What to look for when buying
07-26-2001, 08:22 AM
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Burning Brakes
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What to look for when buying
Hello All,
I was wondering if someone could give me a few tips on the tipical things to look out for when buying a 914. Mainly whihc bits should have been replaced, which are likely to be susceptible to rust and any suggested upgrades.
In particular I am interested in the 2.0 models.
Thanks in advance
Riccardo
I was wondering if someone could give me a few tips on the tipical things to look out for when buying a 914. Mainly whihc bits should have been replaced, which are likely to be susceptible to rust and any suggested upgrades.
In particular I am interested in the 2.0 models.
Thanks in advance
Riccardo
07-26-2001, 09:45 AM
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Riccardo,
The first areas to examine are the suspension points and battery tray. If the battery tray is missing or has large holes in it, most likely the right rear suspension point, specifically the inner ear, is suspect for rust. The front suspension point for the torsion bars is usually not a problem, because there is no battery above them as in the 911.
Good luck.
Pete
The first areas to examine are the suspension points and battery tray. If the battery tray is missing or has large holes in it, most likely the right rear suspension point, specifically the inner ear, is suspect for rust. The front suspension point for the torsion bars is usually not a problem, because there is no battery above them as in the 911.
Good luck.
Pete
07-29-2001, 10:24 PM
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For a great checklist check out THE 914 page at http://www.914fan.com/
I highly recommend the 1973 2.0L models because they were loaded with the anti-sway bars and center consoles, while 1974+ models were not (these items were options). Yes, the 914/6 cars have 6 cylender engines and more horsepower. They also cost a great deal more, are more collectible and have that PORSCHE assembled cache, but try to get parts and it is a bit more pricey too. Most of the 914/6 originals are indeed great collectors cars and it makes them less suitable for daily driving (unless 15-20K is just pocket change to you).
You want the 2.0 fuel injection (FI). Cars without carbs probably did not get a full tear down to replace the cam and they don't run right with the FI cam. The 2.0 engines included balanced cranks, weight matched pistons, Sodium filled exhaust valves and the more reliable D-Jetronic FI. We now know how to fix these injection systems and both advise and parts are available (used at times).
Be a pesty buyer and remove the battery to check out the tray, suppors and rust behind the holes in the tray. Any rocker panel rust is suspect!
Bad rust area is the cowl to fender seam (look for the rubber seal to be in the seam with no rust bubbles).
Lift all padding from the trunks and check out the corners for rust (bad seals).
Lift the interior carpet and check for water damage. The rear window seals leak after 20 years or so and the rust can cause the seat
to fall through the floorpan.
Check out the pedal cluster area for rust.
Door Lock strike post (besides seats) tend to rust from cheap seam sealer used in the ventilation ports). Stick your head in the rear wheelwells and look toward the posts with a flashlight. Many have a rust crack all the way down.
If the engine was rebuilt, when and what did they do. New rings or Piston/Cyclenders are nice, but the bottom end, seals, new cam, etc. are the way to go; along with new fuel injection pieces as needed.
Expect to pay if you want it to be super clean! I have no battery tray, need to restore some of the rocker on the battery side and have a rusted-through right rear jacking plate. Want one with a rebuild and no rust, then you will be paying 7-10K. Better paint and a full restore, even more.
Location Location Location... I got my car from California because it was undercoated properly and I didn't have the Salt problem from the east and Midwest. Cars from TX, AZ, etc will be salt free, but interiors get baked by the sun. If you are in CA, you can travel and find tons of 914's, but the rest of the US is not that fortunate. I paid mechanics to check out cars for me. I gave them the checklist noted above and still had rust problems when I got the car. East coast cars that I looked at were all a bit too rough for my tastes, so I paid the money for the transportation home. By the way, my car has 250,000 miles on it!
The 914 is one of the easiest cars to work on. RUST has been the restorers friend because there are a ton of used parts around and the 914 people (myself included) are cult-like in their love of these cars... One 914'er even GAVE me a set of rear springs for the freight cost only. Companies like Pelican Parts have a great Tech section on these cars as well.
Many of the 911 people start off by saying that theses are really Volkswagons, to which I reply... "Oh, you must be a Porsche snob"
I highly recommend the 1973 2.0L models because they were loaded with the anti-sway bars and center consoles, while 1974+ models were not (these items were options). Yes, the 914/6 cars have 6 cylender engines and more horsepower. They also cost a great deal more, are more collectible and have that PORSCHE assembled cache, but try to get parts and it is a bit more pricey too. Most of the 914/6 originals are indeed great collectors cars and it makes them less suitable for daily driving (unless 15-20K is just pocket change to you).
You want the 2.0 fuel injection (FI). Cars without carbs probably did not get a full tear down to replace the cam and they don't run right with the FI cam. The 2.0 engines included balanced cranks, weight matched pistons, Sodium filled exhaust valves and the more reliable D-Jetronic FI. We now know how to fix these injection systems and both advise and parts are available (used at times).
Be a pesty buyer and remove the battery to check out the tray, suppors and rust behind the holes in the tray. Any rocker panel rust is suspect!
Bad rust area is the cowl to fender seam (look for the rubber seal to be in the seam with no rust bubbles).
Lift all padding from the trunks and check out the corners for rust (bad seals).
Lift the interior carpet and check for water damage. The rear window seals leak after 20 years or so and the rust can cause the seat
to fall through the floorpan.
Check out the pedal cluster area for rust.
Door Lock strike post (besides seats) tend to rust from cheap seam sealer used in the ventilation ports). Stick your head in the rear wheelwells and look toward the posts with a flashlight. Many have a rust crack all the way down.
If the engine was rebuilt, when and what did they do. New rings or Piston/Cyclenders are nice, but the bottom end, seals, new cam, etc. are the way to go; along with new fuel injection pieces as needed.
Expect to pay if you want it to be super clean! I have no battery tray, need to restore some of the rocker on the battery side and have a rusted-through right rear jacking plate. Want one with a rebuild and no rust, then you will be paying 7-10K. Better paint and a full restore, even more.
Location Location Location... I got my car from California because it was undercoated properly and I didn't have the Salt problem from the east and Midwest. Cars from TX, AZ, etc will be salt free, but interiors get baked by the sun. If you are in CA, you can travel and find tons of 914's, but the rest of the US is not that fortunate. I paid mechanics to check out cars for me. I gave them the checklist noted above and still had rust problems when I got the car. East coast cars that I looked at were all a bit too rough for my tastes, so I paid the money for the transportation home. By the way, my car has 250,000 miles on it!
The 914 is one of the easiest cars to work on. RUST has been the restorers friend because there are a ton of used parts around and the 914 people (myself included) are cult-like in their love of these cars... One 914'er even GAVE me a set of rear springs for the freight cost only. Companies like Pelican Parts have a great Tech section on these cars as well.
Many of the 911 people start off by saying that theses are really Volkswagons, to which I reply... "Oh, you must be a Porsche snob"
07-30-2001, 02:52 PM
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Steer clear of 914's that have been damaged in an accident, especially if the repair job was sloppy. 914's can cost a small fortune to make "right" and straight, rust free body panels are rare as hen's teeth! Try to visit a local Porsche club concours, find an all original / 100 point car and take lots (digital) pics of the body panels to use as reference. Conversely, try to find the worst one in a junk yard to get clues on where to look for rust prone areas. Invest in one of those "spot rot" magnetic guages to detect bondo.
