JNOSOL's 991.2 GT3 - OCD DIY Thread
(Journal of Jimmy's OCD photos and DIY instructions)

My 2018 911 GT3 Specs:
White
PDK
Leather/Alcantara Package in Black/Red - Red Stitching
Extended Range Fuel Tank
4-Way Seats with Seat Heating
Front Axle Lift System
HID PDLS Headlights
Light Design Package
BOSE Surround Sound System
Carbon Fiber Interior Package
Audo-Dimming Mirrors with Integrated Rain Sensor

Initial Impressions:
Coming from a 991.1 GTS with KW HAS suspension, the ride of the GT3 is just slightly more aggressive (maybe 10% more). It is a bit noisier compared to the GTS (some enjoyable noises). The howl of the NA engines starts around 3,700 RPM which is amazing. Lots of awesome mechanical noises, drivetrain, pumps, gears, clutch engagement. I can't wait to break her in to rev to 9k RPM. This motor has tons of low end torque and very responsive. Very usable without needing to rev past 6k to get enjoyment. The 991.2 GT3 PDK is nothing like the 991.1 GTS PDK, it's noisier (sounds like a bag of marbles crunching) and it acts more like an on/off switch than smooth engagement. The shift is super snappy and very enjoyable to manually shift. PDK is the best DCT on the market for good reasons.

Styling, it's very debatable but a GT3 needs a wing. The GT3 wing blends in with the rest of the styling perfectly, not out of place like some big OEM wing. One drawback is looking at rear view mirror, it drives me a bit crazy no being able to see the full rear view. I learned to use the side mirrors.

I highly recommend the 4-way seats unless you only plan to track the GT3. It's super comfortable and my understanding it's 30LB lighter than the 18-way per seat. I thought about LWB, a lot, but it's not practical if you do use it almost daily. Getting in and out is a b*tch and there's no heated seated for cold drives. Sure it looks great and slightly better resale value, but I didn't buy this car to look at or buy it for the next lucky guy (or gal).

Few photos:



Winter Setup - Signature SV104 Royal Gold with Michelin Alpin PA4 N1
20x9 ET44 front and 20x11.5 ET40 rear
245/35/20 and 295/30/20




Short Cuts:
Sidemarkers DIY: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14685874
AWE Tuning Foiler Wind Diffuser DIY: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14685982
Valentine V1 / Blendmount Hardwire DIY: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14688081
Cleaning and Maintaining Alcantara: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14706440
Soul Performance Center Muffler DIY: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post14801629

Instagram: sig_gt3
(Please don't PM me for wheels inquiry, we have a Signature RL commercial account for that)

991.2 GT3 Side Markers Replacement DIY
Replace those hideous pumpkin lanterns
Tools Needed: Small Flathead screw driver and masking tape
Parts Needed: https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...1LEDSIDES.html
(don't buy the cheaper eBay ones, it might not be LED and won't fit right)

Side Markers Lights - LED (991, 981, & 718) - #SKU991LEDSIDES



Step 1: Mask around the old light to protect the paint
Step 2: Use a flathead crew driver and push the front of the light back with an action lifting the light away from the car (the clip is spring loaded), the light should pop out



Step 3: Unclip the old light, the clip is on the back side of the plug



Step 4: Clip the new light on and slide into position. (the passenger side wire is very short, so be careful not to rip the wire)
Step 5: Enjoy

AWE Tuning Foiler Wind Diffuser DIY
The 991 mirrors moved to the doors, which allows wind to enter the cabin at an odd frequency. This creates a "booming effect" and can destroy your ear drums at high speed with windows down (aka track use). The AWE Tuning Foiler Wind Diffuser pushes the air further back and away from the edge the windows = less wind buffer and booming effect. It works, I took this from my last 991.1 GTS.

Parts Needed: http://www.awe-tuning.com/awe-tuning...-wind-diffuser
Tools Needed: Plastic pry tool and T-20 / T-15 screw driver



Step 1: Open the door and pry the corner trim piece upwards



Step 2: Locate the T-20 screw and remove it completely. Be careful not to drop it into the door panel or this 10min DIY becomes 2hrs. Put masking tapes where the screw could potentially fall if you're worried.



Step 3: Prep the new Wind Diffuser, for visible screws type: https://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf...Foiler_1.4.pdf
Step 4: Pull the OEM external corner piece up and remove.
Step 5: Install the AWE Tuning Foiler Wind Diffuser
Step 6: Tighten the T-20 screw from the inside and slide the small trim piece back in place. Repeat the other side.

Enjoy the Buffer Free Zone

Valentine 1 / Blendmount - Hardwire DIY
Parts Needed
Valentine V1: https://store.valentine1.com/store/closeup_20015.asp
Blendmount: https://store.blendmount.com/blendmo...ies-p1784.aspx
Fuse Tap - ATC Type: Local autocrats like Autozone, you'll need a 10a ATC fuse if it doesn't come with it.

Tools Needed: Plastic Pry Tool, Wire Splice / Crimp, and 10mm socket / rachet

Step 1: Prep your Blendmound with re-using the V1 bracket supplied


Step 2: Remove the mirror wire plastic covers, pull down hard on 1, then 2 can be pry apart.
(#2 clips are fragile, but it's fine it you break a couple clips. Everything will go back without you noticing.)




Step 3: Remove the passenger side fuse carpet cover.
Pull the rubber door seas that's hold it, pop the covers off with your hands and carefully pull the entire cover off which runs along the right of the glove box. Once you reached the top clip, just pull downward.
(the black rubber door seals requires a little muscles to pull up, be careful of tar getting on your nice Alcantara.)

Step 4: Run the flat telephone wire supplied by the V1 kit.
Run along the edge of windshield tucked under the head liner using a flat plastic pry tool to help tuck the wire, down to the passenger side, and loop to the right of the glove box area through the carpet fuse panel that was removed and to the fuse area. For the Mirror area, you'll want to leave a 6" slack to connect to the V1 later.
(I was too lazy to remove the A-pillar panel, so a little wire exposed was fine with me. It will be a project for another time to remove the A-pillar panel)



Step 5: Connect the V1 hardwire kit supplied to the fuse tap.
Black wire with the folk needs to be grounded. There's a 10mm screw on the left of the fuse box and can be seen when the fuse carpet panel is removed. The screw color should match your car's color. Remove that crew and slide the ground folk in there and tighten (don't over tighten).
Red wire goes to the fuse tap with a wire crimp.



Step 6: Connect the fuse tap to fuse slot D2 (switched spare fuse slot). You'll need a 10a fuse on the fuse tap.
Then connect the flat telephone flat cable to the V1 hard wire kit. Put the carpet panel and black rubber door seals back in reverse order it was removed. (top clip slides up, the rest pushes in)




Step 7: Install the mirror wire covers back the reverse order it was removed.
There's no cutting for the wire to fit, your mirror wire cover has a slot for the flat telephone cable to run through. Connect to the V1 and enjoy.