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Yeah, there are 3 ways to see. One is through the site hole on the front of the cam tower. That's the first pic in the above post, just with the cover with the sight hole removed. The second is through the little sight window on topish of the bell housing. This one is very hard to see, as you guys found out. It takes practice, and a flash light, for me at least. And even having done it several times, it takes me a few minutes to find the right angle again.
The third way is from the bottom with the starter removed. That's the second picture above.
all three are just to double check the others. If everything is still lined up (belt was installed right, hasn't jumped teeth, or stretched) they should all line up together.
If you guys just can't see the flywheel mark from up top, get the cam aligned, then pull the starter and use the marks on bottom to verify and fine tune. Then lock it in place. The flywheel marks are the definitive marks, the cam marks are really just for getting the cam back in place while replacing the belt. The cam will move during the job.
Edit: Here is what it should look like from the top side. However, most of the time you'll have a lot more rust and it's much harder to see the flywheel marks (red arrow). They should align with tab thingie that is attached to the bell housing (Green arrow).
Just think, with a clay bar and a bit of polish, this will be your car (new in the movie back then!) in 16 candles.
Hey I forgot that there was a 944 in 16 candles. I haven't seen that movie in a long time, absolutely great flick.
With regards to all the kind fellows giving me advice: Much appreciated! I'll probably use the chopstick, starter, and dizzy methods to find TDC. It's just both Pelican Parts and Clark's Garage recommend using the top of the flywheel mark as your main way of seeing the timing mark, with Clark's saying that the bottom flywheel mark can get you a tooth off. That scares me, so I wanted to see what my options are, but you guys say it's fine so I'm okay with that.
I just want to say I didn't abandon the car (for too long, anyways). The summer heat has cooled down and the car is back in the air. I've got the engine at TDC (not locked yet though), and I've got the plugs out. I noticed this nasty lumpy mess on #2, and #3 and #4 are pretty oily. I know that they had the car running on 8-year-old California gas about 3 years ago, which probably wasn't good for it. Should I be concerned yet, or just focus on the timing belt and fuel pump and change the spark plugs for now and see what's what once I'm there?
Remove the fuel pump cover, disconnect the tank side of the hose, and drain the old gasoline out of the tank. You may need to replace the fuel pump, and of course the fuel filter. Buy a new fuel tank to pump hose ($15) while you're in there.
Once it's out, you can put a battery in it BRIEFLY and see if the fuel pump runs.
Last edited by PaulD_944S2; 10-11-2018 at 11:09 PM.
Remove the fuel pump cover, disconnect the tank side of the hose, and drain the old gasoline out of the tank. You may need to replace the fuel pump, and of course the fuel filter. Buy a need fuel tank to pump hose ($15) while you're in there.
Once it's out, you can put a battery in it BRIEFLY and see if the fuel pump runs.
Yeah the old gas is totally drained. I've had some high quality gas sitting in it with fuel stabilizer, but I was gonna drain that again too since it's been like 5 months(my other car will run on anything so it's not going to waste). I've got a new filter and I already checked the pump. With the ignition on it makes no noise at all. My guess is the pump is totally gummed so I'm gonna probably order another soon.
Good call on the hose, I'll be sure to grab one next time I'm in partsville.
Yeah the old gas is totally drained. I've had some high quality gas sitting in it with fuel stabilizer, but I was gonna drain that again too since it's been like 5 months(my other car will run on anything so it's not going to waste). I've got a new filter and I already checked the pump. With the ignition on it makes no noise at all. My guess is the pump is totally gummed so I'm gonna probably order another soon.
Good call on the hose, I'll be sure to grab one next time I'm in partsville.
These don't run the fuel pump with the ignition on. It will run only with the Key in the "start" position until the car starts. It's a safety thing. Most modern cars will "prime" the pump for a few seconds when the key is first moved to "on". But not ours (unless you have the F9Tech solid state fuel relay with fuel pump prime... like one of mine does).
If it was me, I'd remove the fuel pump, google up the wiring to figure out what's positive and negative, then test it straight off a battery. OR unhook the starter and try it with the key on "start".
One last testing option is you can "jump" the fuel pump relay to power the pump with the ignition "on". There are lots of write ups about bypassing the relay since they are a problem child. (And why there is solid state relays in the aftermarket now)
These don't run the fuel pump with the ignition on. It will run only with the Key in the "start" position until the car starts. It's a safety thing. Most modern cars will "prime" the pump for a few seconds when the key is first moved to "on". But not ours (unless you have the F9Tech solid state fuel relay with fuel pump prime... like one of mine does).
If it was me, I'd remove the fuel pump, google up the wiring to figure out what's positive and negative, then test it straight off a battery. OR unhook the starter and try it with the key on "start".
One last testing option is you can "jump" the fuel pump relay to power the pump with the ignition "on". There are lots of write ups about bypassing the relay since they are a problem child. (And why there is solid state relays in the aftermarket now)
Woah, that's good to know, thanks! I'll have the starter out when I put the clutch lock in, I can test the fuel pump then.
These don't run the fuel pump with the ignition on. It will run only with the Key in the "start" position until the car starts.
I thought the fuel pump would not run at all without the DME seeing the signal from the crank sensor, or maybe I am wrong or this is an early vs. late issue.
The easiest way to check the fuel pump is with a DME relay jumper, which is a good thing to keep in the car for emergencies anyway. You can find out how to make one on clarks-garage:
Yesterday I got the airbox out, starter out, engine at TDC, flywheel lock in. Today (or tomorrow, the next day, etc) pull the crank pully and get the timing cover off so I can really start on the belt job.
After all that's done, the to-do list is
Drop exhaust
Drop Transaxle
Drop Fuel Tank
Clean Fuel Tank
Blow out all fuel lines
Replace filter
Test pump (replace if needed)
Check injectors
New Spark Plugs
Install Fuel Tank
Install Transaxle
Install Exhaust
Why does it feel like the list keeps getting bigger?
You're making some excellent progress and doing the job right. My hat's off to you for listening to the advice of our fellow forum members and for treating this car right! Can't wait to see more pics of the car! Also wanted to ask, what are the option codes and did you get any paperwork with the car or any maintenance history?
You're making some excellent progress and doing the job right. My hat's off to you for listening to the advice of our fellow forum members and for treating this car right! Can't wait to see more pics of the car! Also wanted to ask, what are the option codes and did you get any paperwork with the car or any maintenance history?
Thanks! I want to do it right so I don't have to do it twice.
Can you remind me where to find the option codes? I remember looking at them but I don't remember where. Door sticker?
Paperwork: Yeah I got quite a bit. I haven't gone through it all, though. There's a fair bit of maintenance receipts, but no concise history or log since 1993, and I know the car was driven regularly for at least 10 years after that. I need to go through it all and itemize it, though.
I'll look at the option codes when I get home from work.
The option code sticker is affixed to the body, behind the rear carpet section, next to the left tail lamp assembly. Its white with black print. Can't miss it. There should be a duplicate of the sticker in owners manual as well. How's the interior on the car?
You're making some excellent progress and doing the job right. My hat's off to you for listening to the advice of our fellow forum members and for treating this car right! Can't wait to see more pics of the car! Also wanted to ask, what are the option codes and did you get any paperwork with the car or any maintenance history?
Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
The option code sticker is affixed to the body, behind the rear carpet section, next to the left tail lamp assembly. Its white with black print. Can't miss it. There should be a duplicate of the sticker in owners manual as well. How's the interior on the car?
Thanks! I don't have the owner's manual. Interior is actually a good 7.5/10 or so. Just dusty but with some armor all it'll shine right up. Dash is cracked all to hell though.
It's a real pain the option sticker is in the hatch, since my hatch doesn't open properly. That's why I didn't go look it up yesterday, too tired. Today I'll be all over the car though so I can take the time to crawl in there and find it.
I know the car has an LSD, at least, from the behavior of the wheels when the car is up in the air. My last car with an LSD was my RV, so this'll be fun!
05-08-2017, 10:16 PM
