Can someone tell me what I should expect to pay for a brake fluid flush from the dealership?

Unsure when it was done last on my GT3, and would like to have this performed once it wakes from its winter slumber.

TIA!

-Andy

 

I’m in the Seattle area, paid $300 at the dealership last year for my 991.2 GT3. If I recall, Porsche indie shops around me weren’t much cheaper.

 

If you're half handy, and can remove the wheels very easy job. Maybe $30 dollars in materials, then all labor.

$300 seems fair for a car with centerlocks.

 

I agree.
I had the dealer do it (along with other 20k/2yr items) as a baseline since the car was new to me and I bought a 5yr Porsche VSP contract. Trust me, paying $1k oil changes aren’t ideal but doing best to suck it up and use the dealer for now.

 

Not sure about the dealership, but my local indy charges $125-$150 for a flush with Motul RBF600. Its an easy job to do at home too if you have the tools. I'd do it at home, but I use the 6 month flush schedule (track use mandated) as an excuse to take the car to the indy for an inspection at the same time.

 

I have a Motive Power Bleeder, do I need something else? I do the brake job on my 993 myself and my other guys, but I wasn't sure about doing it myself on a car like this. I also am not sure how I would properly torque the wheels. I know that the centerlock nut is in the frunk, but what are you guys using to get proper torquing?

Thanks,
Andy

 

The centerlock removal tool/socket requires a 3/4 inch drive wrench. You need a big long 3/4 inch drive breaker bar to remove the centerlock nut and and a big long 3/4 inch drive torque wrench capable of torquing to over 400 ft lbs to replace it. You also need Castrol Molub-Alloy Past T/A for the nut and hub threads. As I recall, I spent a bit over $600 for a proper breaker bar and torque wrench (you can spend more). You can't carry them around with you so heaven forbid you puncture a tire out on the road badly enough that you can't get it re-inflated. Time to call Porsche roadside service. There are YouTube videos showing Porsche centerlocl wheel removal and install.

 

Skip the 6' breaker bar and torque wrench combo. Get a Nutcracker HD torque multiplier and use a regular torque wrench. Comes with a nice case and stores in the Frunk.

Also $30 for brake fluid for flush 🤦🏻‍♂️ you want to use ~ 1qt, I use RBF660 but a lot of people swear by Castrol SRF

Peter

 

Isn't that a $900 tool? Guess I should call the dealer and see what they want to charge me, as well as the local Indy that I trust.

Thanks,
Andy

 

I think in terms of working in my garage shop, thus the 3/4" drive breaker bar and torque wrench. The Nutcracker is an excellent alternative, and not a whole lot more epensive. Cost is 765 Euros ($890 US) plus shipping. You can also spend $4,995 for a HYTORC Centerlock Torque Gun, made specifically for Porsche centerlocks, that does it all, including the two step torque procedure when reinstalling. Both will fit nicely in the frunk, and might come in handy under an absolutely perfect Venus & Mars aligned circumstance, but if you puncture/cut a tire out on the road that can't be sealed and reinflated, you'll still be calling for for a hauler to get the car to your shop of preference. That is unless you want to jack the car, remove the wheel and leave your car on the side of the road while you Uber to the nearest well stocked in high performance tires (and open) Michelin dealer.

 

Skip all of that and just get the Nutcracker Pro torque gun. It's much cheaper than the HYTORC, and is actually faster.

I've been changing wheels on the GT3 using the long breaker bar/torque wrench combo over the past 5 years and have become very efficient using that, taking only 10-12 minutes to change out all 4 wheels with a helper holding the brakes. I recently picked up the Nutcracker Pro and changed all 4 wheels yesterday in 6 minutes, and didn't even break a sweat doing it.

If you change your wheels more than a couple times a year, this thing is a game changer.

 

Second vote for the Nutcracker HD torque multiplier - it’s so much nicer to use a normal sized 1/2” torque wrench with the multiplier than the giant 3/4” by itself. I started with the Precision Instruments 3/4” kit and later upgraded to the Nutcracker - wish I would have just skipped the 3/4” kit.

 

OK, guys. You talked me into it. I’m ordering the Nutcracker pro tomorrow.

 

If only there was a simple solution where you could loosen or tighten 5 bolts.

 

It's same process as 993 (aside from Centerlocks). Both GT3 and 993 use Brembo calipers (and both have 130 inch-pound torque spec for bleeder valves).

I also use the Nutcracker tools for Centerlocks.