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I started getting the click/no start issue with my car recently, as reported in quite a few posts going back many years. I have a good battery, had it double checked recently, and decided to check what’s going on. Usually the click happened randomly when the engine was cold. But last night I pulled over, warm engine, and after 3 clicks it started and I went home determined to clean all contacts and if needed order a starter and replace it.
Today I removed the battery, and the positive cable connection to the post that goes into the firewall. Pull red tab out, and the female connector comes off. Sprayed with Crc cleaner on both ends. Went under the car, removed panel, plastic cap shielding the solenoid, removed the 2 13mm and one 10mm nuts, cables were clean but I sprayed Crc and retightened them snug to ensure a good connection, suspect is the one on the right that goes into the starter from solenoid. I had already prepared to remove the starter, put the u-joint and extension and 11mm socket together, had no trouble reaching the dreaded upper bolt to remove the starter but decided i’d try starting the car to see if it was indeed a bad contact issue. Sure enough, it cranked right up ��
So so in my case it looks like the 13mm nut that tightens the wire from the solenoid to starter must have been the culprit. I also loosened, cleaned and tightened down the negative/body connectors by the battery and the one behind rear wheel next to the side muffler. Drove around, started the car a few times and will check once again tomorrow with a cold engine. My thinking is that at the dealer they would move to just replace the starter instead of tightening,cleaning connectors.
Pics aren't great, it was a bit dark under there, sorry. Will double check tomorrow, car is also under battery tender 24/7
With the car jacked and ramps under the wheels for safety, it isn't too bad to get under there. I have an old pillow, really helps to get comfortable, even when changing plugs the other day. A lift would have been nice :-)
Cold start this morning, no more click click click
I Believe it was the connector from solenoid to starter(the braided one), 13mm nut
Feels really good to have tackled this issue. If it returns I'll order a new Bosch, install it and post DIY
Starter has been working ever since. I believe the nuts weren't tight enough, especially the 13mm one from solenoid to starter braided cable-
Feels great to just turn the key and crank
Pics aren't great, it was a bit dark under there, sorry. Will double check tomorrow, car is also under battery tender 24/7
With the car jacked and ramps under the wheels for safety, it isn't too bad to get under there. I have an old pillow, really helps to get comfortable, even when changing plugs the other day. A lift would have been nice :-)
I went through all this a couple of weeks ago but unfortunately it didn’t work for mine. Ordered a new Bosch and fitted it yesterday .The new starter spins so much faster and no more clicks
Months later everything is still fine with mine, glad to see you took care if yours
its a pity that it wasn’t just a bad connection like yours, but the car has had 5 battery’s since new with each only spinning the starter for 12- 18 months, so when I saw your post I thought Ah Ha, sounds like my cars problem, but unfortunately not the case. I will get the old one reco’d and shelve it in case it happens again.
5 batteries? I stepped up to a bosch AGM, it's larger and around 900 amps if I recall. Fits flush with the entire tray, a bit heavier of course. That battery was replaced under the 4 year warranty after just 2 years. I now have a new ctek tender-perhaps it works better than the other one I had-or, batteries do go bad I suppose.
There are other threads about the starter issue, some people buy a heavier duty one, not sure the brand. But I'd personally stick with Bosch/Oem like you did
5 batteries? I stepped up to a bosch AGM, it's larger and around 900 amps if I recall. Fits flush with the entire tray, a bit heavier of course. That battery was replaced under the 4 year warranty after just 2 years. I now have a new ctek tender-perhaps it works better than the other one I had-or, batteries do go bad I suppose.
There are other threads about the starter issue, some people buy a heavier duty one, not sure the brand. But I'd personally stick with Bosch/Oem like you did
Unfortunately the symptoms of a bad battery and a bad starter are virtually the same, and with a brand new battery the starter worked fine, however after 12-18 months the dreaded Click Click would return.I took back the 18 month old 770 AH battery that I put in and it tested OK but not perfect, so they replaced it with a new one and no clicks for a few months, hence the confusion. It`s the middle of winter here and as we all know battery`s don`t like the cold,and the new one did it again after only a couple of months. So it seems it was a bad, but not totally stuffed starter which was the problem. I purposely ran the battery down to under 12 v yesterday and it started up straight away with the new starter, whereas the old starter needed 12.7v minimum to not click.
Yeah there's nothing better than a new starter and battery-at the slightest indication of an issue i'll replace it. Certainly bizarre that a bad connection caused my issue-
I'm sure you're happy with things now
Yeah there's nothing better than a new starter and battery-at the slightest indication of an issue i'll replace it. Certainly bizarre that a bad connection caused my issue-
I'm sure you're happy with things now
03-16-2018, 03:46 AM
Starter click
