Engine cut out; won't start again
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Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 393
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From: Denmark
Waited 1½ hours until end of workday and the bloody thing started right up. Managed to get home without further ado.
Main suspects now are fuel pump and keyless entry (from PO, which I'm not using). Priority one for me now is to get the fuel pump checked and the keyless entry removed.
Really hope I can get this sorted quickly; have no qualms at all about driving in an old car (in good shape), but absolutely hate when you feel you can't trust it and it's likely to fail at any moment.
Thanks all for the input and suggestions; very much appreciated !!
Edit: In a situation like Peter describes; what would be likely to fail first ? - fuse or relay ? (so far the fuse has survived)
Cheers,
Erling
Main suspects now are fuel pump and keyless entry (from PO, which I'm not using). Priority one for me now is to get the fuel pump checked and the keyless entry removed.
Really hope I can get this sorted quickly; have no qualms at all about driving in an old car (in good shape), but absolutely hate when you feel you can't trust it and it's likely to fail at any moment.
Thanks all for the input and suggestions; very much appreciated !!
Edit: In a situation like Peter describes; what would be likely to fail first ? - fuse or relay ? (so far the fuse has survived)
Cheers,
Erling
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From: Phoenix AZ
If the fuel pump was spiking to high current the fuse should go first... if its jamming or slowing but not massively over current - you'd have fuel starvation but if the fuse didn't blow the relay should be fine. Maybe the alarm is flaky (factory alarm?).
The factory alarm disables the EZK ECU (spark system) relay - this also diables the fuel pumps via the LH ECU (injection system) since it won't supply fuel unless there is spark.
You can diasble this 'imobilizer function' by linking pins N11 & Q12 on the Central Electric (fuse) Panel. Thats: Plug N bottom left pin and Plug Q 2nd pin up on left. When it cuts out again see if linking these pins reenables it.
Alan
The factory alarm disables the EZK ECU (spark system) relay - this also diables the fuel pumps via the LH ECU (injection system) since it won't supply fuel unless there is spark.
You can diasble this 'imobilizer function' by linking pins N11 & Q12 on the Central Electric (fuse) Panel. Thats: Plug N bottom left pin and Plug Q 2nd pin up on left. When it cuts out again see if linking these pins reenables it.
Alan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 393
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From: Denmark
Hi Alan, thanks for the info.
Must see if I can figure out what you're suggesting next time I have the problem.
- do you just use a small piece of wire to connect the pins ? (Sorry if I'm asking silly questions, but trying to diagnose problems in elderly supercars is quite new territory for me... 
)
Car has a factory alarm and immobilizer as far as I can tell from the (German) instruction manual. When I lock the doors, there's a red flashing light in the top of the small 'locking pins' in each door (dunno what these are called in English)
However, car also has a keyless entry system that the previous owner got installed. When I was about to set out on my journey home from Germany with the car, it wouldn't start. In that case, all turn indicators were flashing, indicating that the immobilizer of the keyless entry had been trigged.
Got it switched to 'manual', where you're supposed to turn it on/off with a small sender (which I don't have, as it apparently got lost somewhere between the PO and the dealerships handling the car). Haven't seen the flashing lights again, but still not certain that the system isn't involved in the problem.
According to the PO, the keyless entry never worked well, and personally I would never trust that it actually locks the car once I get sufficiently far away from it, so I'd prefer having it removed.
Cheers,
Erling
Must see if I can figure out what you're suggesting next time I have the problem.
- do you just use a small piece of wire to connect the pins ? (Sorry if I'm asking silly questions, but trying to diagnose problems in elderly supercars is quite new territory for me... )Car has a factory alarm and immobilizer as far as I can tell from the (German) instruction manual. When I lock the doors, there's a red flashing light in the top of the small 'locking pins' in each door (dunno what these are called in English)
However, car also has a keyless entry system that the previous owner got installed. When I was about to set out on my journey home from Germany with the car, it wouldn't start. In that case, all turn indicators were flashing, indicating that the immobilizer of the keyless entry had been trigged.
Got it switched to 'manual', where you're supposed to turn it on/off with a small sender (which I don't have, as it apparently got lost somewhere between the PO and the dealerships handling the car). Haven't seen the flashing lights again, but still not certain that the system isn't involved in the problem.
According to the PO, the keyless entry never worked well, and personally I would never trust that it actually locks the car once I get sufficiently far away from it, so I'd prefer having it removed.
Cheers,
Erling
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From: Phoenix AZ
Erling,
Yes temporarily you can use a wire - insulated with the ends stripped back - inserted into the back of the plug alongside the terminal & wires. If it helps you can do something more permanent later. The plugs are labelled by letter on the board and on the plug...
Yes if the KE module doesn't work remove it - it is likely connected to the alarm module under the passenger seat - look under the sill cover on the passenger side (where the hatch release **** is) - this is a common install locations (esp is the amp has been replaced/removed) of you may at least be able to see where the wiring goes.
(To actually get to the alarm you have to take the seat out...)
If later you want to add a good KE system - it is particulary easy on your car to do it (properly!) - let me know - not expensive to do...
Alan
Yes temporarily you can use a wire - insulated with the ends stripped back - inserted into the back of the plug alongside the terminal & wires. If it helps you can do something more permanent later. The plugs are labelled by letter on the board and on the plug...
Yes if the KE module doesn't work remove it - it is likely connected to the alarm module under the passenger seat - look under the sill cover on the passenger side (where the hatch release **** is) - this is a common install locations (esp is the amp has been replaced/removed) of you may at least be able to see where the wiring goes.
(To actually get to the alarm you have to take the seat out...)
If later you want to add a good KE system - it is particulary easy on your car to do it (properly!) - let me know - not expensive to do...
Alan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 393
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From: Denmark
Thanks again Alan,
Left the car at home today, until I can get a car-electrician to look at it and hopefully check the fuel pump.
What I would really like is just a simple remote control activating the central locking (and thus the factory alarm/immobilizer). Do you have any recommendations in this regard ?
Cheers,
Erling
Left the car at home today, until I can get a car-electrician to look at it and hopefully check the fuel pump.
What I would really like is just a simple remote control activating the central locking (and thus the factory alarm/immobilizer). Do you have any recommendations in this regard ?
Cheers,
Erling
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From: Phoenix AZ
Erling,
Yes thats what my car has - the factory alarm is excellent - esp. the version on your car - if it works don't mess with it right (if it works is maybe tbd?). Anyway then the KE does just that - controls the factory alarm's unlock/disarm and lock/arm functions (mine also opens the hatch). Then the KE or the keys can be used interchangeably. In my opinion its the best AND the easiest way to go.
Search under Keyless Entry and you will find lots of examples.
As I noted your year ('91-'95) is the easiest of all to do and has the most features when done.
Alan
Yes thats what my car has - the factory alarm is excellent - esp. the version on your car - if it works don't mess with it right (if it works is maybe tbd?). Anyway then the KE does just that - controls the factory alarm's unlock/disarm and lock/arm functions (mine also opens the hatch). Then the KE or the keys can be used interchangeably. In my opinion its the best AND the easiest way to go.
Search under Keyless Entry and you will find lots of examples.
As I noted your year ('91-'95) is the easiest of all to do and has the most features when done.
Alan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: Denmark
Thanks again guys,
Ernest: I take it you have to remove the airfilter box to get at the connector you mention ? (I'm not at the car, so haven't been able to look)
Alan: You mention features. One thing I would really like is automatic closing of the windows when you lock/arm the car. Is that possible ? (I have no sunroof, so only the windows to close)
Can't say if the factory alarm works as it's supposed to. Only indication I have is the red light flashing in the door locking pins. Present KE system is apparantly from a marque called 'in.pro'. Have no idea if it has its own alarm hardware/immobilizing circuits, or if it simply activates the already built-in factory stuff.
Cheers,
Erling
Ernest: I take it you have to remove the airfilter box to get at the connector you mention ? (I'm not at the car, so haven't been able to look)
Alan: You mention features. One thing I would really like is automatic closing of the windows when you lock/arm the car. Is that possible ? (I have no sunroof, so only the windows to close)
Can't say if the factory alarm works as it's supposed to. Only indication I have is the red light flashing in the door locking pins. Present KE system is apparantly from a marque called 'in.pro'. Have no idea if it has its own alarm hardware/immobilizing circuits, or if it simply activates the already built-in factory stuff.
Cheers,
Erling
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