Porsche 928 Suspension FAQ

SECTION 1: Ball Joints Warnings

Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:37:45 -0400
Author:
Wally Plumley
Subject:

Body:
It has been some time since the aluminum ball joints were discussed on
the list, and there may well be new members who aren’t aware of them. My
apologies to the older list members for repeating info.

In September 1983, the lower ball joint support was changed from
aluminum to steel. The changeover occurred at VIN 92ES860404. The
aluminum ball joints are DANGEROUS! We have had several list members who
had had failure while driving – luckily, all were at very slow speeds.

If your 928 is earlier than VIN 92ES860404, use a small magnet to test
the lower ball joint supports. Another indication is that the steel
supports have a figure-eight shape, while the aluminum supports have an
oval outline.

If you have aluminum ball joint supports, I strongly urge you to change
them at the earliest opprotunity.

You will need two each 928.341.049.12 ball joint supports; four each
928.341.466.00 adjusting eccentrics; one 928.341.091.05 left bracket;
and one 928.341.092.05 right bracket.

While you are in there, you might consider replacing the rubber boots
for the upper ball joints. The upper ball joints are not replaceable –
you have to replace the entire upper a-frame ($$$). New boots will help
prevent dirt from entering the upper joints.

Wally Plumley

928 Specialists

Ball Joint Tool Recommendations

21 Sep 1999 14:10:12 -0400
Author:
“Richard Vance”

After seeing Wally’s recent post about ball joint replacement, I was
wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a ball joint separator. I
don’t think a pickle fork would do the job without mangling things, so I was
looking at some of the screw type separators. I’ve had the parts for this
lying around for a couple of months now, so I guess its time to do the job
before its too cold here. Also hope to meet many members of the list at the
Frenzy.

TIA, Rich Vance
’81 5 speed

21 Sep 1999 14:32:52 -0500
Author:
Jim Stadter

Richard Vance wrote:
> After seeing Wally’s recent post about ball joint replacement, I was
> wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a ball joint separator. I
> don’t think a pickle fork would do the job without mangling things, so I was
> looking at some of the screw type separators.

If you can find the “proper” ball joint separator, by all means use it.
On the other hand, the pickle fork isn’t elegant, but it can work. You just
have to consider what you’re likely to mangle with it. The spindle is
hardened, so it’s pretty tough. You’ll probably trash the boot
and perhaps the old ball joint, but you’re replacing them anyway.

I couldn’t find a place to rent the screw type separator, so I went the
pickle fork route. One side came loose after a few hits, while the other took
almost a half an hour. Because of the way the ball joint carrier sits away
from the lower control arm, there’s very little risk of inadvertantly hitting
the arm.

—
Jim Stadter
’83 928 S 5-speed (U.S. spec)
’88 928 S4 5-speed
Hill Country Region PCA (Austin)

Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:16:54 -0400
Author:
Wally Plumley

Richard said –

>> I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a ball joint
separator.<< The "two hammer" method works pretty well. The ball joint stud is tapered, which makes it grip the tapered hole VERY tightly. To remove the tapered stud: 1) Loosen the nut, but leave it on the threads. This keeps the joint from flying apart if there is spring pressure or weight on it, and also protects the threads from impact damage. 2) Take the largest chunk of steel that you can get in there and hold it tightly against one side of the part right next to the nut (NOT the ball joint!) It helps a lot if you can get someone else to hold the steel. 3) Hit the other side of the part hard with a large hammer. You are attempting to momentarily distort the tapered seat, so the stud will pop out. CAUTIONS: You can really, really mash the heck out of your fingers if you aren't careful. You can miss and hit something fragile, such as the ball joint. The steel will rebound, and can mash your hand. After you have done this once, you will be astonished at how easy it is and how well it works. Done properly, there is no damage to the joint or to the rubber boot. Wally Plumley 928 Specialists

Steering boots

11 Apr 2000 09:05:59 -0400
Author:
Wally Plumley

At 08:25 AM 4/11/00 +0200, Kurt Rottner wrote:
>I am going to replace my steering boots soon. The manuals don’t day so much
>about the work. Is it so easy or is it as complicated as it usually is when
>it looks so simple ?

1) Securely support the car.
2) Carefully count the threads showing between the tie-rod locking nut and
the end of the tie-rod, and write it down.
3) Break the locking nut loose on the tie-rod end, then unscrew the tie-rod
and locking nut.
4) Remove the old boot. Clean the ball joint, and carefully check it.
5) Slip the boot on the tie-rod, and leave it loose. Reinstall the locking
nut on the tie-rod so that the same number of threads are showing that you
recorded in Step 2). Screw the tie-rod into the tie-rod end until the nut
just touches.
6) Repeat Steps 2) – 5) on the other side.
7) Unscrew the plastic locking cap located on the front side of the rack
housing just in front of where the steering shaft enters the rack housing.
Look thru the hole, and locate the small dimple machined into the steering
rack. Center it in the hole. This centers the rack in the housing.
8) Look at the wheels – they should be straight ahead. If they are not,
turn the tie-rods THE SAME AMOUNT IN THE SAME DIRECTION until the wheels
are straight ahead. The total turns of thread showing must be the same
before and after straightening the wheels, otherwise you have just changed
the toe-in on the car!
9)Tighten the lock nuts securely. Finish installing the boots.
10) Recheck the number of threads showing, think about it, and be sure
that you have done this correctly.
11) Check to be sure the dimple is still centered in the hole. Check the
position of the steering wheel. It should be straight – if not, remove and
reinstall it so it is straight when the dimple is centered in the hole.
12) Reinstall the plastic plug, take a last careful look over everything,
and unjack the car.

Remember that screwing this job up will wear your tires out very quickly at
a minimum, and kill you at a maximum.

Wally Plumley

928 Specialists