Chrali

I have a metallic blue with havana(?) leather 125k mile 2006 CTTS that made a clacking bore scoring noise last year. Really was loud, sounded like a sick diesel from 15 feet away and you could always hear it from the drivers seat when you slowed to a stop. I added some Luqi Moly hydraulic tappet cleaner which made it run immediately much quieter, even to now having to put your head on the bonnet to check if it was making the noise. That was about 2,500 miles ago and the noise hasn't got any worse, the plugs are not oil fouled and the no misfires are reported. I would say the car's used approx 1.5 liters of oil over that period, with fast road driving. It doesn't sound like bore scoring in person as when you blip the throttle the revs rise as normal, but as the revs fall then you hear the more of a clatter but a noticeable split second being the falling revs. A local specialist said timing related and engine out, but I'd have to think long and hard about that as although the interior is mint, the exterior shows its miles and its a CTTS that needs brakes. Electrically its sound but throws an occasional Camshaft P0011 Position “A” - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) although before the tapper cleaner that fault was pretty much springing up on every drive when slowing down from motorway speed.

Has anyone come across a situation where there is a clacking bore scoring noise that (a) wasn't bore scoring and (b) didn't require the engine to come out?

I've never really go that into my CTTS and I rarely have time to use it (I still miss my 2004 BMW 760 that had no issues strangely enough) but we have a rescue black labrador now so an estate, or SUV would now be of use.

I'd not have problem changing brand for a 2008 Audi Q7 4.2 TDI, 2008 MB GL 420 V8 diesel, Land Rover 4.4 TDV8, Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Ecodiesel (if I get past that stupid foot operated parking brake) or outside choice; due to significant extra cost, Land Cruiser 200 V8 4.5 diesel.

BUT

These would liklely cost more to buy than getting a rebuild engine into the CTTS, but would be a bit newer.

Any advise is welcome.

deilenberger

a. No
b. No

Petza914

Any chance you have a lazy / worn timing chain tensioner on the bank that's throwing codes. If the chain is going slack at times it will make a racket like a chain being pulled across something. Initially that would be rubbing on the tensioner paddle plastic but if it wears through that will rub on the metal paddle itself and make a terrible noise. Is the noise worsen or more consistent right when you start the car before then tensioners have pressurized, especially if the car sits for a while (days) between drives.

NelaK

What is with the recent spate of Cayenne's with mechanics saying they have timing issues?

Anyways - has the car been borescoped? If the scoring is as bad as the sound suggests, it might be visible by now and that would definitively tell you whether the engine is repairable or if it needs a rebuild.

Avec

I am in the midst of a very similar issue. During a 900 mile weekend, I noticed louder than normal mechanical noises. I added some SeaFoam to the oil (which has helped stuck lifters and tensioners in a couple other cars in the past) and checked compression. Cyl #4 showed way down dry, but fine wet. At the same time I replaced the plugs and coils. There was no evidence of oil fowling on any plugs, and when I checked the oil yesterday, it hadnt burned any oil after 2500 miles. To make it more confusing, the mechanical clacking / ticking I heard is now gone. I checked that cylinder twice, but it was the most difficult to to access, so it may have been confirmation bias since I had heard the noise and expected the worst. I plan on retesting the compression to see what is going on. I will also send an oil sample to be analyzed.

Hoping for the best for me and you.

oldskewel

Considering how easy it is to pull spark plugs and put an endoscope in there, I would not conclude bore scoring until I saw the actual scoring with my own eyes.

You may still have scoring, and it may be below the piston, so not yet visible, but still, I would not give up until it is certain. Then I'd surrender like a Frenchman.

Morganmobile

The French don’t surrender, they very nicely lend their land to other countries to play war on.

dr914

I agree, minor problem!!!!

nodoors

If you are not that into it, then just get rid of it. Life is too short to mess around with one of these complex machines if it isn't worth it to you. This is not the last expensive headache it is going to give you. Also, skip the Jeep Grand Cherokee... piles of junk that Chrysler refuses to support. I can't imagine why anyone would want to own one as a 'foreign car' where parts are not plentiful and cheap. You probably say the same thing about Land Rovers, though!

oldskewel

Even if selling it, some diagnosis to hopefully rule out bore scoring would increase the selling price from near zero to a much better price.

Chrali

After years of chasing more and more bhp I've suddenly grown up (long overdue as I'm 49 and now they're all just cars. My previous car was a BMW 760 V12 LWB, it was my DD and I hammered the snot out of it. It was still just a car. The CTTS is also nice, but to me still just a car. It's like the buying process was more always fun to me than the ownership one.

I have discounted the other options including the JGC; but for my sins I did own a Jeep Commander CRD with a GDE HOT tune that I called my sport truck.

There's a company in Poland that rebuilds Porsche and Maserati engines that seems to have good reviews and at a dramatically lower cost than I've found in the UK which makes the car saveable, but I've also put it up as spares and repairs on Ebay for a reasonable price. Its a chicken and the egg situation, in that I didn't want to spring for brakes if I was selling it due to the engine being duff, but it needs brakes for the MOT (UK roadworthiness test)

If it doesn't shift on Ebay, then it's off to Poland with it at some point.
If it does shift, then I may get another, as I could get a cleaner one with less miles.

Perhaps rather than spending hundreds+ on getting the timing checked, getting a refreshed engine could be a more cost-effective route longer term and give the chance to do other things like getting engine mounts done, etc.

So just how tired is a well serviced 4.5 V8 @ 125k miles?

Cheers again guys.

J'sWorld

Not very tired @ 125k IMO. The p011 could be due to a lazy cam solenoid. Rattling on decel could very well be a chain issue such as a worn guide or failing tensioner. The tensioner is really easy to get to and not too much $. Have the cam deviation checked and make sure you get the data for actual vs. requested.

Chrali

Ok, I've got an iCarsoft PORII so I've got the following results at idle.
Camshaft, specified angle bank1 16.5
Camshaft, actual angle bank1 -0.5
Intake camshaft deviation 5.0
Camshaft, specified angle bank2 16.5
Camshaft, actual angle bank2 -0.5
Other camshaft deviation not recorded (don't know why)

Does this help?

Chrali

The CTTS goes in for its MOT tomorrow so I'll get an idea of its overall fitness. Perhaps I'll get lucky and the brakes are an advisory again

Not to prejudice the CTTS but I've just tested a 2006 Mercedes GL420CDI. It's a total boat but will be ideal for what we need i.e. large dog car and motorway cruiser. Specs below for infomation to US members, as I don't think that engine made it to the states.

Price when new:£63,872
Engine:3996cc 32V V8, 302bhp@3600rpm, 516lb ft@2200rpm
Transmission:seven-speed automatic, four-wheel drive
Performance:7.6sec 0-62mph, 143mph, 25mpg
Weight / material:2550kg/steel
Dimensions (length/width/height in mm):5088/1920/1840