Aaargh!! Overheated my car!
05-22-2018, 07:12 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Aaargh!! Overheated my car!
Damnit!! Took my car on a ride and noted my water temp just above the lower white markings, thought it was strange but on a 30 year old car also thought maybe an electrical gremlin. Well, needle got to just a few millimeters from the red zone and then the big red ! light came on, was on for maybe 20 sec while I got out of the 1st lane and off the street, turned her off and coasted to shade under a tree.
forgot to tighten a hose near the reservoir under the MAF!!!! Fruck!!
Undid the MAF (damn hose was covered by the MAF), tightened it and filled her up with water and started right up.
Anyone with experience know if I may have marginalized something? What components are typically affected by an overheating episode like this??
thanx
forgot to tighten a hose near the reservoir under the MAF!!!! Fruck!!
Undid the MAF (damn hose was covered by the MAF), tightened it and filled her up with water and started right up.
Anyone with experience know if I may have marginalized something? What components are typically affected by an overheating episode like this??
thanx
05-22-2018, 08:22 PM
#2
Instructor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lansing, MI
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Impossible to tell without some time spent running. Keep an eye on things like coolant level before and after a drive, check oil for signs of coolant mixing. You may have a hg failure you may not but generally if it was brief and low rpm overheat, and not extreme... should be ok. Best thing from here is observe what your engine is doing good luck.
05-22-2018, 09:41 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Among other things, cylinders can get scored and head gaskets can get over-squished (then leak when the motor cools), from the parts expanding too much, but if you weren't revving the motor or boosting and caught it in 20 seconds, I'd be surprised if you did any damage...
05-23-2018, 03:39 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Whew! Seems to be all ok. Yeah it was quick and the needle didn't get close to the red zone at all. I've been driving her around, nice pick up/acceleration, fun to drive after new rod bearings, new turbo, new seals all around. I think I've got a TPS problem as the car wants to turn off when I ease off the go pedal. Like when i'm in third gear around 3K rpm and suddenly have to slow down, so I put in the clutch take my foot off the accelerator and the engine just drops below 200rpm and often just dies, sometimes it will "catch" itself and idle at 800-850 range. I'll need to bench test the TPS. I did the venturi delete, all new silicone hoses, made sure all vacuum lines are new and sealed at each end etc.,
thank you guys!!
Jaime
thank you guys!!
Jaime
05-23-2018, 12:29 PM
#5
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
go rent a coolant pressure tester from your auto store "just in case" and keep an eye on the gauge while driving in the future, watch for sudden spikes or fluctuations above normal range signifying bad HG.
touching the red zone is about 240 F, HOT but maybe still "ok" for a short time.
touching the red zone is about 240 F, HOT but maybe still "ok" for a short time.
05-26-2018, 06:30 PM
#7
Drifting
Now the rpms drop till about 1100, pause for a milisecond, then fall to proper idle speed. No more dropping too low & coming back up
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05-26-2018, 11:48 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi Dan!
Yes, I followed Lindsey Racing instruction (on their website) to adjust idle. So, I jumped that round connector behind the drivers side shock tower after the engine was warm ( I could not get the engine to stay at idle with the wired jumped as recommended, so I went for a drive, got her nice and warm, then jumped the connections). I was surprised that the car was barely idling at about 300rpm's. At this point I backed out the throttle body bolt til I got to 800rpm's. Now its so much better, but still have a drop out here and then. I'm a little dubious that its all ok now because apparently, according to Lindsey Racing, the expected amount of backing out from full closed bolt position is 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. I had to turn it about 2.5 full turns counterclockwise to get it at 800. Gotta do some more playing with it......
Jaime
Yes, I followed Lindsey Racing instruction (on their website) to adjust idle. So, I jumped that round connector behind the drivers side shock tower after the engine was warm ( I could not get the engine to stay at idle with the wired jumped as recommended, so I went for a drive, got her nice and warm, then jumped the connections). I was surprised that the car was barely idling at about 300rpm's. At this point I backed out the throttle body bolt til I got to 800rpm's. Now its so much better, but still have a drop out here and then. I'm a little dubious that its all ok now because apparently, according to Lindsey Racing, the expected amount of backing out from full closed bolt position is 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. I had to turn it about 2.5 full turns counterclockwise to get it at 800. Gotta do some more playing with it......
Jaime
05-27-2018, 12:21 AM
#9
Drifting
Hi Dan!
Yes, I followed Lindsey Racing instruction (on their website) to adjust idle. So, I jumped that round connector behind the drivers side shock tower after the engine was warm ( I could not get the engine to stay at idle with the wired jumped as recommended, so I went for a drive, got her nice and warm, then jumped the connections). I was surprised that the car was barely idling at about 300rpm's. At this point I backed out the throttle body bolt til I got to 800rpm's. Now its so much better, but still have a drop out here and then. I'm a little dubious that its all ok now because apparently, according to Lindsey Racing, the expected amount of backing out from full closed bolt position is 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. I had to turn it about 2.5 full turns counterclockwise to get it at 800. Gotta do some more playing with it......
Jaime
Yes, I followed Lindsey Racing instruction (on their website) to adjust idle. So, I jumped that round connector behind the drivers side shock tower after the engine was warm ( I could not get the engine to stay at idle with the wired jumped as recommended, so I went for a drive, got her nice and warm, then jumped the connections). I was surprised that the car was barely idling at about 300rpm's. At this point I backed out the throttle body bolt til I got to 800rpm's. Now its so much better, but still have a drop out here and then. I'm a little dubious that its all ok now because apparently, according to Lindsey Racing, the expected amount of backing out from full closed bolt position is 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. I had to turn it about 2.5 full turns counterclockwise to get it at 800. Gotta do some more playing with it......
Jaime
Hey Jaime!
There’s something fishy about that 1/2 turn... After a vac leak test blew soap bubbles from that adjustment bolt area, I installed a new bolt. Before removing the old one, I counted turns and set the new one to start aprox the same. From there, it wasn’t much to get to equal speed ICV in or out.
About 2.5 turns, just like yours.
Just like adjusting carb on the 2 60s Beetles I ran for years
The only thing I found weird was my tachometer hooked up to the coil reads 800, the dash reads 900, and the idle seems to behave how you’d expect.