter car is equipped with the M030 suspension from the factory. An amazing handling car, better than stock. It does however, do what Rocket says at it's limits. And the track-car I built has 30mm solid rear torsion bars, Delrin carrier bushings (real squeaky) , up front as well, and 350lb springs up front too. I licensed it to run on our back country roads, and well, dinosaur '****' is right~! Even the tracks I run in Phoenix are bumpy and the car hates that. And my body too!