996.1 run this oil?
08-14-2017, 03:44 PM
#16
Race Director
I run T6 in my Rover Disco II V8 due to the flat tappet (read: old) GM/Buick design. The ZDDP protects that engine, and it's an '03 so I would say catalytic converter concerns are generally unwarranted. T6 shouldn't hurt the 996 but without a specific, compelling reason I'd suggest sticking with M1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 for cooler climates and Castrol Racing 5W-50 for warmer.
ZDDP was first added to oil to combat corrosion which affected copper/lead bearing metals. The amount of phosphorus was in the 0.03% range.
Then in the 1950s the appearance of high lift cams was accompanied by an increase of ZDDP to 0.08% to deal with scuffing early in the engine's break in. (When I rebuilt engines I used a special lubricant supplied by the camshaft maker to protect the cam lobes/lifter from scuffing at initial startup.) Engine oil tests were updated to test oils in situations where valve train hardware wear could occur.
It was found higher levels of ZDDP were beneficial at least very early in the engine's life (at and shortly after initial engine startup) but the higher levels of ZDDP resulted in longer term wear.
Starting around the early 70's engines required better antioxidant protection to guard against oil thickening and because ZDDP was cheap it was used in place of phosphorus, with the amount of ZDDP in the 0.10% range.
But because phosphorus is poison to converters ZDDP levels have been reduced since the early 1990's to where it is down to around 0.08%.
All modern oils must pass in addition to the other tests the 2 tests which test for valve train wear.
Modern oils contain nearly the same level of ZDDP which was found to address valve train scuffing/wear at initial engine start back in the 1950's but less ZDDP which was used to combat oil thickening in the 1970's.
There is no reason to run oils with high levels of ZDDP unless one wishes to risk longer term wear or premature converter failure.
08-14-2017, 03:56 PM
#17
Instructor
More ZDDP ain't necessarily better.
ZDDP was first added to oil to combat corrosion which affected copper/lead bearing metals. The amount of phosphorus was in the 0.03% range.
Then in the 1950s the appearance of high lift cams was accompanied by an increase of ZDDP to 0.08% to deal with scuffing early in the engine's break in. (When I rebuilt engines I used a special lubricant supplied by the camshaft maker to protect the cam lobes/lifter from scuffing at initial startup.) Engine oil tests were updated to test oils in situations where valve train hardware wear could occur.
It was found higher levels of ZDDP were beneficial at least very early in the engine's life (at and shortly after initial engine startup) but the higher levels of ZDDP resulted in longer term wear.
Starting around the early 70's engines required better antioxidant protection to guard against oil thickening and because ZDDP was cheap it was used in place of phosphorus, with the amount of ZDDP in the 0.10% range.
But because phosphorus is poison to converters ZDDP levels have been reduced since the early 1990's to where it is down to around 0.08%.
All modern oils must pass in addition to the other tests the 2 tests which test for valve train wear.
Modern oils contain nearly the same level of ZDDP which was found to address valve train scuffing/wear at initial engine start back in the 1950's but less ZDDP which was used to combat oil thickening in the 1970's.
There is no reason to run oils with high levels of ZDDP unless one wishes to risk longer term wear or premature converter failure.
ZDDP was first added to oil to combat corrosion which affected copper/lead bearing metals. The amount of phosphorus was in the 0.03% range.
Then in the 1950s the appearance of high lift cams was accompanied by an increase of ZDDP to 0.08% to deal with scuffing early in the engine's break in. (When I rebuilt engines I used a special lubricant supplied by the camshaft maker to protect the cam lobes/lifter from scuffing at initial startup.) Engine oil tests were updated to test oils in situations where valve train hardware wear could occur.
It was found higher levels of ZDDP were beneficial at least very early in the engine's life (at and shortly after initial engine startup) but the higher levels of ZDDP resulted in longer term wear.
Starting around the early 70's engines required better antioxidant protection to guard against oil thickening and because ZDDP was cheap it was used in place of phosphorus, with the amount of ZDDP in the 0.10% range.
But because phosphorus is poison to converters ZDDP levels have been reduced since the early 1990's to where it is down to around 0.08%.
All modern oils must pass in addition to the other tests the 2 tests which test for valve train wear.
Modern oils contain nearly the same level of ZDDP which was found to address valve train scuffing/wear at initial engine start back in the 1950's but less ZDDP which was used to combat oil thickening in the 1970's.
There is no reason to run oils with high levels of ZDDP unless one wishes to risk longer term wear or premature converter failure.
08-14-2017, 05:59 PM
#19
But why would you run a hydrocracked oil, when you can pay the same amount and run Mobil 1?
08-14-2017, 06:55 PM
#20
Race Director
08-14-2017, 10:08 PM
#21
Drifting
ZDDP=a problem for cats on gas engines .That is an old story that applied to T4 and older formulations - is no longer relevant. We are discussing the current Rotella T6
See a prior Post:
" Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles." It's TBN is 10.6.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/par...-gasoline-oil/
See a prior Post:
" Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles." It's TBN is 10.6.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/par...-gasoline-oil/
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 08-15-2017 at 01:28 AM.
08-15-2017, 12:48 AM
#22
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are you (or the dude who recommended it) assuming the benefit afforded by less viscosity index improvers in the 15w-50 M1 surpasses the Porsche A40 approval of the 5w-50 version of Mobil1?
Food for thought...
08-15-2017, 12:57 AM
#23
I run it my bikes. If I was needing to do an oil change pronto.. I wouldn't hesitate.
08-16-2017, 11:38 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Some people were recommending this oil for 996 Turbos. My research into the oil found it has a high mineral oil content. Porsche calls for synthetic oils only in its engines. It is not even an approved oil for Porsche diesel engine and AFAIK it is not even approved for use with M-B diesels.
My advice is to run an approved oil in your Porsche. There are around 100 to choose from but Mobil 0w-40 is probably the best choice. If you live where it doesn't get that cold you can run 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!) if you are afraid of the "40" weight in "0w-40". (0w-40 oil held up real well in both my Boxster and my Turbo in triple digit heat.)
If you want something in the "5w-40" class of oils there are a number of oils to choose from. I don't recall any specific ones off hand. Run by your Porsche dealer and get a printout the latest approved oils list. I get one of these lists every couple of years or so.
You might get lucky and find an approved oil that is also approved for use in your M-B. If not then my advice would be to run whatever oil M-B approves for its car and as I said above run an approved oil in your 996.
If you elect to run a non-approved oil you can use any criteria in picking the non approved oil you want to run. The Rotella jug is quite colorful. As good as any reason then to run it.
My advice is to run an approved oil in your Porsche. There are around 100 to choose from but Mobil 0w-40 is probably the best choice. If you live where it doesn't get that cold you can run 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!) if you are afraid of the "40" weight in "0w-40". (0w-40 oil held up real well in both my Boxster and my Turbo in triple digit heat.)
If you want something in the "5w-40" class of oils there are a number of oils to choose from. I don't recall any specific ones off hand. Run by your Porsche dealer and get a printout the latest approved oils list. I get one of these lists every couple of years or so.
You might get lucky and find an approved oil that is also approved for use in your M-B. If not then my advice would be to run whatever oil M-B approves for its car and as I said above run an approved oil in your 996.
If you elect to run a non-approved oil you can use any criteria in picking the non approved oil you want to run. The Rotella jug is quite colorful. As good as any reason then to run it.
08-16-2017, 03:35 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
08-31-2017, 01:55 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Small update on this, I found the 2.5 gallons of rotella on walmart for $53 and free shipping so I ordered it and used it for an oil change on my wife's Benz turbo diesel.
A couple of things were tricky, there are no graduation marks on the side of the container so harder to measure out the correct volume of oil to use, also the big container is heavy (kind of obvious) so harder on my back bending over to pour it in.
However 10 quarts for $5.30 per quart is a good price so I'll probably keep using this, I'm around 4k miles away from my next oil change in the 996
A couple of things were tricky, there are no graduation marks on the side of the container so harder to measure out the correct volume of oil to use, also the big container is heavy (kind of obvious) so harder on my back bending over to pour it in.
However 10 quarts for $5.30 per quart is a good price so I'll probably keep using this, I'm around 4k miles away from my next oil change in the 996
08-31-2017, 03:01 PM
#28
Small update on this, I found the 2.5 gallons of rotella on walmart for $53 and free shipping so I ordered it and used it for an oil change on my wife's Benz turbo diesel.
A couple of things were tricky, there are no graduation marks on the side of the container so harder to measure out the correct volume of oil to use, also the big container is heavy (kind of obvious) so harder on my back bending over to pour it in.
However 10 quarts for $5.30 per quart is a good price so I'll probably keep using this, I'm around 4k miles away from my next oil change in the 996
A couple of things were tricky, there are no graduation marks on the side of the container so harder to measure out the correct volume of oil to use, also the big container is heavy (kind of obvious) so harder on my back bending over to pour it in.
However 10 quarts for $5.30 per quart is a good price so I'll probably keep using this, I'm around 4k miles away from my next oil change in the 996
08-31-2017, 06:17 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
