Drive Shaft Flange Bolts
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Drive Shaft Flange Bolts
Was following instructions in DIY for starter replacement in my 96 993. The DIY states that the 6 8mm hex bolts that secure the drive shaft to the transaxle flange are easy to strip. When attempting to remove these I could feel that the hex socket was going to just strip out the bolt if I attempted to exert more force on the wrench.
It provides a replacement part number for the bolts if you should strip them. I am more concerned about how I would get them out should they strip in the process! Anyone have any experience with this?
It provides a replacement part number for the bolts if you should strip them. I am more concerned about how I would get them out should they strip in the process! Anyone have any experience with this?
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you are speaking of rounding off the head of the cap screws Snap-On, I believe makes special sockets designed to grab rounded off cap screws. Also if you are using off-brand tools the tolerances may be too loose. Consider using a Craftsman or Snap-On socket or closed end box wrench more force can be applied without distorting things. If the fasteners are socket head the same rule applies. I had this issue with flair nut wrenches where the off-branded ones would distort the hex on the nut befoe it would pop loose.
Andy
Also, a little PB blaster acidified penetrating oil and sitting over night always helps.
Andy
Also, a little PB blaster acidified penetrating oil and sitting over night always helps.
Last edited by pp000830; 06-01-2017 at 07:30 PM.
#3
Rennlist Member
With the wheel at full droop it's almost impossible to get a straight shot at the bolt. I put a jack under the wheel hub and raise it up a few inches.
#4
Rennlist Member
try some mini vice grips on the outside of the bolts and the hex socket on the inside. apply force simultaneously. worked for me on the tighter ones
#6
The first course of business is to use a quality hex socket (snapon, mac, proto, blue point...) but not until all the hex heads on the fasteners have been cleaned out thoroughly.
A good soaking with PB Blaster for 24 hours prior is always a good idea.
I like the extractor set posted above, when other attempts fail.
A good soaking with PB Blaster for 24 hours prior is always a good idea.
I like the extractor set posted above, when other attempts fail.
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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^^^^^^ this, when you have enough access for proper purchase. You squeeze exterior enough, while using proper hex bit, and it shouldn't expand enough for cap to strip. I will usually START this way if there's ANY chance it might slip. GL
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks all for the advice. I used PB Blaster let is sit for a good 12 hours then used the hex bit and vice grips on the outside and finally got them out without incident. Now just need to get the 10mm hex bolts of the starter and I'll be in business.
#9
Three Wheelin'
Excellent advice above and good to hear you got them off without incident.
I had a similar experience when I removed mine, so I replaced them with new ones from Porsche. Definitely take your time, properly seating the best allen socket you can find when you reassemble.
And for the record - I found this job extremely awkward.
I had a similar experience when I removed mine, so I replaced them with new ones from Porsche. Definitely take your time, properly seating the best allen socket you can find when you reassemble.
And for the record - I found this job extremely awkward.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Without a doubt I will using new bolts from Porsche as well. I agree it is an awkward job but I'd rather do it myself than take it to someone. The dealer here is booked for 8 weeks. Also part of the fun of having these is doing the work yourself.
#12
Prior to reinstallation, you'll want to clean those internal threads as well as possible using solvent and a thread chaser (not a tap). I used blue Loktite for reinstallation, but Porsche may spec the red Loktite.