Enclosed Trailer Question
#61
Rennlist Member
Accuride slides? I use them a lot and just bought 2 pallets. I cannot figure out what you are doing with the winch mast. It does not look to be aligned with the winch drum. And I can tell you from experience that a winch in a pit can look great, but totally suck to use. Single groove mast pulley will lump the cable on the drum. Sometimes enough to jam it. I had the cable slice through the fairleads once. The pulley needs to be a drum to let the cable pay back and forth and the drum diameter needs to be at least the same diameter of the winch. If smaller then the cable will get curled and be more of a PITA to deal with, and have broken wires to puncture your hands. Other slight issue is the pulley being down low. As your car gets closer it will start to compress the front suspension.
Other than that the rest of the build looks awsome.
Other than that the rest of the build looks awsome.
#62
Drifting
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=ngng;14717004]
Not sure. I'll try this weekend and report back.
The slides are " Hettich " slides, but hopefully get job done. So far so good.
As for the winch i'll make a video this weekend as i'm going to load the car on the trailer while making guides on door ramp for raceramps.
I would definitely appreciate advice if i did something wrong in the installation of that, i'll post video so you can take a look. As for the distance between the winch and front tow hook it's about 8 feet, therefore the car does not get clunk down from compression, i'll verify again this weekend.
Thank you for your input, much appreciate it.
Accuride slides? I use them a lot and just bought 2 pallets. I cannot figure out what you are doing with the winch mast. It does not look to be aligned with the winch drum. And I can tell you from experience that a winch in a pit can look great, but totally suck to use. Single groove mast pulley will lump the cable on the drum. Sometimes enough to jam it. I had the cable slice through the fairleads once. The pulley needs to be a drum to let the cable pay back and forth and the drum diameter needs to be at least the same diameter of the winch. If smaller then the cable will get curled and be more of a PITA to deal with, and have broken wires to puncture your hands. Other slight issue is the pulley being down low. As your car gets closer it will start to compress the front suspension.
Other than that the rest of the build looks awsome.
Other than that the rest of the build looks awsome.
As for the winch i'll make a video this weekend as i'm going to load the car on the trailer while making guides on door ramp for raceramps.
I would definitely appreciate advice if i did something wrong in the installation of that, i'll post video so you can take a look. As for the distance between the winch and front tow hook it's about 8 feet, therefore the car does not get clunk down from compression, i'll verify again this weekend.
Thank you for your input, much appreciate it.
Last edited by F1CrazyDriver; 01-10-2018 at 11:08 PM.
#63
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=F1CrazyDriver;14723307]
Not sure. I'll try this weekend and report back.
The slides are " Hettich " slides, but hopefully get job done. So far so good.
As for the winch i'll make a video this weekend as i'm going to load the car on the trailer while making guides on door ramp for raceramps.
I would definitely appreciate advice if i did something wrong in the installation of that, i'll post video so you can take a look. As for the distance between the winch and front tow hook it's about 8 feet, therefore the car does not get clunk down from compression, i'll verify again this weekend.
Thank you for your input, much appreciate it.
I should have guessed Hettich when I read 550 pounds since Accuride makes 500 # slides. Both good brands.
As for the winch, distance from mast to car is great. But distance from mast pulley to winch is very short and can cause the wire to bunch up in the middle of the drum. This will eventually jam the winch or start sawing on the fairleads. A drum pulley will help maybe a little. I had to use a ****** block and a tie down to pull the cable to one side during the pull in process as when bunched up it is very hard to get the cable un spooled. I abandoned the winch pit and mounted another winch on a sliding aluminum carriage that can align with a tow hook. Slide bar is bolted to the trailer front down members (goose neck) and cable spools evenly back and forth now.
I like watching what you have done so far. My trailer is due for a full refresh in a few months and luckily, can put it inside at my shop during that time.
Not sure. I'll try this weekend and report back.
The slides are " Hettich " slides, but hopefully get job done. So far so good.
As for the winch i'll make a video this weekend as i'm going to load the car on the trailer while making guides on door ramp for raceramps.
I would definitely appreciate advice if i did something wrong in the installation of that, i'll post video so you can take a look. As for the distance between the winch and front tow hook it's about 8 feet, therefore the car does not get clunk down from compression, i'll verify again this weekend.
Thank you for your input, much appreciate it.
As for the winch, distance from mast to car is great. But distance from mast pulley to winch is very short and can cause the wire to bunch up in the middle of the drum. This will eventually jam the winch or start sawing on the fairleads. A drum pulley will help maybe a little. I had to use a ****** block and a tie down to pull the cable to one side during the pull in process as when bunched up it is very hard to get the cable un spooled. I abandoned the winch pit and mounted another winch on a sliding aluminum carriage that can align with a tow hook. Slide bar is bolted to the trailer front down members (goose neck) and cable spools evenly back and forth now.
I like watching what you have done so far. My trailer is due for a full refresh in a few months and luckily, can put it inside at my shop during that time.
#65
Drifting
Thread Starter
[quote=Mussl Kar;14727011]
I finished the ramps today. I'll finally be able to load the car, the way i want. I'll get that video for you, everything you have stated makes sense.
No problem.
New pictures, guide's for location of where ramps should be placed, therefore no guessing and 100% centered. Also, installed the angle bracket that graps onto the race ramps, to avoid race-ramps slipping away.
I saw this video many years ago, and since then it's on the back of my mind. The point of the angle bracket is to avoid ramps sliding away. E-track to lock down tool box. Ikiea drop down basket, this is next to the side door. Roll up when not in use.
That's it. I'm ready to use it and rent out to local track guys . Pending winch works well.
I should have guessed Hettich when I read 550 pounds since Accuride makes 500 # slides. Both good brands.
As for the winch, distance from mast to car is great. But distance from mast pulley to winch is very short and can cause the wire to bunch up in the middle of the drum. This will eventually jam the winch or start sawing on the fairleads. A drum pulley will help maybe a little. I had to use a ****** block and a tie down to pull the cable to one side during the pull in process as when bunched up it is very hard to get the cable un spooled. I abandoned the winch pit and mounted another winch on a sliding aluminum carriage that can align with a tow hook. Slide bar is bolted to the trailer front down members (goose neck) and cable spools evenly back and forth now.
I like watching what you have done so far. My trailer is due for a full refresh in a few months and luckily, can put it inside at my shop during that time.
As for the winch, distance from mast to car is great. But distance from mast pulley to winch is very short and can cause the wire to bunch up in the middle of the drum. This will eventually jam the winch or start sawing on the fairleads. A drum pulley will help maybe a little. I had to use a ****** block and a tie down to pull the cable to one side during the pull in process as when bunched up it is very hard to get the cable un spooled. I abandoned the winch pit and mounted another winch on a sliding aluminum carriage that can align with a tow hook. Slide bar is bolted to the trailer front down members (goose neck) and cable spools evenly back and forth now.
I like watching what you have done so far. My trailer is due for a full refresh in a few months and luckily, can put it inside at my shop during that time.
No problem.
New pictures, guide's for location of where ramps should be placed, therefore no guessing and 100% centered. Also, installed the angle bracket that graps onto the race ramps, to avoid race-ramps slipping away.
I saw this video many years ago, and since then it's on the back of my mind. The point of the angle bracket is to avoid ramps sliding away. E-track to lock down tool box. Ikiea drop down basket, this is next to the side door. Roll up when not in use.
That's it. I'm ready to use it and rent out to local track guys . Pending winch works well.
#66
Drifting
Thread Starter
Question.
For those whom have added a fuel tank with pump, which one do you recommend ? I'm thinking 50~ gallons should get me by for the weekend. I would like to install either 1) under the floor of the trailer or up front, right behind the tailgate of the truck. Front of the trailer.
For those whom have added a fuel tank with pump, which one do you recommend ? I'm thinking 50~ gallons should get me by for the weekend. I would like to install either 1) under the floor of the trailer or up front, right behind the tailgate of the truck. Front of the trailer.
#68
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thank you Mark, i'm not sure if my crafting skills are good but i'll try not to butcher your trailer, like i have w/ mine ! I got your email i will reply - glad to have you back in the bay - looking forward to seeing you soon