2022 Turbo S with 7000 miles
So 4 years in and foolishly low miles, dealer is hitting me up for 4 year service. Its had oil changes so I dont really think there is much to do beyond a brake flush. Your thoughts?
I'm just about like you - 2022, 6,700 miles. Went into the dealer a couple of times last year for an intermittent cluster error - was still in warranty. At that time the service manager brought up the 4 year service for over $4K
Included new spark plugs, air filters, cabin filter, brake flush, on and on. Now normally I do all my own maintenance as I have all the lifts, tools and scanners - but seriously, do all of this at 6,700 miles? - please. I guarantee they'd be replacing plugs, filters and such that look near brand new. With 30 or 40K on the clock, sure some merit. Since it was already there I had a brake flush done which was reasonably priced. The cluster errors appeared to have been a slightly low voltage issue with the battery - started the car just fine, but some of the other modules didn't like it. Since it was 4 years old - I had them replace and code it. Normally batteries of any type don't last more than 4 years in Texas. So I'm pretty pragmatic about my ownership - if it needs it, it gets it, but I'm just not doing a blanket parts swap of good parts for good parts for no reason. Had them do all TSBs and upgrade the PCM / car module software. Little over $2k total - but that's all that needed to be done.
Last edited by Rocket_boy; Apr 13, 2026 at 08:44 PM.
Every tech I spoke with has said the same thing, mileage is the key for plugs not time. Ill have to take mine in for the windshield gasket this summer so Ill probably do the brake flush at that time as well, perhaps check alignment too.
The cluster errors appeared to have been a slightly low voltage issue with the battery - started the car just fine, but some of the other modules didn't like it. Since it was 4 years old - I had them replace and code it. Normally batteries of any type don't last more than 4 years in Texas. So I'm pretty pragmatic about my ownership - if it needs it, it gets it, but I'm just not doing a blanket parts swap of good parts for good parts for no reason. Had them do all TSBs and upgrade the PCM / car module software. Little over $2k total - but that's all that needed to be done.
Yes - it seemed to start the car just fine (current / amps) but the voltage drop during a start was a bit low - making a few modules complain. After the change it seems to be fine. There are some kits to convert it from the Li battery to a more conventional, cheaper AGM battery albeit a bit heavier. I chose to just renew it with the same Li version to keep it original as it came.
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I was under the impression that the lithium iron batteries were actually better and longer lasting. Is that not true?
I was told that the spark plugs were also a matter of mileage, not time.
What does Porsche charge for a brake fluid flush? I already did the oil change at a local shop.
I was told that the spark plugs were also a matter of mileage, not time.
What does Porsche charge for a brake fluid flush? I already did the oil change at a local shop.
I was under the impression that the lithium iron batteries were actually better and longer lasting. Is that not true?
I was told that the spark plugs were also a matter of mileage, not time.
What does Porsche charge for a brake fluid flush? I already did the oil change at a local shop.
I was told that the spark plugs were also a matter of mileage, not time.
What does Porsche charge for a brake fluid flush? I already did the oil change at a local shop.
There seems to be many issues with the Li batteries from Porsche. The AGM Banner batteries I had in other P-cars were great. I just swapped out my 18 Panamera OG battery, after 8 years and the only reason I did was during a battery test I did it said full charge but battery health was Poor. Figured I got more than the expected use out of it. When I start seeing any battery issues in the 22 Im going with the conversion kit and probably another AGM. I haven't looked at the brake fluid res to see how the fluid looks, if its not cloudy at all then its fine.
I believe it has to do with no thread lube and the aluminum threads seizing into the spark plug threads.
The plugs themselves are fine, very likely.
The brake fluid flush is cheap, $350 cdn. They have a machine that flushes it out in one motion, very easily.
The plugs, you could probably push that service a bit, especially outside of warranty, but I would error on the side of caution. (Ive changed mine twice now, 28,000km)
I think your talking about galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. 10 years in the P car game and I haven't heard of this yet with the plugs. Not saying Im going 10 years but I dont see it as a major concern. Ill have to make a decision at some point as 30,000 miles is probably a good 4 years away at the current use pattern
Ahhh, the good ole spark plug change debate! From my experience, I’d go with miles vs. time, unless you have a highly modded car. I swapped out the plugs on my R8 at just shy of 5 years with under 10k miles and all 10 plugs looked practically brand new.They were very easy to remove and were factory torqued to around 25-30 Nm. Spark plugs will not seize to aluminum cylinder heads unless there’s something else going on inside. At the end of the day, do what helps you to sleep at nights.




