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Old 10-13-2017, 12:35 PM
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Shandingo
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Default Loading and unloading procedures (looking for advice/tips)

I asked this question in another thread in the general DE forum, but thought it might get more responses here. Just wanted ask if anyone can share their loading/unloading procedures or provide advice for improving my process. I have a Trailex open trailer (CT-8045EB) and my current process involves using an electric winch with the car running and transmission in neutral, and operating the winch form inside the car (a GT4).

I also use two Hyndsight cameras mounted on the trailer to monitor where the car is on the trailer/ramps while loading and unloading. However, because I am new at this and the deck height on my trailer is fairly high, I am still very nervous about loading and unloading without a spotter walking around the car to help me out. The ramps are also only around 10" wide and very long (trailer ramps are 11' long and I use Race Ramps that extend the ramps another 5' or so due to the low front spoiler on the GT4)

I have considered operating the winch from outside the car to allow myself to walk around the car, but I am not sure that is a better way to go with nobody in the car to put the brakes on if something happens with the winch or if the car starts to roll too fast toward the winch once it is up on the trailer (my driveway has a very slight incline - 1 or 2 percent that slopes down toward the front of the trailer, but loading in the driveway is much more convenient). I also have to unload in front of my house which has a bit more slope than the driveway (rear of the trailer is on down hill side), as I have a very hard time backing the trailer 90 degrees into my one car driveway when it is loaded, due to the limited space on my street. Instead I use a trailer dolly to move the trailer back into the driveway after unloading in front of the house.

Another possibility would be for me to load and unload about a block away from my house on a completely level surface. If doing that would allow me to safely operate the winch from outside the car that is another possibility, but would like to hear from others who use an electric winch as to whether that is a good idea even on level ground. It seems that there are trade offs either way, but any thoughts would be appreciated.
Old 10-13-2017, 02:57 PM
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ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by Shandingo
I asked this question in another thread in the general DE forum, but thought it might get more responses here. Just wanted ask if anyone can share their loading/unloading procedures or provide advice for improving my process. I have a Trailex open trailer (CT-8045EB) and my current process involves using an electric winch with the car running and transmission in neutral, and operating the winch form inside the car (a GT4).

I also use two Hyndsight cameras mounted on the trailer to monitor where the car is on the trailer/ramps while loading and unloading. However, because I am new at this and the deck height on my trailer is fairly high, I am still very nervous about loading and unloading without a spotter walking around the car to help me out. The ramps are also only around 10" wide and very long (trailer ramps are 11' long and I use Race Ramps that extend the ramps another 5' or so due to the low front spoiler on the GT4)

I have considered operating the winch from outside the car to allow myself to walk around the car, but I am not sure that is a better way to go with nobody in the car to put the brakes on if something happens with the winch or if the car starts to roll too fast toward the winch once it is up on the trailer (my driveway has a very slight incline - 1 or 2 percent that slopes down toward the front of the trailer, but loading in the driveway is much more convenient). I also have to unload in front of my house which has a bit more slope than the driveway (rear of the trailer is on down hill side), as I have a very hard time backing the trailer 90 degrees into my one car driveway when it is loaded, due to the limited space on my street. Instead I use a trailer dolly to move the trailer back into the driveway after unloading in front of the house.

Another possibility would be for me to load and unload about a block away from my house on a completely level surface. If doing that would allow me to safely operate the winch from outside the car that is another possibility, but would like to hear from others who use an electric winch as to whether that is a good idea even on level ground. It seems that there are trade offs either way, but any thoughts would be appreciated.
First off, I make the assumption that the winch is not going to fail. My only loose defense is that I typically find a spot to load with an open space behind the trailer that will give it room to roll as it slows, and me enough time to chase it down and jump in the window dukes of hazard style - I fancy that it will work out that way...but probably ends with me getting run over by the car.

(DUH moment - Load any tires on the rack first, really easy to drop one on a loaded car)

I make sure the trailer is slightly inclined by way of the parking area being slightly inclined, or I use the Trailer Jack to lift it a bit (while connected to the tow vehicle of course). The slight incline makes sure the car does not run forward and makes it easier to roll off.

I marked where the ramps should be at the top and I use a tape measure at the bottom to make sure they are roughly parrallel...though now I've done it enough that I just eye-ball it. Bottom of the ramps are on race ramps.

I load from outside of the car with a wireless controller, ignition off so that the car does not have a mind of its own when I let go of the wheel (I have to let go in my enclosed until I can get back to the wheel through the side opening. After a while, it becomes very easy to judge that the car is aligned by looking at the grooves in the aluminum decking on the trailex.

I winch it on until it hits the stop guides (set in position for different cars and loads). On a lot of cars, GT4 and RS included, the stop guides are a bit too tall for the ride height, so I have a 1/2" x 14" piece of wood taped to the decking to lift the nose a bit as it's rolling over, and then drop back down once the nose clears the stop guides.

With the winch still attached, I install the front straps first, pulling the car against front stops. Then I relax the winch. Then install the rear straps. Tightening front rear second time. Put the e-brake on (assuming the car is not super hot), roll up the windows, remove the memory card from the data system, plug in the battery maintainer, and turn off the ignition, then turn off power in the trailer.

Load ramps, etc. Check straps every time I fuel up.

I'm probably doing something really dangerous no doubt, the probability of failure has been on my side for a few years.
Old 10-13-2017, 03:16 PM
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Shandingo
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
First off, I make the assumption that the winch is not going to fail. My only loose defense is that I typically find a spot to load with an open space behind the trailer that will give it room to roll as it slows, and me enough time to chase it down and jump in the window dukes of hazard style - I fancy that it will work out that way...but probably ends with me getting run over by the car.

(DUH moment - Load any tires on the rack first, really easy to drop one on a loaded car)

I make sure the trailer is slightly inclined by way of the parking area being slightly inclined, or I use the Trailer Jack to lift it a bit (while connected to the tow vehicle of course). The slight incline makes sure the car does not run forward and makes it easier to roll off.

I marked where the ramps should be at the top and I use a tape measure at the bottom to make sure they are roughly parrallel...though now I've done it enough that I just eye-ball it. Bottom of the ramps are on race ramps.

I load from outside of the car with a wireless controller, ignition off so that the car does not have a mind of its own when I let go of the wheel (I have to let go in my enclosed until I can get back to the wheel through the side opening. After a while, it becomes very easy to judge that the car is aligned by looking at the grooves in the aluminum decking on the trailex.

I winch it on until it hits the stop guides (set in position for different cars and loads). On a lot of cars, GT4 and RS included, the stop guides are a bit too tall for the ride height, so I have a 1/2" x 14" piece of wood taped to the decking to lift the nose a bit as it's rolling over, and then drop back down once the nose clears the stop guides.

With the winch still attached, I install the front straps first, pulling the car against front stops. Then I relax the winch. Then install the rear straps. Tightening front rear second time. Put the e-brake on (assuming the car is not super hot), roll up the windows, remove the memory card from the data system, plug in the battery maintainer, and turn off the ignition, then turn off power in the trailer.

Load ramps, etc. Check straps every time I fuel up.

I'm probably doing something really dangerous no doubt, the probability of failure has been on my side for a few years.
Thanks, this is helpful. Do you find that making steering adjustments on the GT4 is not too difficult from outside the car when the motor is not running?

Separately, do know precisely what distance you set your ramps apart for your GT4? Of course, the GT4 has staggered wheels, so it is a compromise determining whether to set for the front or the rear wheels.
Old 10-14-2017, 01:22 AM
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lmnsblu355
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My procedure on my featherlite open with GT3 or Boxster:
1 Connect trailer to tow vehicle hitch, safety chains, breakaway tether. Set up trailer ramps and race ramps.Remove drivers side trailer fender.
2 Drive the car up onto the trailer and stop when nose of car just behind tire rack. Turn off car.
3. set park brake and leave in gear. Get out if car.
4. Strap down with Macs tie downs thru wheel.
5. Put car in neutral with parking brake engaged.
6. Put trailer fender back in place and latch.

No spotter. No wireless cameras. No winch. No issues. I have a winch and would use if car couldnt be driven but I see no reason in a street car to use the winch for routine loading on an open trailer. This really isnt that complicated.
Old 10-14-2017, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lmnsblu355
My procedure on my featherlite open with GT3 or Boxster:
1 Connect trailer to tow vehicle hitch, safety chains, breakaway tether. Set up trailer ramps and race ramps.Remove drivers side trailer fender.
2 Drive the car up onto the trailer and stop when nose of car just behind tire rack. Turn off car.
3. set park brake and leave in gear. Get out if car.
4. Strap down with Macs tie downs thru wheel.
5. Put car in neutral with parking brake engaged.
6. Put trailer fender back in place and latch.

No spotter. No wireless cameras. No winch. No issues. I have a winch and would use if car couldnt be driven but I see no reason in a street car to use the winch for routine loading on an open trailer. This really isnt that complicated.
+1. I make sure I'm lined up with the ramps and the car is straight by getting out and looking but otherwise just drive up there. Also, you only need about half a tire on the ramp so if you are lined up in the middle of the ramp you have way more leeway than you think you do. It's not like if 1/2 an inch of tire is off the ramp the car will somersault off the trailer.
Old 10-14-2017, 08:14 AM
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Shandingo
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Originally Posted by lmnsblu355
My procedure on my featherlite open with GT3 or Boxster:
1 Connect trailer to tow vehicle hitch, safety chains, breakaway tether. Set up trailer ramps and race ramps.Remove drivers side trailer fender.
2 Drive the car up onto the trailer and stop when nose of car just behind tire rack. Turn off car.
3. set park brake and leave in gear. Get out if car.
4. Strap down with Macs tie downs thru wheel.
5. Put car in neutral with parking brake engaged.
6. Put trailer fender back in place and latch.

No spotter. No wireless cameras. No winch. No issues. I have a winch and would use if car couldnt be driven but I see no reason in a street car to use the winch for routine loading on an open trailer. This really isnt that complicated.
Perhaps I will get better at loading over time. That said a Trailex has a higher deck height than a Featherlight. When I am in the car on the ramps I cannot see where I am at all.
Old 10-14-2017, 11:21 AM
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Kein_Ersatz
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Stick to a set routine, like many things in life, repetition (recipes) make for consistency.

Practice and time will build confidence. Even more "fun" with an enclosed trailer and you get too close to one side or the other. Go slow, stay hyper alert, do not be distracted by others and "things", you will get more comfortable as time goes on.
Old 10-14-2017, 11:49 AM
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ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by lmnsblu355
My procedure on my featherlite open with GT3 or Boxster:
1 Connect trailer to tow vehicle hitch, safety chains, breakaway tether. Set up trailer ramps and race ramps.Remove drivers side trailer fender.
2 Drive the car up onto the trailer and stop when nose of car just behind tire rack. Turn off car.
3. set park brake and leave in gear. Get out if car.
4. Strap down with Macs tie downs thru wheel.
5. Put car in neutral with parking brake engaged.
6. Put trailer fender back in place and latch.

No spotter. No wireless cameras. No winch. No issues. I have a winch and would use if car couldnt be driven but I see no reason in a street car to use the winch for routine loading on an open trailer. This really isnt that complicated.
Featherlight is wider and has a lower deck than a trailex. Easier to drive on - but still, the horror stories and accidents in loading that I have seen at HPDEs are when people drive on.Winch takes 5 more minutes and is much more precise and accident free.
Old 10-14-2017, 06:31 PM
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thekid96
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
Featherlight is wider and has a lower deck than a trailex. Easier to drive on - but still, the horror stories and accidents in loading that I have seen at HPDEs are when people drive on.Winch takes 5 more minutes and is much more precise and accident free.
Plus you can drink a beer while winching it up
Old 10-14-2017, 06:52 PM
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ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by thekid96
Plus you can drink a beer while winching it up
100%
Old 10-16-2017, 10:09 PM
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Mussl Kar
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Easy. Get a remote and winch it up with you standing outside and steering the car. You only need to see one side of the car cuz if drivers side is aligned, same for other side. Trailer must be attached to tow vehicle and if an incline is an issue than a bit of parking brake works well. (curse the electric PB on newer P cars).
DEVELOP A SYSTEMATIC METHOD TO DOING THIS AND DO NOT ALLOW ANY INTERRUPTIONS!
Old 10-22-2017, 01:13 PM
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Frank 993 C4S
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All good advice, especially about developing a routine. Most importantly: Don't let anybody help and don't let anybody distract you.
Old 10-22-2017, 05:37 PM
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One thing to watch for on Trailex and a GT4 is the tire bump stops are high enough that they can play havoc with your front brake cooling ducts when you back off, particularly if you are running a 19" track wheel. Assuming you load front forward, the ducts with go over fine, but due to the shape can catch when backing off. I learned this the hard way.
Old 10-22-2017, 06:42 PM
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LuigiVampa
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In addition to the above comments I always jack up the tongue of my trailer, both loading and unloading, to help the process.

Unloading, it helps the car to roll off the trailer.

Loading, it helps to control the car if you are winching it on. Never, ever, winch a car onto a trailer is at a down angle.
Old 10-23-2017, 12:28 PM
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docwyte
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Same as the other guys. I use race ramps, so I have about the same length ramps as you to get the car up on my Featherlight open trailer.

I installed stop blocks so I know where to put the car on the trailer, no guessing and I don't have to worry about running into my storage box.

It's really not hard to pull the car onto and off the trailer solo with the ramps. I don't even have a winch on my trailer, although I'd like to add one.

I don't load/unload the trailer in the dark by myself tho, that seems like tempting fate...


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