geolab

I have checked the frames and there was little rust,
so I decided to do the repair as a DIY that could be done at home, although I had better tools, compressor, etc.
I purchased a micro sand blaster from ebay for 23, jar of sand included, hook it to an inflated tire.
I ordered a 100 cc jar of the car's color, made to order paint on ebay cost 12 euros, and
100cc of lacquer for 7 euros.
100cc of etch primer 7 euros.
tube of Loctite 5910, oil sump liquid gasket.
paint brush, yes paint brush
acetone

Sand blasted, acetone clean
etch primed, waited 24h
Clean the metal brackets with acetone.
Painted the rails and brackets with base coat using the brush, tack free in 30 minutes @ 20* C,
clean brush with acetone
paint the lacquer with the brush, thick coat on car, I chose light coat on bracket, wait 24h
Put a 1 centimeter thick oil sump liquid gasket loctite 5910 on the bracket.
Install bracket.
With ice cream stick, smoothen all areas around bracket with the loctite gasket
and render bracket flush with rail, and gasket filling every thing.
took a disposable glove, and smoothened with my finger.
Does not matter if there is gasket everywhere, leave 24h to dry
Next day, take another ice cream stick, and contour the area scrubbing excess gasket off.
as I have done in the picture, to render it smooth and clean.
Paint the black gasket with base coat, still using your brush.
Blot the paint with the brush.
First heat, and it will bond hard, BUT yet flexible

I tested before all this work with heating the gasket to 250* celcius, neither paint
nor gasket moved. The gasket bonding force is 30 shores stable especially with high temp.
Now, 2 years later, and all the heat/cold cycles and the painted gasket holds perfect.
ps: the brackets anytime, could be removed easily, the gasket is like hard gum, so no problem.

few pictures:

geolab

rest

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EMBPilot

You do amazing work George, always impressive. Nice job

Magdaddy

another item for the winter check list this year...thanks for the breakdown George.

95_993

Very nicely done. I really like the micro-blaster....gotta get one of those.

FlatSix911

Well done! Another option is to use a rust converter...

Paul902

"By George, I think he's got it!" Thanks for the writeup. This is on my inspection list, too. I also really like that microblaster. I gotta get me one.

timothymoffat

Great write up.

I am soooooooooo lacking in the talent department.

NYC993

Thanks for the write-up. Will be looking into this very soon.

nrubenstein

I have had pretty poor results with rust converter. It's just not that helpful - and you tend to get very poor adhesion with paint on top of it. If you are going to blast/sand/wire wheel it clean afterwards, you might as well skip the step and go straight to paint.

Also, the Eastwood aerosol is kind of crap. Eastwood's rust converter in quart form is completely different.

geolab

I did this back in 2011, I got the idea and the sandblaster from this thread, (to give credit to who deserves it)

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ht=sandblaster

Wrote the DIY for the ones who are budget tight and do not want spray dust everywhere. A simple soft brush will do, with pictures.
thanks everyone

IXLR8

Nicely done, George, and I happy to see it was only very light surface rust instead of holes.

For those without access to glass beading, I have used muriatic acid (concrete cleaner) to etch away at rust on other cars of past. It gets you down to bare metal nicely.

nrubenstein

Muriatic acid is also great for an absolute last ditch wheel cleaning option. After trying for years (literally, about 8 years) to get a crust of PFC97 dust off a set of OZ Superleggeras, it ate it up in seconds with no paint damage.

I would be ambivalent about using it on the car, though. You have to thoroughly neutralize it before coating or else it can keep working on the metal. In a place like this with great access, I'm not sure why you wouldn't simply wire wheel it before using a phosphoric prepping solution.

IXLR8

This was heavily rusted (where tailgate makes contact with seal). I used muriatic acid and cotton swabs to dab it on. As soon as the fizzing stops, the reaction is pretty well dead. It was washed down and then coated.

An acid wash is good when you have pitting where a steel brush cannot get it all or where an abrasive wheel takes off more than it has to.

PelicanParts.com

Well done! Thanks for the pictures.

Mark/Pelican Parts