87 five speed throw out bearing
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
87 five speed throw out bearing
Well got the car from the body shop, got home and a lot of noise from the rear of the engine, we think it is the throw out bearing. No history on the car so could be original, approx 158k miles on the car. Any good write ups on the clutch replacement?
dan
dan
#2
Team Owner
Dan, its not likely that the TOB has lasted this long.
NOTE the TOB runs at engine speed the whole time the engine is running.
Without adding fresh grease every so often,
the bearing will eventually use up the grease , and fail
the pressure plate fingers will wear off, and fail.
the release arm bushing will disintegrate ,
the pivot point on the release arm /TOB will wear flat.
The guide tube will get slop in the tube to bearing ID.
Also to note the pilot bearing will also need to be replaced.
The stub shaft may also have wear on the splines that requires replacement,
part of the wear is due to lack of spline grease, and corrosion due to moisture.
NOTE the TOB runs at engine speed the whole time the engine is running.
Without adding fresh grease every so often,
the bearing will eventually use up the grease , and fail
the pressure plate fingers will wear off, and fail.
the release arm bushing will disintegrate ,
the pivot point on the release arm /TOB will wear flat.
The guide tube will get slop in the tube to bearing ID.
Also to note the pilot bearing will also need to be replaced.
The stub shaft may also have wear on the splines that requires replacement,
part of the wear is due to lack of spline grease, and corrosion due to moisture.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well this is the first I have seen about servicing the TOB, how often and with what grease Pilot bearing means the flywheel will need to come out also? Does the TT have to be moved back like my 924S?
Dan
Dan
#4
Team Owner
NOTE usually servicing means swapping in new parts instead of regreasing,
as you dont get the low grease warning till the parts have worn beyond the regreasing limit,
and make lots of grinding noises, nor are they made for regreasing.
Regreasing means drilling a hole in the bearing shield if you can see it and injecting grease .
NOTE all of this requires clutch pack removal and as such,
new parts are usually installed due to the complexity of the parts involved.
I like to move the TT /transaxle back,
I let it slide on the 4 bell housing bolts that I leave about 3 turns from out.,
then remove the 2 trans mount bolts,
this then gives you the clearance to drop the clutch pack without hammering the alignment pins out of the way.
This may be more critical for the dual disc system,
your 87 has a single disc, the extra clearance makes it easier to RnR the parts.
NOTE if your gonna replace the slave make sure to get the one for your year,
as the 86 and earlier, and the 87 on are different,
the 86 wont give enough release on your 87.
Now is also the time to remove the convoluted flex line / hard line to the slave and replace it with the flexible line ,
GB or Roger are both making these lines,
this upgrade makes bleeding all the air our of the system a snap with minimum fluid loss.
NOTE the thrust bearing will be the part that is resisting the hammering,
if you decide you want to hammer on the alignment pins.
as you dont get the low grease warning till the parts have worn beyond the regreasing limit,
and make lots of grinding noises, nor are they made for regreasing.
Regreasing means drilling a hole in the bearing shield if you can see it and injecting grease .
NOTE all of this requires clutch pack removal and as such,
new parts are usually installed due to the complexity of the parts involved.
I like to move the TT /transaxle back,
I let it slide on the 4 bell housing bolts that I leave about 3 turns from out.,
then remove the 2 trans mount bolts,
this then gives you the clearance to drop the clutch pack without hammering the alignment pins out of the way.
This may be more critical for the dual disc system,
your 87 has a single disc, the extra clearance makes it easier to RnR the parts.
NOTE if your gonna replace the slave make sure to get the one for your year,
as the 86 and earlier, and the 87 on are different,
the 86 wont give enough release on your 87.
Now is also the time to remove the convoluted flex line / hard line to the slave and replace it with the flexible line ,
GB or Roger are both making these lines,
this upgrade makes bleeding all the air our of the system a snap with minimum fluid loss.
NOTE the thrust bearing will be the part that is resisting the hammering,
if you decide you want to hammer on the alignment pins.
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davek9 (05-19-2024)
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So working on this, to pull the starter you have to drop the sway bar! Also not sure about these MSDS headers, might be an issue! It’s never easy!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well Merlin if I am going to push the TT back with the transaxle would this be the time to send the TT to Constantine for a rebuild? That’s what I did with my 87 924S last year when I had to replace the clutch.
Dan
Dan
#7
Team Owner
yes it would
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#9
Team Owner
yes drop the rear cross member then the TT/ transaxle as a unit,
make sure to remove the rear pinch before you drop the assembly.
make sure to remove the rear pinch before you drop the assembly.
#11
Rennlist Member
#12
Team Owner
and this bolt being in ,
will prevent separation of the TT / Transaxle.
NOTE this reminder is being offered for all the mechanics that forgot to remove that pinch bolt and found out later .
NOTE the TT/ trans must com apart with no side loading as the input shaft can be broken
best to leave the 4 lower bolts in with them loose about 2 turns,
then see if the parts will separate
will prevent separation of the TT / Transaxle.
NOTE this reminder is being offered for all the mechanics that forgot to remove that pinch bolt and found out later .
NOTE the TT/ trans must com apart with no side loading as the input shaft can be broken
best to leave the 4 lower bolts in with them loose about 2 turns,
then see if the parts will separate
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
See the rear pinch, got the lower bell housing off, with the starter and slave cylinder. Going after your rear pinch bolt next. Also both front pinch bolts. Pulling the exhaust and cross plates. The rear crossmember looks very daunting!
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, at this stage, what do I remove to get the clutch pack out? And the slave cylinder arm what holds it up on top? I got the two lower 17mm bolts that hold the TT to the bell housing and if I can get the splined shaft out I can get to the upper two bolts.
Need to get the clutch out, how?
Need to get the clutch out, how?