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I want to upgrade from my open aluminum trailer to an enclosed aluminum trailer. I plan to do some longer hauls with my miata WRL car and hoping to bring more gear inside the trailer (tools, fuel jugs, wheels/tires, etc.).
Initially had hopes to go with a 20' featherlite 4926. A friend has one and it seems like a nice upgrade over the open trailer while not going overboard. It fits the miata perfectly and my friend has a spec boxster that he fits in there easily, but I question whether my e36 m3 will fit adequately with enough room to tie it down and get the weight distributed appropriately. Next step up would be a 24' which I assume is plenty but then my concern is approaching the towing capacity of my truck. I drive a 2013 f-150 4x4 crew-cab and would prefer not to upgrade at this time. Max towing capacity of 9600 lbs.
My questions revolve around how to determine that a vehicle can safely fit in the trailer and be distributed evenly. Comparing my M3 to my friends spec boxster, the m3 is obviously a few lbs heavier (2800 loaded with fuel). The wheel base is 106.3" vs. 95.2" for the boxster though overall length is only 3.5" longer (174.5" vs. 171"). What do I need to look out for? Any insight/advice would be helpful as I weigh the options.
I tow a 2600 lb 944 in a fairly loaded 20 ft trailer with a 2010 F150 without issues.I wish i had room to park a 24 footer at home as it would make a huge difference for my needs but if you can
find a good 24 ft trailer your truck will easily be able to tow it.I have the 5.4 V8 so i can't speak for the Ecoboost engine.
I added air bags last year and it was a good investment , it keeps the headlights pointed in the right direction.
The extra 4 feet from a bigger trailer would suit my pit bike perfectly as it's a really tight fit as it is.
I think you’re about to find out that people have very strong feelings when it comes to 1/2 ton trucks vs larger pickups. My personal though is that bigger is safer...if you’re not wanting to upgrade your truck, stick to a 20 footer. Remember that it’s not necessarily the weight, but rather the frontal and overall surface area of the trailer that makes it tough for 150’s. But plenty of guys tow enclosed trailers with 1/2 tons and even SUVs, so ultimately it’ll come down to what you’re comfortable with...no one would argue that a 1-ton isn’t better, but thats not always a practical solution.
As for your M3 - you should have enough room in a 20’ to move it fore and aft as needed to balance everything out. Look into a Weightsafe hitch, as it has a tongue weight scale built right into it...that’s really nice to have, since you will absolutely be able to notice an improperly loaded trailer with an F-150
I bought a Sherline tongue scale a few years ago when i needed to set up the axles on my boat trailer, they are wonderful for any trailer
and very useful to set up the load in a race trailer.
Now , you have the debate between a "V" nose or a flat nose trailer ... i found if i trailered at a steady 100 kilometers per hour as compared
to the usual 120-130 , the fuel savings is enormous !
Lots of lost space with a "V" nose, although the fuel savings is debatable ...
I went from an open to a 20' plus Vnose to a 24' flat front enclosed trailer. Started with an F150, now have a Titan XD. There's a lot more room in the 24' if you can wing it. Engine and brake wise, the F150 ecoboost towed either enclosed just fine. Warning, the transmission won't last too long. Getting an anti sway weight distribution hitch set up helped tremendously with the sway from semis, and getting the car placed properly in the trailer makes it feel much more secure. I did that the old fashioned way, trial and error. But a tongue scale would have made it faster and easier. Check tire pressures and lug nuts before every trip. Have fun.
You won't have any problems with an E36 in a 20' enclosed. I borrowed an 18' x8.5V-nose to see how I would like it before buying mine. I found the tie-down points a bit too far back in that model, which put the ratchets under the front bumper, which was very annoying (but it was a free rental). The car fit in the trailer fine. I recently purchased a used 20'x8.5 V-nose, but have only had the car in it once for a very short trip. That trailer was originally set up for multiple-UTVs, so there are extra tie-downs, but having a set closer to the front, allowed a more conventional tie-down arrangement. 20' will be fine. The trailer came with a weight distribution hitch but I haven't used it yet, but will be set-up before next years season. I use a Tundra, not ideal, but for the 4-5 times per year, I tow the 100 miles to VIR, or the 150 miles to CMP, it works fine. Sucks gas something fierce :-)
All good advice. Bigger is better in both truck and trailer. That said, I get a lot in my 20' including car and pit bike. The SM is easier than the Porsche, but it works either way. Depending on when you are looking for that 4926 I might have one for sale. All set up with tire racks, storage bins and A track.
Usually the problem is not towing the trailer but stopping it safely and handling any adverse sway or emergency situations...
like others say above...would def recommend airbags, WD hitch, etc
Thanks, everyone, for the insight. Takeaways so far:
1. 20 ft. trailer would handle my vehicle with room to spare for other stuff
2. My f-150 should be able to tow everything handily
3. Bigger is better
Stepping up from a 20 ft. to a 24 ft. is not that much more money in the grand scheme of things. Either trailer would require a new storage arrangement, which I am looking into. I do not have the ability to store any trailer at my home. I have a lot of exposure to my friends 20' and it seems like as much as I would need. He tows it with an lx570 and a WD hitch. Obviously, as the team grows and maybe we start racing another vehicle, it may make sense to upgrade down the road. That said, I can see myself being happy with the space offered by a 20' for at least a few years. Those of you who have a 24', what kind of stuff are you bringing to the track that I may not fit in a 20' with my car, tools, two sets of spares, fuel...I would hate to start lugging around a bunch of stuff I never use just because I have the space.
Upgrading my truck is a more expensive proposition, especially considering I really like the truck! I also use the f150 as my daily driver and it fits that role remarkably well in the great state of Texas. One of the bigger drawbacks I see in upgrading to a more capable truck is that every proportion is larger than the f150. Obviously I need to go test drive, but is maneuvering a 250 truck noticeably more challenging that the "more nimble" f-150? Also, with where gasoline prices are shaking out currently I would be facing larger bills at the pumps even with slightly better fuel economy with the diesel. What mileage improvement would be reasonable to expect with a diesel vs. my ecoboost (which is not great, if I am honest). Going to an f-250 (or another 1-ton) is in the plans but I hope to delay that large purchase for at least a year.
Overall the f-150 + 20' trailer seems like a good pairing. And RobT, let me know. I would look to purchase early next year.
I have a 20ft. Featherlite that I tow with a Q7 TDI. I haven't weighed it but estimate that it's in the 6k range with all the stuff I've added to it and the car. I fit everything I need in the trailer and really don't need anything bigger. It's well organized and I spent a fair amount of time with the modifications to ensure they would fit and work well together. When I dropped off my car to get worked on last week, the shop owner commented on how much room was in the trailer even when fully loaded. I would if I raced and needed more than one set of spare wheels and the ability to store spare parts etc. I've posted pics of most if not all my modifications in this forum. Here's a two pics that show it pretty well.
I agree - the tendency always seems to be to go up to a 24-28', but I seldom see trailers that truly are maximized in terms of "capacity" beyond floor space. There is a lot of real estate on the walls that requires some imagination to access, but can be highly utilized. I had a 20' and while I was not trying to transport spare engines or body parts, I traveled with a wide complement of tools, ramps, pit equipment, awnings, etc with no issue.
And there are some that say this is the minimum. Less than a half a mill.
I remember reading a post on here where a guy says he started with an open trailer, moved to a closed trailer, then to a larger tow trailer, then a larger trailer with a 5th wheel and then sold it all and started doing arrive and drives again. LOL
I like having the smaller trailer, it meets my needs - as always - your needs may vary.
Thanks for all the input guys. rastta, your trailer looks very organized and well equipped. I will reach out when I get further down the road with mine.
I guess it would be nice to tote a spare long block and/or transmission for the miata. We are doing two 8 hour races on race weekend, so stuff can happen. I also know my mechanical limits and swapping a motor with a time crunch is not in my wheelhouse. So basic spares and tools will come along but no "large" spares other than probably 6-8 extra wheels/tires.
I would love to do arrive and drive haha. Need to make some more money first. The race shop that does a lot of the heavy lifting for my M3 has an awesome rig/toter setup that he will fill with customer cars for race weekends. Goals to strive for I guess, more than I can afford pal.
12-14-2018, 05:14 PM
Enclosed Trailer Advice Needed
Less than a half a mill. 
