New SPB Build - some questions on steering column/lock and seats
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New SPB Build - some questions on steering column/lock and seats
Hi all - just sold my 944 SP2 car to move up to SPB. I've got a car that I'm starting to build out but was looking for some guidance on how to remove the steering wheel lock without blowing up anything in the igntion switch/immobilizer regions? Any guidance would be appreciated. Car is a 99.
Also - this is a bit of a cross post, but currently the locking function on the telescoping steering column isn't holding. Anyone 1) have any idea on cause and/or fix, or 2) Do people disable this on their race cars and lock (weld?) the column in the preferred position? Or do you generally just let the stock function do the trick?
Finally - seat question. I'm recycling my Sparco EVO III seat out of the 944 and plan on using Sparco sliders (personal preferance). I see that OG has some Brey Kraus brackets to adapt the stock mount to the sliders, but has anyone run into an issue with this seat fitting in the car? It's a pretty wide seat. I also see that people may use offset brackets (looks like 2 lefts or vice versa rather than a left and a right) to provide clearance from the tunnel. Anyone tried this?
Thanks in Advance.
Also - this is a bit of a cross post, but currently the locking function on the telescoping steering column isn't holding. Anyone 1) have any idea on cause and/or fix, or 2) Do people disable this on their race cars and lock (weld?) the column in the preferred position? Or do you generally just let the stock function do the trick?
Finally - seat question. I'm recycling my Sparco EVO III seat out of the 944 and plan on using Sparco sliders (personal preferance). I see that OG has some Brey Kraus brackets to adapt the stock mount to the sliders, but has anyone run into an issue with this seat fitting in the car? It's a pretty wide seat. I also see that people may use offset brackets (looks like 2 lefts or vice versa rather than a left and a right) to provide clearance from the tunnel. Anyone tried this?
Thanks in Advance.
#2
I disassembled the steering lock and removed the locking mechanism, but kept the key tumbler and switch (to protect the car from my grandkids).
All in all, not too difficult.
All in all, not too difficult.
#3
Rennlist Member
Consider replacing the ignition switch while you're in there. It's a cheap part (~$20) prone to failure. It's a lot more difficult to access once everything is re-assembled.
I didn't alter the telescoping function of my steering column. It works fine and I like the adjustability.
Wide seats can fit with the right brackets but height can be a challenge. My seat is a Sparco Evo II US. I'm not tall (5'9") but did not have enough height for sliders. Look for side-mount brackets that have lots of holes to allow you to get the seat as low as possible. I have the Brey-Krause side plates but had to drill new holes to lower the seat. Sparco or Planted make brackets that offer more adjustment than B-K. If you can't get the side mount brackets to align with the factory seat mount holes, you can add a bottom mount plate from Planted and bolt side mount plates to the bottom plate.
I didn't alter the telescoping function of my steering column. It works fine and I like the adjustability.
Wide seats can fit with the right brackets but height can be a challenge. My seat is a Sparco Evo II US. I'm not tall (5'9") but did not have enough height for sliders. Look for side-mount brackets that have lots of holes to allow you to get the seat as low as possible. I have the Brey-Krause side plates but had to drill new holes to lower the seat. Sparco or Planted make brackets that offer more adjustment than B-K. If you can't get the side mount brackets to align with the factory seat mount holes, you can add a bottom mount plate from Planted and bolt side mount plates to the bottom plate.
#4
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I just cut off the the actual lock that protrudes into the column. Remove the entire switch assembly (with the key in it) once out of the column? Pull the key out. Once out? The actual lock will jump out of the assembly. Cut it off flush with the assembly (you'll see it) and reinstall. I agree about replacing the VW/Audi ignition portion of the switch (round black multi connector)