Originally Posted by ptom914
(Post 10169194)
I'm loading the car nose first with the car much more forward than your drawing. The center of gravity for my 993 is just forward of the rear jack point, and that's close to the center of my dual rear axle. It'll be easy to adjust the tongue weight by moving the car a foot forward or backward.
I went with the Pro Pride hitch, a Hesley variant. It's more difficult to hitch, but it's so easy to back up. It essentially pivots on the rear axle, so it like a fifth wheel. |
FWIW, shouldn't your E-track shoring beams, supporting the tires, be at the same level as the E-track? Pit Pal and Pit Products (less $$) make nice folding tire racks that can be used on a wall.
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I signed the papers this morning for the final configuration so the shop can begin construction.
Here are the details: Trailer Manufacturer: TPD Model: #CV8524T 24' enclosed Construction: Perimeter steel box frame, all-composite seamless panels, beaver tail Roof: walk-on all-composite seamless panel Suspension: Rubber torsion axles Axles: Dual 5200# axles Interior box dimensions: 23'-9" length, 97.5" width, 7' height, 85" between fenders GVWR: 9990# Trailer: 4050# Payload: 5940# Door: Curb side 36" w/lock Ramp Door: All-composite seamless panel, spring assisted Running lights: LED Upgrades 5' Z-tongue Stone Guard Package (aluminum tread plate on lower front & top of ramp door) 3.5k heavy duty electric tongue jack, lighted Scorpion spray-on berliner flooring (ramp door & floor) 15" aluminum wheels (including spare) Spare tire Spare tire wall mount bracket Ladder (to access roof) 6k# D-ring w/backing plates E-track, wall mounted, 57.2' E-track singles, wall mounted, 14ea L-shaped workbench (for portable generator) Shelf in workbench cabinet Generator door & sliding rack Wall cabinets, 16', 8 doors Wall cabinet dividers, 3ea A/C lighting package (2 int. fluorescent lights, 2 quartz ext. lights, 2 A/C outlets, breaker box, shore power plug) Extra A/C outlets, 5ea Extra 4' fluorescent light Breaker box, heavy duty, 100amp Air Conditioner, 13,5k BTU, w/heat pump Electric winch, 4k#, synthetic rope, w/remote Air cylinder wall mount bracket, 2ea Awning, 20' Customer Add-ons Generator, 3k watt Tool box, 6 drawer, 29" wide Aluminium gas cylinder, 150 cu.ft. (fill w/nitrogen) Regulator, high pressure, w/gauges Hose reel, 50' x 3/8" rubber hose Sway control & weight distribution hitch Door cabinet, 24" Strap hanger, 16", 2ea Extension ramp, 7' Stair step, 24" (for curb side door) Tie-down ratchet straps, 6', 4ea Cart, 2 shelf Fuel jugs, 5 gal, 5ea |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by aj986s
(Post 10169317)
FWIW, shouldn't your E-track shoring beams, supporting the tires, be at the same level as the E-track? Pit Pal and Pit Products (less $$) make nice folding tire racks that can be used on a wall.
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Originally Posted by aj986s
(Post 10169317)
Pit Pal and Pit Products (less $$) make nice folding tire racks that can be used on a wall.
However, as you may have noted in the section I wrote regarding storage, that idea just didn't work in the real world. My original layout had a fixed wall mounted tire rack, big enough for 2 sets. However, every owner of that config, every single one, told me not to do it. They stick out too far from the wall, you hit your head on them, you can't access the tires with the car in the trailer, etc., etc. Then I saw a photo of the shoring beams used in another trailer (just as I have done). It seems like a great idea, but... there are issues with having the tires in the trailer. My next idea was to buy a 2 shelf tire cart. However, strapping that size of cart down to a wall inside my 24' trailer wasn't viable. Next up on the list was simply stacking them on the floor, in front of the workbench. This is probably what I'll end up doing - if the tires are inside the trailer at all. A variant on this theme is to stack them on a small cart. Rubbermaid makes the one I bought. Then I found an even cooler one from Snap-Loc. It's much more heavy-duty and it has those E-track singles already attached for easy strapping. The best part, the Snap-Loc cart isn't much more $$$ than the Rubbermaid cart. Honestly, the tires will likely end up in the bed of the truck. I'll have to mount new tires before a race weekend. The trailer is indoors and I don't have (easy) access to it. So, I'll actually be storing the race wheels at home. They will get loaded up in the truck for the weekend, to go pickup the trailer, so why bother moving them from the bed to inside the trailer? The same thing plays out at the end of the weekend. I won't want to leave them in the trailer, since they will get locked inside when the trailer is stored. I'll need quick & easy access to them in order to schlep them to the tire shop for new shoes. |
Excellent posts! Very informative for me as I'm currently looking for a used TPD 20' (I know, I should really go bigger!). Questions for you a) are you in SF (I'm thinking so) and b) if you are in SF, where did you decide to store it? I just spent the morning calling a bunch of different places for quotes. Thanks!
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Cool looking plans. Thanks for sharing. When you get ready to sell in a year or two for the "next trailer" let me know. May be ready for enclosed by then. :) Really looks awesome.
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Originally Posted by Pete
(Post 10167390)
Is his name "Mooty"? :)
the only car i regret selling ever is the gmc.... ugh. seller remorse already. Let me help you lar, Your 24’ is already too small and wimps drive 2500. You really should just get it right. 48’ with 3500 dually or F450. In fact, I am selling my 44’ prior to taking delivery. It’s ALREADY too small. My 53’ double decker with peterbilt will be delivered to me right after I order and sell my 48’. Lars dwg is not quite accurate. CAD SUX. I know I was an architect. Fk autocad. Or any cad, real artiest use pencils. I digress. The trailer tires are actually farther back. I know no fewer than 20 tpd owners from 20-24’, both dual and triple trailer. ALL of them put the a** at the back, zero issue, no sway, correct tongue wt. I had a 24’ triple, I don’t bother marking where I park the car. Literally anywhere in the trailer, I have no issues towing with my little 2500 duramax. |
Looking good!! can't wait to see it all finished up!
mooty is right, once u hook up, load everything, you'll be towing at 80mph in no time. |
Originally Posted by mooty
(Post 10170672)
perhaps.
the only car i regret selling ever is the gmc.... ugh. seller remorse already. Let me help you lar, Your 24 is already too small and wimps drive 2500. You really should just get it right. 48 with 3500 dually or F450. In fact, I am selling my 44 prior to taking delivery. Its ALREADY too small. My 53 double decker with peterbilt will be delivered to me right after I order and sell my 48. Lars dwg is not quite accurate. CAD SUX. I know I was an architect. Fk autocad. Or any cad, real artiest use pencils. I digress. The trailer tires are actually farther back. I know no fewer than 20 tpd owners from 20-24, both dual and triple trailer. ALL of them put the a** at the back, zero issue, no sway, correct tongue wt. I had a 24 triple, I dont bother marking where I park the car. Literally anywhere in the trailer, I have no issues towing with my little 2500 duramax. |
Atta boy! Just keep raisin' that bar.
It seems just as soon as I get there... you just go and raise it up again! LOL |
Man - where were you when I was designing the Jackpoint jack stand. I'm really coveting your cad program and skills. Computer modeling, FEA's, etc. - I got it all done, but not every guy with your skills is also into cars. Some just didn't get it. BTW - if you stack the 4 Jackpoint Jackstands they will take up a total space of only 12"x16"x21.5" (height). Total weight for 4 w/low profile pads - 72 lbs. Just a thought.
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Unless you dont go further than a few hours drive eventually you will end up with this:
Gooseneck 44' 7' tall -Airline track in the floor for D rings anywhere. -Etrack in the walls everywhere so you can place anything anywhere. -No need to pre configure anything, just put stuff where you want it. -Pre wire at leat for A/C and Generator and 11V outlets everywhere. -Lots of turn signal lights so at least others' get a fair warning.. -Extruded alu floor. -Extra alu posts in the wall and floor and upgrade to thicker alu skin inside and out. -G rated stacker tires triple axle, some 2 axle trailers will do, in any case place axles as close together as you can. -Pointy nose with bubble for speed / MPG Truck; Dually. -Extra diesel tank for minimum 1000 mile radius. -TPS on truck (OEM now on 2013) and aftermarket on trailer. -Air compressor under the truck for tires and leveling off truck with aftermarket airbags under rear axle. It can also feed a Wake the dead train horn for moving Priuses out of the left lane. -Mine is oem, but a tune and all emission crap removal voids warranty but puts a nice black smoke screen down to annoy said Prius. You live in California, so I guess you have a Prius.. Driving: Take cones and big parking lot and practice backing in with blind spots etc. never rush parking, get out of truck and go look also when there are 100 cars blowing horn at you. Use all asphalt, also into oncoming traffic. They will move. If they dont you can always stop, block as many cars as you can untill someone figures out they need to back up. Now you can visit tracks anywhere in the country, share a trailer with someone to pay for diesel. See it pays for itself. Skip the multi trailer process :-) |
It's obvious that size matters even outside of Texas. Regardless of size a couple of thoughts that you might want to consider.
We used a waterproof exterior outlet cover inside and outside the trailer wall to create a pass through for hoses so you don't have to leave the rear or side door open. If you are using 110 fluorescent lights then use long HVAC. Style tywraps around the lens and over the metal backing to make a safety so the lens cannot fall onto your car during transport. The s6000 super winch product is great and the lightweight line is so much better than the steel wire. I was skeptical but we have run it for a hundred in and out cycles with no wear. Better on hands and car. There are some great tow hook mounting clips available from Rennline that have made securing the car so fast and easy as compared to running straps through the wheels, With the side benefit of not damaging the wheels. Another idea is a high powered 12 volt spot light right at the rear inside shining down on the ramp and ground before the ramp to make loading at night easier. Anyway just my .02 worth, and oh BTW our 48 foot is actually still to small. Good luck. |
Also depends on your uses.
For me it's a big cargo box, I only really sit in it when it rains. A/c would be nice in the summer I suppose. It has been easier to sit in others' A/C. I have a winch, but never used it, I just drive the cars in and out. Lighting is important, I went with something like 30 12vlights so as long as I leave the truck running it is super bright inside and enough light flows out to light up the rear gate... |
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