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Appreciate it, I see the front right has the A/C line opening, what about the front left?
I was going to run the rear reservoirs inside strapped to the roll bar to keep them away from engine heat.
Appreciate it, I see the front right has the A/C line opening, what about the front left?
I was going to run the rear reservoirs inside strapped to the roll bar to keep them away from engine heat.
Both fronts are on the same bars. Identical other side, I can take a photo if you want?
The rears are fine as they are, even after track time they never feel hot?
Both fronts are on the same bars. Identical other side, I can take a photo if you want?
The rears are fine as they are, even after track time they never feel hot?
Sorry I mean where the hydraulic line enters into the frunk area/ You ran the FR through the AC line grommet negating the need to drill a hole to pass it through. Is there a hole on the FL as well?
The shock canisters will run very hot when the suspension is working hard. Hot as in approaching 200F. The last thing you wanna do is put them in a hot engine compartment. For one, the extra heat will be hard on the longevity of the canister internals and they will be boiling hot if you need to make quick adjustments. With that said, back in the days on my street car I had the rear canisters mounted on the rear cage tubes. The hoses were routed thought the ABS grommet under the shelf carpet. In the front I mounted the canisters directly to the carpet in the corners of the front trunk. The hoses were routed through the front portion of the wheel well in the front. When mounted this way, both the front and rear adjusters are easily reached for adjustments on the fly. I route the canister the same way on my race car to make adjustments quick and easy. Alternatively you can mount the front canisters on the strut brace. The only downside it that it's exposed to the elements and they are hidden behind the plastic covers on a street car.
The shock canisters will run very hot when the suspension is working hard. Hot as in approaching 200F. The last thing you wanna do is put them in a hot engine compartment. For one, the extra heat will be hard on the longevity of the canister internals and they will be boiling hot if you need to make quick adjustments. With that said, back in the days on my street car I had the rear canisters mounted on the rear cage tubes. The hoses were routed thought the ABS grommet under the shelf carpet. In the front I mounted the canisters directly to the carpet in the corners of the front trunk. The hoses were routed through the front portion of the wheel well in the front. When mounted this way, both the front and rear adjusters are easily reached for adjustments on the fly. I route the canister the same way on my race car to make adjustments quick and easy. Alternatively you can mount the front canisters on the strut brace. The only downside it that it's exposed to the elements and they are hidden behind the plastic covers on a street car.
REAR:
FRONT:
HOSE ROUTING IN WHEEL WELL
CLOSE UP OF HOSE ROUTING IN TRUNK
Thank you as usual. I assume the 997 chassis would be similar. I would go just look at the car myself but I am away for a while. Also your pic reminded me to finish the ctsr cup ps pump setup install, its not as useful sitting on the desk.
The rears were what I was most curious about. Pics help a ton
Today, 12:14 PM
Coilover External Reservoir Routing
