When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Intercooler removal, any tips for drivers side 09' CTTS
Hi all,
I have my plans all laid out for front-end modification; the only thing is, the front-end is not playing nice. I managed to get the passenger IC out... been in fights that did not last as long and were more pleasant. I looked at removing the headlight tray, but it seems that there is a section that envolves undoing the bumper bar assembly. Will reserve for last resort. That goal is to make room to run 34's for Overland build and 285/40-22's on road. Battle Rejuvenationg as I go, fin straightening(what can be done...) and full steam clean with a fresh radiator satin coat after.
The left over piece of the lower IC bolt... it snapped removing it and no manner of reasonable extraction worked. Lost an extractor bit(Matco) 4 drill bits and my cool. Currently the boss looks like an ant farm reclamation project. Oh yea and 1 bent punch. FFS SMN. Well will see how the new JB Weld works... And no, this is not a broken tap, it is a drilled from all sides OEM bolt. Crying a little.
Getting the drivers side out is pretty straightforward from what I remember. You could disconnect from the charge pipes (by the aribox) and take it ou all in one piece.
Getting the drivers side out is pretty straightforward from what I remember. You could disconnect from the charge pipes (by the aribox) and take it ou all in one piece.
oh, well so far nothing has been straight-forward lol. I looked at it for an hour before noticing the screws you mentioned being visible on the pass side. There are so many hoses, wires, lines, in this CTTS angles just dont see possible much less visible lol. A storm just rolled in so I will revisit tomorrow. I will have time to kill, giving JB Weld time to cure. I saw a couple videos where guys pulled the wheel liner and had the IC out in 2 bolts... later I saw they had the entire front radiator frame off the car... sneaky guys.
That being said if... I could remove the coolant pipe on the drivers front side, maybe could get at the 2nd boost coupler screw. The truely sad part is, it took me 10 mins to do my modification after 1.5 hours to remove and 2 hours to drill out broken bolt. I need a drink.
Well it seems there is no conceivable way to remove the driver IC without pulling the entire radiatir suppot bracket and everything else off the front end. Need a cool down break.
Drivers side done. Not for those who arent well tempered. It was all but impossible to get to the front most screw. If you find yourself considering removing these from your CTTS, I would suggest you abandon the thought. Luckily a good buddy came to assist and we managed it through un-natural methods... I will not do this again.
When I changed the engine on mine getting that driver's side pipe from IC to TB back in was amazingly difficult. The little hell hole the charge pipe fits through in the frame rail has SO MUCH other stuff in it. If only the air conditioning pipe was bent a little differently or the power steering pipe could be pushed out of the way it would have been only regular impossible to do instead of actually impossible. The passenger side was a breeze in comparison.
PS, my driver's side charge pipe under the hood did not have that screw installed when I got the car and I was not able to install it as I recall.
You are spot on. Angle is unacheivable, so many things in the way and have no wiggle room. The most in the way item was the 2 loomed cables that go to the core wall from the engine and then back out to the engine side... Thought about relocating them, but no, I am out. Final work accomplished using a long bit extension and a T27 on a 20 degree angle, not pretty, but effective enough. And yes, the passenger took 10 mins to remove, clear sight to the 2 screws that mate the upper plastic pipe.
You are spot on. Angle is unacheivable, so many things in the way and have no wiggle room. The most in the way item was the 2 loomed cables that go to the core wall from the engine and then back out to the engine side... Thought about relocating them, but no, I am out. Final work accomplished using a long bit extension and a T27 on a 20 degree angle, not pretty, but effective enough. And yes, the passenger took 10 mins to remove, clear sight to the 2 screws that mate the upper plastic pipe.
If you don't have extra long torx drivers, invest in a set. They're + painters tape r time savers. This is my go to..
I have nearly every tool one could get from a tool truck and the toolbox. I would love to know how it could be done free from cursing like a madman lol.
Well, it seems someone had a trick for these screws and lost one... I found it with electrical tape on the lower frame guard. The previous owner had Allen head screws connecting the IC to the upper boost hose at some point it seems. If I ever have this messed with again I may have them do it. Back together the mod gave about 12mm more clearance for the oversized tires. Perfect!
07-02-2024, 06:57 PM
Intercooler removal, any tips for drivers side 09' CTTS
