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How to raise nose of car while on open trailer?

 
Old 01-21-2018, 09:41 AM
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Spinout
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Default How to raise nose of car while on open trailer?

My 996GT3 has gotten so low at the nose I’m having a very tough time getting my tie downs securely fastened. I’m hauling on an ATC solid deck alum. open trailer and the ratchets are into the underbody panels. It’s really difficult to unlatch once the car has settled after a long haul.

I’d like to be able to raise the front end of the 996 on the trailer to give me some room to work the ratchets more easily. I’m currently running straps through the wheels and tying them to the stock D-ring locations at 5e front of the trailer.

I was thinking a couple of 1” thick rubber mats or pads (to provide friction so the wheels won’t slide on the mats or trailer) to drive up onto to raise the front end a bit. I’ve seen some recycled tire mats that might work in this application. I assume I’m not the first w this issue so I thought I might get some insight here. Thanks
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:16 PM
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schaibaa
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It would require different tie down locations, but you could go with macs over the wheel straps with idlers.
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:27 PM
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Byron in MS
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I use these from Rennline on a low 996tt
http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Fro...ctinfo/E32.04/
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:57 PM
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I have a similar issue when hauling my 2011 Turbo S I ended up using some 2x10 cut to about 24” long and put a 30 degree cut on each end. I drive up on those on the trailer, they work fine for getting the car a little higher. I use what I think they call a J track and run the straps over the tires with idlers on the track, I just have enough room to operate the ratchets underneath the body panels. I think in the spring I’m going to remake my ramps out of 1 inch plywood doubled up for 2 inch rise, I found the 2x10 didn’t stand up but it still worked. I do this on all 4 wheels, it lets my doors clear the fenders as well when getting in and out of the car.
I have an old 18-20 foot Wilson trailer with a wooden tilt deck, the J track are 4 feet long bolted to the deck running front to back at each wheel. I’ve used straps through the wheels before but was always worried about marking the wheels. I sure like tying down front to back over the tires instead, cars ride nice and feels secure.
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Old 01-21-2018, 07:11 PM
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Frank 993 C4S
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Use ramps. I believe these are RaceRamps.
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Old 01-21-2018, 07:56 PM
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Ramps. Are they bolted to the trailer deck?
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Old 01-22-2018, 02:07 AM
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Frank 993 C4S
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Originally Posted by Spinout
Ramps. Are they bolted to the trailer deck?
No, they are removable. They are called Trailer-Mates. Without the ramps I would not be able to open my car door over the trailer sill.

https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/trai...trailer-mates/

Last edited by Frank 993 C4S; 01-22-2018 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:43 AM
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I use the race ramps on my enclosed trailer, otherwise my door wouldn't cleat the escape door. Added bonus, much easier to use the tie downs. They're great.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:07 PM
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Paul Solk
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Originally Posted by linzman View Post
I use the race ramps on my enclosed trailer, otherwise my door wouldn't cleat the escape door. Added bonus, much easier to use the tie downs. They're great.
I use the race ramps on an open trailer for the same reason. Work great...



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Old 01-22-2018, 07:09 PM
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Ahhh, those are awesome and will work great! Thanks for the recommendation. The car won’t slide around on those on the trailer, even without being firmly secured with bolts or adhesive? I suppose they’re held in place by the weight of a car with no issue?

Does anyone know of any cheaper places to purchase other than direct? I’m ready to order. Too bad I won’t have them in time for Seabring this weekend
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:58 PM
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I jist lay them down in position, and then slowly drive on until the front wheel is in the cradle portion, then tie the car down. They have never slipped yet, but i have a rubber coin floor. Not cheap, bit they work, and theyve lasted a long time.
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:12 AM
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Ordered and will arrive on Thursday

Thanks again for the comments and recommendation. This appears to be a great solution to my problem.

Brian
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Old 01-23-2018, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinout View Post
Ahhh, those are awesome and will work great! Thanks for the recommendation. The car won’t slide around on those on the trailer, even without being firmly secured with bolts or adhesive? I suppose they’re held in place by the weight of a car with no issue?

Does anyone know of any cheaper places to purchase other than direct? I’m ready to order. Too bad I won’t have them in time for Seabring this weekend
Cheap quick alternative is to use some 2 x 10 wood.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinout View Post
Ahhh, those are awesome and will work great! Thanks for the recommendation. The car won’t slide around on those on the trailer, even without being firmly secured with bolts or adhesive? I suppose they’re held in place by the weight of a car with no issue?

Does anyone know of any cheaper places to purchase other than direct? I’m ready to order. Too bad I won’t have them in time for Seabring this weekend
Try calling Fred at Reverse Logic. I believe his pricing is very competitive.
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Old 01-24-2018, 01:57 AM
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I just hope your splitter will clear the ramps.
I only clear 1" off the ground so made up a thin version using plywood.
No slippage noted.
BTW, Fred at RaceLogic is great. He is also the only source of the special version of RaceRamps that gradually increase the rate of incline, allowing a shorter ramp than if it were a steady rate of incline (note this is for ramps, not the product being proposed to the original poster).
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