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Already looking, but want to keep total coach+trailer length less than 65', thus a 20' trailer. I've had a 20' enclosed before (my first enclosed trailer), not ideal, but I have quite a bit of garage space in the coach.
2015 Dynamax DX3 37TRS, 8.9L Cummins turbo diesel, Allison TRV3200 trans in the Freightliner M2 106 chassis. 20K towing with 3K hitch weight. First trip was B'ham to VIR and back, couldn't even tell I was towing a trailer.
You could just get a hitch rack to carry the car lol
^ comfortable daily drive, very stable when towing, plenty of torque w/ a factory tow package? Range Rover HSE Td6 (Diesel) tows 7,700 lbs like it’s nothing.
^ comfortable daily drive, very stable when towing, plenty of torque w/ a factory tow package? Range Rover HSE Td6 (Diesel) tows 7,700 lbs like it’s nothing.
Nice vehicles.
I'm towing about 4000# with the Trailex, D stock 911 and tools so I'm well under the rated limit (7700# for all Cayennes). Early on, I towed a few times with my trusty 2000 4Runner (rated for 5000#). It would go (slowly) and stop (eventually) but the rear stability was always, shall we say, strongly influenced by the trailer.
I know people who tow enclosed trailers with Cayennes and Audi Q7s who say it works fine, but I like leaving a healthy margin.
I'm towing about 4000# with the Trailex, D stock 911 and tools so I'm well under the rated limit (7700# for all Cayennes). Early on, I towed a few times with my trusty 2000 4Runner (rated for 5000#). It would go (slowly) and stop (eventually) but the rear stability was always, shall we say, strongly influenced by the trailer.
I know people who tow enclosed trailers with Cayennes and Audi Q7s who say it works fine, but I like leaving a healthy margin.
Thanks, I’m the same way, I like to leave a healthy margin when towing. I think I’m at about 5,000 lbs (well below the 7,700 lbs towing capacity). If I were going enclosed, I would seriously consider a diesel dually truck (not a fan, personally, of SUV’s towing towing those sizes & weights).
Thanks, I’m the same way, I like to leave a healthy margin when towing. I think I’m at about 5,000 lbs (well below the 7,700 lbs towing capacity). If I were going enclosed, I would seriously consider a diesel dually truck (not a fan, personally, of SUV’s towing towing those sizes & weights).
I tow an 8.5x20 enclosed trailer with a RRS with that same TDV6 and I’m up at altitude. The empty steel trailer is 3000#, a few hundred more for tires and gear, and the car is 2500# right now so it’s around 6000# total. It works pretty well for the local tows I do which are typically about an hour one way. The RRS wheelbase is a bit short for the trailer so I have to manage my weight properly, and I rarely go any faster than the speed limit. I suspect the aerodynamic drag is one of the biggest penalties of an enclosed trailer, probably just as important as the increased weight. A nice upside is the enclosed trailer can serve as car storage. I’m out of garage spots so that had a lot of appeal to me.
I’m sure a big diesel duallie or a semi-based RV would tow better. Problem is, I don’t want one for much else, so it doesn’t make as much sense to get another vehicle when I can make due with what I have without any big issues. We’d have the exact same SUV if I didn’t need to tow.
Now if I traveled across the country for racing instead of going local I would probably feel differently about using the family SUV to tow. But then I’d be tempted to rent a truck for that anyway just to save the wear and tear and servicing requirements on my vehicles. I’d also give a serious look to full A&D - while it sounds expensive, having a vehicle primarily for half a dozen tows a year sounds pretty expensive too... so again it comes back to what vehicle we enjoy driving day to day that can get the job done well enough. If I liked driving trucks around town or we were a family that enjoyed doing regular RV trips, I’d get one of those and use it to tow. For me and my scenario though the small diesel SUV approach does a pretty good job.
2012 1500 suburban, 20 ft ATC. The open is great because i can store it in my back yard without seeing it. Also the open is lightweight and is towed easily behind the suburban. The suburban is great because i can sleep in it and i can securely stiff stuff
Out of curiosity - why spec a 20' open trailer? I would have thought it's not really like an enclosed where the extra length = extra usable storage so the goal would be the smallest trailer that fit. With the rack above your Vette, I bet you could have even gotten it done with a 16', and definitely no issue at all with an 18'. PS that Corvette looks seriously mean... that car on Hoosiers would pretty much embarrass any race car short of an open wheel on track...
Hi Mark, i didn’t spec the trailer. I got a really good deal on this. Honestly the 20ft works really well and super easy to tow. I bet i could strap another set of wheels under the tire rack or fit a pit bike there. Haha about the Hoosiers. I was thinking about it. Car is super fast with the PS2’s. My real problem now is figuring what to do with seats and a 6pt. Was at the glen 2 weeks ago and my left knee had a bump and bruise on it from pressing against the door panel trying to stay in the seat.
Hi Mark, i didn’t spec the trailer. I got a really good deal on this. Honestly the 20ft works really well and super easy to tow. I bet i could strap another set of wheels under the tire rack or fit a pit bike there. Haha about the Hoosiers. I was thinking about it. Car is super fast with the PS2’s. My real problem now is figuring what to do with seats and a 6pt. Was at the glen 2 weeks ago and my left knee had a bump and bruise on it from pressing against the door panel trying to stay in the seat.
Just jump off the cliff now! Full cage, full containment seats, harnesses, etc, etc, lol
I tow an 8.5x20 enclosed trailer with a RRS with that same TDV6 and I’m up at altitude. The empty steel trailer is 3000#, a few hundred more for tires and gear, and the car is 2500# right now so it’s around 6000# total. It works pretty well for the local tows I do which are typically about an hour one way. The RRS wheelbase is a bit short for the trailer so I have to manage my weight properly, and I rarely go any faster than the speed limit. I suspect the aerodynamic drag is one of the biggest penalties of an enclosed trailer, probably just as important as the increased weight. A nice upside is the enclosed trailer can serve as car storage. I’m out of garage spots so that had a lot of appeal to me.
I’m sure a big diesel duallie or a semi-based RV would tow better. Problem is, I don’t want one for much else, so it doesn’t make as much sense to get another vehicle when I can make due with what I have without any big issues. We’d have the exact same SUV if I didn’t need to tow.
Now if I traveled across the country for racing instead of going local I would probably feel differently about using the family SUV to tow. But then I’d be tempted to rent a truck for that anyway just to save the wear and tear and servicing requirements on my vehicles. I’d also give a serious look to full A&D - while it sounds expensive, having a vehicle primarily for half a dozen tows a year sounds pretty expensive too... so again it comes back to what vehicle we enjoy driving day to day that can get the job done well enough. If I liked driving trucks around town or we were a family that enjoyed doing regular RV trips, I’d get one of those and use it to tow. For me and my scenario though the small diesel SUV approach does a pretty good job.
I couldn’t agree with you more. The RR serves as my DD as well and it handles towing duties with ease when needed. It could probably tow an enclosed 20’ just as easily although I haven’t tried.
07-09-2019, 02:01 PM
