Goughary

I have everything soaking in pb blaster. So didn't get far today. Wheels off, Hub nuts cracked with my favorite tool- 1:3 torque multiplier...cracks hub nuts like they are quarter drive...

On the docket: elephant sport bushings all around, spring plate bushings, also elephant, top hats, ball joints, tie rods, h&r swaybars, and new wheel bearings. Rehab all the cv boot, Clean everything...reassemble.

Five cars total. All getting the same treatment.

jpar

Looks like you have a lot going on over there. Good luck.

Boeing 717

I tried to loosen the nuts on my turbo rear hubs and broke 3 ratchets. Gave up finally.

C4inLA

Pls explain the wrench? Do you step on it? Grab with both hands like a 4 way lug remover? And how will you re-torque to 337 ft lbs?

Subscribed to this thread ... Not enough of DIY suspension change/upgrades threads to be found Please share some pics of strut/spring disassembly/reassembly if possible. Curious on how you'll set basic camber and toe well enough to drive to alignment shop....

Goughary

The way to retorque is to set a half inch tor 112 lbs. it's a 1:3 torque multiplier. Last time I did it, I set it to 115 figuring there should be a little loss through the wrenches. But it's a great tool to have, because you can crack anything loose, and then for retorque of the hub nuts, no more bouncing on a four foot pipe. You can do it with a half inch drive torque wrench.

There are a ton of suspension threads. Not sure if mine will hold water...

This should be fun though. Some will be more difficult than others. Winter is coming....

As to alignments. I may buy or borrow some alignment equipment and just do it myself, though it's way easier on an alignment rack. If I don't pick up some equipment, I'll do it with string to get things close enough to drive. Old school...

-nick

5 cars? A laser alignment setup would pay for itself.

Torque multiplier sounds like a fun gadget. I managed to get my hubs loose with heat and breaker bar/pipe combo. Was a major pain.

Fyi- my cheap pelican boots are completely toast after 4 years. I have replacement factory booots for a winter project. Wish I would have gone that route from the beginning.

I'm curious to hear your h&r sway review on the c4. I managed to run away from the a/x competition this year and I just have the c2 rear upgraded bar and kwv3. I'm done with the suspension. And I'm still holding the car's potential back with driver mistakes.

Enjoy!

crg53

Great undertaking and good to see all you guys working together.
I noticed in most of the pictures showing the car up on stands, that you don't havea "safety net" under the car. Personally I would NEVER work under a car with nothing solid stopping it from dropping down in case a stand fails. Maybe just my paranoia, but I would hate to see any of you get hurt.

Goughary

All four wheels go under the car for this purpose.

That said. These esco stands are way overkill for a car of this size and weight. So failure is very unlikely. However, I'm an old school rock climber (though I haven't climbed in years) so I like to be safe and back things up, double and triple check..so good call!

Goughary

Tie rod removal. Cracked nut. Spindle spins freely. Nut ain't coming. Pb blaster and an Allen to hold it...a little wire brushing...

More to come later. Back to work.

jpar

If you're replacing the tie rod, just jam a fork in there, it should hold it from spinning.

Goughary

Air gun did it. I was suprised to find there is no Allen on the spindle to hold it from spinning

Goughary

He has the oem clips to hold the pad wear sensors. I like zip ties more. These get in the way.

Goughary

Second try to upload the pic

Goughary

First, I broke all the bolts loose, just to get that out of the way and to be sure nothing was going to be too much a headache. Then unclip all the little stuff.

Goughary

Then, I grabbed a spare bleeder I had lying around...removed the hard line from the braided brake line, and used the bleeder to cap off the braided line. This will keep the brake fluid from dripping out. There's a lot of brake fluid in a C4.