Brake Cooling Duct Upgrade
#18
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Alton, VA and Bethania, NC
If you do upgrade the ducts we recommend keeping an extra set if you do track days, if you have a high speed off they like to break away.
We keep the 997GT3 ducts in stock @ $14.95 a set, and the 997 turbo rears @ $49.95/set
https://rennpart.com/cayman/cayman-9...pgrades-track/
We keep the 997GT3 ducts in stock @ $14.95 a set, and the 997 turbo rears @ $49.95/set
https://rennpart.com/cayman/cayman-9...pgrades-track/
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#20
#21
Reviving this thread. Have folks measured actual temps on rotor and caliper surface after a track session?
Reason I ask is because I have a 987.2 S (2010 owned since new) with stock brake calipers, stock/textar sport brake pads (same as Cayman R/Spyder), Brembo rotors all around, ATE type 200 fluid, and 997 GT3 front brake ducts, Michelin pilot super sports road tires. I DE my car once or twice a year. At the last PCA RADE event in Road America (it was hot, air temps ~95F+), the front rotor and caliper temps were fine (from memory about 350deg F on rotor face, and 220-50F or so on caliper surface as measured by my laser temp gun). But the rears were about 420-465degF on rotor face and about 300-325F on caliper surface. All measurements done as soon as I came out of 30 min session and parked on paddock after run (with half lap of cool down). Brakes were solid/good over two full days of tracking (four or five - 30 min sessions per day), no fade, solid pedal, etc. Also, all calipers still look "new" red with the white porsche lettering...not the discolored brown look of overheated calipers. So I think they are not "overheating" per se. Although I run group 3, I keep the traction control on as this is my daily and don't want to bork it . This likely leads to the higher temps in rear as brakes are used for vectoring/saving my bacon when I screw up a corner.
But I'm just wondering from the track rats if 1) rear temps are within "normal" range and have nothing to worry about, and 2) what rear ducts I can install (even with some mods/hacking) to keep temps a bit more under control if needed ...for long term caliper longevity, etc. Now I just have the old stock front ducts zip tied in the rear control arms..(someone here did this hack, so why not).
It seems the answer to #2 for cheap is to get the 997 TT rear duct and cut to fit. Anyone has actual temp measurements after a 20 or 30 min track session?
Many thanks!
Reason I ask is because I have a 987.2 S (2010 owned since new) with stock brake calipers, stock/textar sport brake pads (same as Cayman R/Spyder), Brembo rotors all around, ATE type 200 fluid, and 997 GT3 front brake ducts, Michelin pilot super sports road tires. I DE my car once or twice a year. At the last PCA RADE event in Road America (it was hot, air temps ~95F+), the front rotor and caliper temps were fine (from memory about 350deg F on rotor face, and 220-50F or so on caliper surface as measured by my laser temp gun). But the rears were about 420-465degF on rotor face and about 300-325F on caliper surface. All measurements done as soon as I came out of 30 min session and parked on paddock after run (with half lap of cool down). Brakes were solid/good over two full days of tracking (four or five - 30 min sessions per day), no fade, solid pedal, etc. Also, all calipers still look "new" red with the white porsche lettering...not the discolored brown look of overheated calipers. So I think they are not "overheating" per se. Although I run group 3, I keep the traction control on as this is my daily and don't want to bork it . This likely leads to the higher temps in rear as brakes are used for vectoring/saving my bacon when I screw up a corner.
But I'm just wondering from the track rats if 1) rear temps are within "normal" range and have nothing to worry about, and 2) what rear ducts I can install (even with some mods/hacking) to keep temps a bit more under control if needed ...for long term caliper longevity, etc. Now I just have the old stock front ducts zip tied in the rear control arms..(someone here did this hack, so why not).
It seems the answer to #2 for cheap is to get the 997 TT rear duct and cut to fit. Anyone has actual temp measurements after a 20 or 30 min track session?
Many thanks!
#22
I run the exact same brake setup on my car at COTA, and have had very good luck. I'm in the middle run group - never dawned on me that the rears could get too hot - was only concerned and measuring the front. My rear pad wear is incredibly low, same results - brake hood pain looks perfectly new. Curious to hear the answer to this. Next time out I will measure the rear!
#24
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#26
Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.
thanks!
thanks!
#27
Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.
thanks!
thanks!
#28
Originally Posted by tango131
Bumpity. Going to the PCA half day DE at Autobahn Joliet on July 20. Looking for some feedback re rear rotor and caliper temps and if they are "good to go" (i.e., not super high) with my current hack of using stock 987.2 front ducts in the rear (ziptied). I may order the 997 turbo rear ducts from rennstore...but the surface "finned" area of those looks small.
thanks!
thanks!
#29
Last edited by tango131; 07-11-2018 at 11:57 AM.
#30
I'll try to take some this weekend when I do my brake bleed. It's just a hack job, take the old front ducts and put them in rear and zip tie the heck out of them. I think i may have "flipped" them so the "larger" (ie thicker) part of the plastic is facing downward to catch more air from under the car.
edit. this is not my pic. but mine looks something like this pic, but without the GT2 hard plastic duct beneath it. I think I flipped the duct from as it is seen in this pic, so the top of the duct in this pic is now facing down (have to flip and move to other side of car).
https://www.planet-9.com/attachments...s-car-wide-jpg
edit. this is not my pic. but mine looks something like this pic, but without the GT2 hard plastic duct beneath it. I think I flipped the duct from as it is seen in this pic, so the top of the duct in this pic is now facing down (have to flip and move to other side of car).
https://www.planet-9.com/attachments...s-car-wide-jpg