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I am so bad at wrenching on this car.

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Old 08-06-2017, 10:17 AM
  #121  
Shawn Stanford
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Pics? Sure! The general mayhem & a closeup of the $10 Luch clock.

Old 08-07-2017, 09:13 AM
  #122  
Shawn Stanford
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It's raining here. There are still three kayaks on top of the Cayenne from Sunday, the Boxster needs to have a drain cleared, and my wife's old Mazda3 has a dead battery. So, I figure I'll take the Shark. Why not? The window seals are in, the window goes up and down, the stuff you need for driving (lights, signals, wipers) works.

I get out and get to the end of the block and the battery light comes on, and I notice there are only 10 volts in the system. Normally it shows 14v when the car is running. So, it looks like the alternator has quit? WTF? This is the brand new alternator I put in last Frenzy.

I ended up driving the Boxster in.

The way things are going, I may end up bringing it to Frenzy.
Old 08-07-2017, 09:25 AM
  #123  
Shawn Stanford
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Hmm...

The other day I was in the relays in the footwell trying to run down the high beams not functioning. I found a DIY wire running from bottom pin on the starter relay to ground. I pulled it, and everything seemed fine.

Any chance that was somehow kicking the alternator?
Old 08-07-2017, 10:33 AM
  #124  
Adk46
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Black wires matter. Put it back.
Old 08-07-2017, 10:39 AM
  #125  
Shawn Stanford
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That's my intention, I was just looking for confirmation.
Old 08-08-2017, 12:21 AM
  #126  
elgy
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What is the diameter of the body of the Luch clock? Their ad says:

Diameter of the clock: 60 mm, 2.36 in
Mounting diameter of the clock: 58 mm, 2.28 in

My clock (from a 924S, but which seems the same size as the 928 is 2 1/16" or +/- 53mm. 58 mm would not fit in the hole.

Thanks

Last edited by elgy; 08-08-2017 at 06:51 PM.
Old 08-08-2017, 08:07 AM
  #127  
Shawn Stanford
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I'll measure it for you later tonight. However, I have an '82, and I think it used the same clock.
Old 08-09-2017, 10:50 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Shawn Stanford
... The weatherstripping: So, I picked up this weatherstrip with a metal pinch channel and a square rubber scraper. The existing window trim was too wide for it. BUT, when I pulled off the window trim, it was a perfect fit. It was also a good fit on the inside of the door (we're talking the lower edges here). So, I cut it and stuck it on there are it seems to work pretty good. It even looks okay against the door with the original trim piece removed.

The drawbacks are that the window is having to work a little to move because the scrapers are a tad bigger and pinch the window a little tighter. The other is that I still need about four inches of the original trim to mount on the rear vertical portion of the window where it approaches the curve. So, I'd have to cut the original trim piece.

But the window is stable and weather tight. It will do for the time being.
I just reread most of your thread and came across this that I had missed. I have the same problem. Can you post the source and pictures of your alternative solution for the window scraper? Mine ripped when I was working on the window.
You and I are doing a lot of the same stuff... I am following the work on the quarter panels with interest, and then there is the clock...
Old 08-09-2017, 05:55 PM
  #129  
Shawn Stanford
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This for the upper channel: Precision Parts 75 0634 Universal Weatherstrip Seal, Glass Run Channel Weatherstrip type, Sold Individually

This for the bottom: Car Weatherstripping Door Rubber Seal Horizontal Bulb Molded 0.62" Bulb Height x 0.039"-0.137" Grip Range x 0.53 U Height (15 Feet)

Although this should also work for the bottom, and might work better: Precision Parts UWS 137-25 Universal Weatherstrip Seal, Universal Weatherstripping type, Sold Individually
Old 08-24-2017, 09:04 AM
  #130  
Shawn Stanford
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I've been spending time in the garage over the last couple weeks, but not really feeling like I accomplished anything. Last night some stuff got checked off and I'm happy.

I'm still chasing the alternator problem. I've narrowed it to not having enough voltage on the exciter circuit. I'm only showing 2.4v at the #1 pin and at the alternator. I'm running a little short on time, so my plan is to jump 12v directly to the exciter. In preparing to do this, I realized that at some point in the last month or so, my battery charger has died, so I picked up a $30 Harbor Freight model. I should have enough charge tonight to get the car started and try jumping the exciter.

I've got most of the pieces I need for a new radio, lacking only an amp and a head unit, and I know what I want. Those will get ordered tomorrow. But, I have a spare-tire subwoofer from a Nissan Murano, a pair of 4x6" for the rear, and pair of 4" and a pair of dome tweeters for the doors. The tweeters are only an inch across, so last night I cut a couple of disks out of heavy-duty plastic (school notebook), cut a circle for the tweeter, and painted them black. I had a couple of generic wire mess grills that fit into the existing mounting point, and the whole thing went together well. I have a pair of Boston Acoustics crossovers that I picked up on eBay for $20 to mount in the doors to split the signal up front. The whole thing should go together nicely. Time to get the door cards back in!

I've started gluing the new cover onto the driver's side rear quarter. This is the cover I made out of heavy vinyl. I've been hesitant to start, because this is the second time I've tried to recover a part, and the first - a pod - did not go well. But, I've really got nothing to lose at this point, so I pulled out the vinyl glue and started in one corner, and we'll see how it goes. It's got to look better than that dried-*** leather.

I picked up a little plastic pod that holds a 12v and a USB adapter. My plan is to secure them to the top of the passenger footwell tray close to the center console.

I don't have good voltage at the clock wiring, so I still haven't mounted the cheap-*** Latvian clock.

I'm starting to feel better about getting this sled to Frenzy...
Old 08-24-2017, 09:40 AM
  #131  
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When I installed USB charger ports in my '88 S4, I put one into the passenger side sill cover - the one covering the stereo amp that isn't there any more.

I figured that the passenger could use it more than I should as the driver.

I put the other one into the center console storage tray, alongside the extension USB cable from the head unit.

... and somehow, even though I went nowhere NEAR the HVAC controls, the heater valve is now staying open so I have permanent hot air.
Old 08-24-2017, 02:12 PM
  #132  
Shawn Stanford
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Originally Posted by sendarius
... and somehow, even though I went nowhere NEAR the HVAC controls, the heater valve is now staying open so I have permanent hot air.
My mixer was all messed up last year when I put my dash back together. I had to go in and get all the little tubes hooked to the right nipples. After that it was back to normal.
Old 08-24-2017, 09:50 PM
  #133  
Shawn Stanford
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Here goes nothing.
Old 08-26-2017, 08:12 PM
  #134  
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When I saw the video herein of a VW Belt change I was impressed! I've never changed my 68 1500cc Baja Bug belt that way - ever! But, I was only 15 back when I owned that car! One thing no one mentioned, or remembered that our friends in Stuttgart's sub-area Zuffenhausen (I used to live there) built the engines and had the Belts on the motor when they put the Body on, yes, the Body on.

I like Big Picture things, thus, the areas ya'll suffer through (40 hr Intake Manifold refresh) (another thread), to the simple Belt change I don't. I went into the insane zone; I removed my Body off my Chassis in reverse order it was built. Everything becomes SUPER EASY to tend to, replace, identify, and, figure out the engineering behind a particular part or system.

I too hate dirty parts, and all my stuff is super clean, super nice, and, actually better than new at this time. However, what I'm doing is likely cost-prohibitive to most 928 owners out there, I did all this to mine because I wanted to, and wanted to unlock the secrets of this automobile, and I internalized all the costs in my business. My Intake Manifold I media blasted -- yes I read all the horror stories, but, all my stuff is actually professional industrial grade equipment which is what I do for my 'fun post-Army career'; that is Media Blasting which I still am enjoying.

As I said, this process is cost-prohibitive! But, I'm basically writing the Technical Manual on this process as I looked for 6 months in all the 928 community to locate someone that has actually done and does the very insane antics I am doing. I found no one. Like this thread began; Engine Removal? I think a bit bigger; Body Removal solves that need and issue and allows many more fixes and situational awareness is very steep.

Cheers!
Old 09-01-2017, 01:59 PM
  #135  
Shawn Stanford
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I haven't spent much time in the garage due to family commitments, but I have squeezed in fifteen minutes here, 30 minutes there in the last week or so.

Still chasing the alternator problem. I have only 12.3v at the jump post when revving to 3k, so I know the alternator isn't doing its thing. I found a wiring chart for the Delco alternator I'm using, so I'm going to confirm that I hooked it back up correctly when I put the car back together, although I'm positive I saw 14v indicated since buttoning up. Once I confirm the wiring, I guess I'll drag it down to the parts store to have it bench tested.

I've already pulled part of the recovering of the panel. Working out wrinkles is interesting, and I'm sure there will be a wrinkle or two in there when I'm done. I have everything to install the new stereo except the head unit, so I can start putting in wiring for that.

Still 50/50 on if this car is going to make Frenzy. It might come down to the Boxster or the Cayenne.


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