This is a pretty easy job. You remove 3 5mm allen bolts inside the door jamb (obviously with the door open as wide as you can get it).

The old doorstop can be pulled out via any of the metal door cutouts that you can reach your hand through. I'm not small so I needed to remove the three interior door panels to get my hand in there.

Then you put the new doorstop back into the location of the old one and tighten back the 3 allen bolts. Then reinstall the 3 cosmetic interior panels.

Total time: 58 minutes.

If you can beg, borrow, or steal a 5 mm ratchet to use instead of the plain 5 mm allen wrench, you'll cut that time down considerably.




*Also shown below are the old and new doorstops side by side.




=========================================

Now my passenger door stays open when I open it, instead of self-closing itself! Big change in how "heavy" the door feels when opening/closing now, too.

 

Note the slight curve of the arm when installing ....

 

Totally missed that. Guess I've got a 50/50 shot of it being in there properly.

How would it behave if it is wrong compared to right?

 

For search purposes, the pn is: 92853703304 door check bracket 77-95

 

I am not sure , never did one wrong

 

Thanks for the write up. This is is on my 'next to do' list when I order my next container of parts from the USA.

Cheers, Myles

 

Cross-linking to my main 928 tales thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/455561-jumping-the-shark.html

 

The curve should be outwards (concave towards interior of the car, convex towards outside) - you can see it if you look closely.

 

Thanks. I managed to get it right through sheer luck.


Now when the 2nd doorstop arrives in my mail, I'll get the driver side door right through knowledge instead of luck!

 

i would strongly suggest you buy the door stop, a new pin, and a new gasket for the thing.

Replace them all together

 

I have done several of these, and never removed the bracket from the door jamb. Pull out the vertical pin as shown above, then unbolt the unit from the inside of the door itself. Makes the time even shorter.
Also, while I'm at it, I've found that these are rarely "worn out". The old grease becomes so rigid that it builds up in the depressions and prevents the rollers from making contact with the depressions. IF you simply remove all the old grease in the mechanism (I use Brake cleaner), then coat the flat part with an excellent grease, such as Super Lube, then re-install, you'll find the system works beautifully. Of course, no guarantee - but it has always worked for me (on six '88 to '94 cars). YMMV!!!

Gary Knox
West Chester, PA

 

There's no pin or gasket on either side on my 88. Just 3 allen bolts and 1 door check on each side.

The door check is too large to come out via the door jamb opening on my 88, so you've got to pull it out through the door via the metal cutouts behind the interior panels.

But it's a very easy job, even with removing the interior door panels. They unbolt and pop off rapidly.

 

Take a look below at the side by side photo of the old door check next to the new door check.

On the old door check, notice the white interior is missing, as is the white wedge on top.

Grease won't bring that back!

 

I certainly agree, your old check is beyond "refurbishment"!! Thanks for a nice write-up for anyone who is considering the job.

Gary Knox

 

I still don't know about the "pin," but I found the gasket that you mentioned above.

My bad. I just didn't see it sticking to the inner door panel after I had removed the passenger side door check.

Today my other door stop arrived, so I installed it on the driver side (noting the correct curve this time!).

The *old* driver side door check was missing the inner white wedge just like the failed passenger door stop, so both exhibited similar symptoms in failure.

No need for a second picture. The one above pretty well shows what goes wrong when a door check/stop meets its end.