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I’m several hours into it and I’ve run across several broken items and a potential roadblock.
First, when removing the coolant plug on the engine block, I noticed a small line had broken off from the exhaust manifold. What is this line?
Next thing i noticed is that is that when I unbolted the alternator, there was a brown wire hanging loose. What does this connect to?
Last but definitely not least, when I crawled under the car I noticed the lid to the clutch housing is gone?! So...I guess I’m roadblocked because I can’t insert the flywheel lock?
And the wire should be connected to the oil level switch mounted in the oil pan where it protrudes beyond the front of the block. Call Roger Tyson @ 928sRUs for help locating a bell housing cover quickly so you can mount the flywheel lock. If no one in DFW has a spare to sell the 1/2 off sale at 928 International isn't that far off.
The metal female connector should be tucked up inside rubber cover, which pops onto a lip around the pin on the oil pan cover when pushed onto pin. Your’s looks bent/twisted which may be why it’s not attached (I’m not sure if the level warning is a make or break to ground - did you have a permanent warning before starting the job, or could you have yanked the wire off?).
Not to worry though - I found a small butt type connector which crimps onto that wire after you cut off old connector, and is a perfect tight fit on the level switch pin.
Here's a photo of the pin terminal on the oil pan, and one of the original connector within rubber cover on engine loom — you can see the rubber 'ears' which let you pull rubber cover over lip around pin on the oil pan.
Thanks for the helpful responses. I found a lower bell housing cover and I'm waiting for it to be delivered. I'm planning on fixing some of the other items this weekend. More questions below:
Originally Posted by Landseer
A ball bearing can be inserted later to block the hole.
So I should be able to just plug this connection and a ball bearing is the best way to do that?
Originally Posted by ammonman
And the wire should be connected to the oil level switch mounted in the oil pan where it protrudes beyond the front of the block.
Originally Posted by StratfordShark
+1 on the oil level switch.
The metal female connector should be tucked up inside rubber cover, which pops onto a lip around the pin on the oil pan cover when pushed onto pin. Your’s looks bent/twisted which may be why it’s not attached (I’m not sure if the level warning is a make or break to ground - did you have a permanent warning before starting the job, or could you have yanked the wire off?).
Not to worry though - I found a small butt type connector which crimps onto that wire after you cut off old connector, and is a perfect tight fit on the level switch pin.
A little confused on where this wire should connect. Should it connect on the inside or outside of the oil pan?
So I should be able to just plug this connection and a ball bearing is the best way to do that? The original cap nut has a hole in it to allow for the tubing that originally terminates on top of the engine beside the air box. After you remove your remaining section of tubing, the easier way to seal it is with a ball bearing, which seals both the orifice and also the cap nut with the hole in it.
A little confused on where this wire should connect. Should it connect on the inside or outside of the oil pan? The connection is on the top front outside "ledge" of the oil pan more to the left side of the car
To add to the above answer about the ball bearing plug. That plug can be held in place with a wormgear hose clamp, covering over the plug and around the exhaust pipe. At least that's how my plugs are held there. Not the prettiest, but effective. I'll try and get a pic this weekend if it's still unclear.
10-20-2018, 07:52 PM
Fun times with my first TB/WP job
