So I bought an Ebay turbo kit for Wilson
#302
Race Car
Thread Starter
This is probably as close as I've ever come to being a machinist. LOL.
As you can see by the markings left on the top left intake spacer, my plan to use the hydraulic tool failed. In a big way. Man this 6000 series aluminum is friggen tough!
This tool will normally rated to max out at 1/8" mild steel. This is 1/4" alu.
#305
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This is probably as close as I've ever come to being a machinist. LOL.
As you can see by the markings left on the top left intake spacer, my plan to use the hydraulic tool failed. In a big way. Man this 6000 series aluminum is friggen tough!
This tool will normally rated to max out at 1/8" mild steel. This is 1/4" alu.
#306
Pro
#308
Race Car
Thread Starter
To make everything fit my intercooler runs "backwards" from Stock, no problem...Attachment 1161189Attachment 1161188
Second, with such a powerful car, how is the drivability. Track only, at those power levels?
3rd, thanks for the inspirational pics; you really have an efficient cooler set up. I will have more lag no doubt with the big ol' charge air piping. When I get an aluminum welder I will improve upon it.
4th; did you mig weld your turbo's cast iron?
#309
Race Car
Thread Starter
Was going to "pie cut" some tube for severe angles of exhaust.
But number 1, I HATE grinding & I don't have a bandsaw. Number 2: mig welding pie cuts is a lot less cool looking then tig welding pie cuts & I don't got no tig. Number 3: I am thinking an acute angle for exhaust bents isn't good for power-makin' and mandrel bent tubes are going to be smoother on the inside.
Found these 2.5" 120 degree bends with BEAUTIFUL shape at Summit. Holy crap these are quality.
I'd like to at this time thank all of you for your support.
But number 1, I HATE grinding & I don't have a bandsaw. Number 2: mig welding pie cuts is a lot less cool looking then tig welding pie cuts & I don't got no tig. Number 3: I am thinking an acute angle for exhaust bents isn't good for power-makin' and mandrel bent tubes are going to be smoother on the inside.
Found these 2.5" 120 degree bends with BEAUTIFUL shape at Summit. Holy crap these are quality.
I'd like to at this time thank all of you for your support.
#310
Race Car
Thread Starter
Here's another shot of the elbows.
Here's a shot of the "rough" intake spacers before polish. I don't know if I will use them. No doubt the spacers would help the clearance issues but the bad part is I made them with using a 1.75" hole saw (which is about exactly what the gaskets are), but I overlooked the fact that the ports are a bit smaller than the gasket bores. Just a tiny bit smaller.
It seems like a step counter-productive in terms of efficient air flow to use these. So I don't think I will. That leaves me a bit depressed tonight. If I had the head off I might bore the head out to match but that ship has sailed. My best options are to run without them or make new ones.
Here's a shot of the "rough" intake spacers before polish. I don't know if I will use them. No doubt the spacers would help the clearance issues but the bad part is I made them with using a 1.75" hole saw (which is about exactly what the gaskets are), but I overlooked the fact that the ports are a bit smaller than the gasket bores. Just a tiny bit smaller.
It seems like a step counter-productive in terms of efficient air flow to use these. So I don't think I will. That leaves me a bit depressed tonight. If I had the head off I might bore the head out to match but that ship has sailed. My best options are to run without them or make new ones.
#311
Race Car
Thread Starter
Perspective. See? It looks... not ideal. As a paper gasket.. fine, but as a .25" thick transition... not "performance" grade. I might use one as a key chain though. Pretty cool key chain!
Tonight, my goal was to see how the oil drain clearance is in relation to the driver's side engine mount. Porsche uses a different engine mount with an oil drain gallery apparently in the 951. SMART!
I installed the fittings for the oil drain and observed clearance issues on the engine mount.
What have I learned? If you are going to turbo an N/A, do not run a coolant cooled turbo... there are well enough other issues to deal with!
Tonight, my goal was to see how the oil drain clearance is in relation to the driver's side engine mount. Porsche uses a different engine mount with an oil drain gallery apparently in the 951. SMART!
I installed the fittings for the oil drain and observed clearance issues on the engine mount.
What have I learned? If you are going to turbo an N/A, do not run a coolant cooled turbo... there are well enough other issues to deal with!
#313
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Don't worry about the small step in the "spacer flange".
The manifold and head are pretty matched, right?
So the max cross section of airflow will be coming out of the intake port, which matches up with the manifold.
Your 1/4" thick slightly oversized section in the middle won't be an issue...the real idea with gasket/port matching is to make sure the head and manifold are the same size so there isn't an abrupt step at the intake port versus and oversized manifold runner.
Think like a plumbing pipe...you get two ends of pipe and connect them with a "hub coupler". The hub coupler is larger ID than the pipes and there is a small gap between pipe ends.
Does it really matter?
The manifold and head are pretty matched, right?
So the max cross section of airflow will be coming out of the intake port, which matches up with the manifold.
Your 1/4" thick slightly oversized section in the middle won't be an issue...the real idea with gasket/port matching is to make sure the head and manifold are the same size so there isn't an abrupt step at the intake port versus and oversized manifold runner.
Think like a plumbing pipe...you get two ends of pipe and connect them with a "hub coupler". The hub coupler is larger ID than the pipes and there is a small gap between pipe ends.
Does it really matter?