Enclosed trailer, loaded interior pictures
#1
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Thread Starter
Enclosed trailer, loaded interior pictures
Does anyone have pictures of a Boxster loaded into a 20 ft, 22 ft and/or 24 foot enclosed trailer. Specifically, I'm interested in the clearance from the front bumper to front wall/base cabinets when loaded and secured for transport. Pics of space behind the car would be a bonus as well.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Here are some rough numbers for a base 24' w/o cabinets, and empty. The rear axle is at ~ 8' as measured from the rear. Park your rear boxster axle on top of it. Boxster wheel base is again ~ 8'. Now take your car measurements, axle to bumper, and you should be close enough for government work. HTH
#5
Rennlist Member
Go 24'. You almost never see a 20' for sale. The rare one you see is because the owner is upsizing to 24'. Better resale. If Audipowers is still available, that's nice price. Escape door is a nice option though.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I saw the pics from Audipwr1. Looks like the car is pulled very far forward. That leaves alot of the extra room gained from a 24 (vs 20) behind the car. To use that space, whatever is stored would have to be removed before the car is unloaded.
I know conventional wisdom is to pull the car forward to get the engine between the 2 axles. But with a mid engined boxster with 46% F/ 54%R weight distibution, wouldn't it be possible to position the car further back? At least farther back than a 911...
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's all about tongue weight, correct? If so, wouldn't a car parked closer to the back of the trailer be balanced by putting spares/ Tools etc upfront to achieve appropriate tongue weight for the tow vehicle??
I've been inside a 20 ft and it is definitely tight with a boxster loaded (with front base cabinets). I'm leaning toward a 22 ft (Upper cabinets only) for multiple reasons (storage space at home/ maneuverability in parking lots, less weight) but I want to at least be able to walk in the side door and access my gear in front of the car.
I drew rough sketches on the 22 and 24 ft templates and its obvious that positioning the car with the rear axle just behind the rear wheel on both, there is only one extra foot infront of the car in a 24 vs 22. Even with a 22, there is still 30 inches of floor space "wasted" behind the car.
Based on this, is there really much advantage to a 24 over a 22?
I know conventional wisdom is to pull the car forward to get the engine between the 2 axles. But with a mid engined boxster with 46% F/ 54%R weight distibution, wouldn't it be possible to position the car further back? At least farther back than a 911...
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's all about tongue weight, correct? If so, wouldn't a car parked closer to the back of the trailer be balanced by putting spares/ Tools etc upfront to achieve appropriate tongue weight for the tow vehicle??
I've been inside a 20 ft and it is definitely tight with a boxster loaded (with front base cabinets). I'm leaning toward a 22 ft (Upper cabinets only) for multiple reasons (storage space at home/ maneuverability in parking lots, less weight) but I want to at least be able to walk in the side door and access my gear in front of the car.
I drew rough sketches on the 22 and 24 ft templates and its obvious that positioning the car with the rear axle just behind the rear wheel on both, there is only one extra foot infront of the car in a 24 vs 22. Even with a 22, there is still 30 inches of floor space "wasted" behind the car.
Based on this, is there really much advantage to a 24 over a 22?
#7
Regardless of which length or company you pick the beaver tail length and drop could be affected by the escape door and its size. Keep in mind that any extra weight placement will be a big factor on car placement as well as capability of opening the driver door to get out.
I have a GT4 and place my rear axle on the trailers rear axle (empty trailer - no cabinets, etc). It could stand to move a little more forward (to be rectified with future weight placement) but then I wouldn't be able to open my door fully to get out. I have an Intech which has the 120" big escape door versus the Raven you are looking at only has a 88" escape door.
I have a GT4 and place my rear axle on the trailers rear axle (empty trailer - no cabinets, etc). It could stand to move a little more forward (to be rectified with future weight placement) but then I wouldn't be able to open my door fully to get out. I have an Intech which has the 120" big escape door versus the Raven you are looking at only has a 88" escape door.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Regardless of which length or company you pick the beaver tail length and drop could be affected by the escape door and its size. Keep in mind that any extra weight placement will be a big factor on car placement as well as capability of opening the driver door to get out.
I have a GT4 and place my rear axle on the trailers rear axle (empty trailer - no cabinets, etc). It could stand to move a little more forward (to be rectified with future weight placement) but then I wouldn't be able to open my door fully to get out. I have an Intech which has the 120" big escape door versus the Raven you are looking at only has a 88" escape door.
I have a GT4 and place my rear axle on the trailers rear axle (empty trailer - no cabinets, etc). It could stand to move a little more forward (to be rectified with future weight placement) but then I wouldn't be able to open my door fully to get out. I have an Intech which has the 120" big escape door versus the Raven you are looking at only has a 88" escape door.
Good point about the escape door. Regardless of trailer size, the door is centered over the axles. As you see in my sketches, I'll likely be aligned with the escape door with the current car position or a few inches forward/ back of where I have the car located. I'd like to get the car as far back as possible but you're right that to use the escape door, it will have to be forward enough to clear the rear edge of the door.
#10
Actually I was talking about the forward edge, the hinge side of the door if you reread my post again.
#11
Rennlist Member
I bought my trailer used, but if I was going to build one from scratch, the escape door and AC prewired and framed would be on the top of the list. So much easier to get out of the car, and putting in an aftermarket AC is easy and much less expensive. Inground winch might be nice depending on what else you're storing up front, but inground spare doesn't make sense to me. Can't get to it when you really need it. A friend did the gas tank and pump, and never uses it. cabinets and generator compartment and you're good to go. All the other stuff you can add as you go. And yes, the 24 is worth it, because you always end up needing more room than you thought you would. Even an extra foot makes it a lot easier to get down and tie the car down, etc.
#12
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Thread Starter
Also, the Raven is produced with C-channel instead of full tube sections for some of the structure. Third member on the front A frame for Quest, not Raven and available extended A-frame length on Quest. My dealer claims wall thickness of the tubes is different but I don't have confirmation. Hinges and hardware are lower quality on the Raven. Upper and lower trim are thinner on Raven.
I looked at a Raven and Quest next to each other and decided to spring for the extra $3.5k to upgrade to the Quest. I figure I'll get most of that back on resale. The way I've outfitted the Quest, not much different than a CH plus 24 ft.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So you're saying you can't get the car any more forward. Why would you want to move forward unless your tongue weight is light. Easily solved with gear at the nose of the trailer, No?
#14
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Thread Starter
Seriously, I understand why 18- 20 ft is too short. But I'm not sure what else I would put in the 24' that won't fit in a 22'.
Anyone with a 22 ft that can chime in?? Positive and negative experiences welcomed.
#15
Rennlist Member
Yes, by my argument a 40' would be better than 20', but at some point you have to factor in storage, towing, etc. like you say. Well I would say the 24' is most popular for a reason, it's the best compromise. You just don't see many 22'ers. There's a reason the CH comes in 24 and 28'. That's what sells. IMHO it will be difficult to resell a 22'. Gets tight even for a tool chest, etc because of where most cars would need to be placed.