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Recent progress:
I've essentially just pulled more parts. I've opened up the dash assembly and am about ready to pull the dash itself off. The HVAC vents, tubes, and controller are out now, and the steering wheel shroud and a few other miscellaneous things are gone. I can't take off much else until I remove the dashboard. Then the large HVAC / heater core system (which reminds me I need to get a bypass tube and clamps), a few mounting beams/plates, the cruise control, and whatever other unneccessary miscellaneous parts I run into will come off. I'll have to figure out relocating the fuse box, relay box, and maybe immobilizer as well as eliminating wires. I'd like to take it to a PCA DE at the end of this month so I'll have to either find a lot more time than I've been finding or partially reassemble it only to tear it back down again.
Brake System:
I now have a brake system overhaul in hand. I was about to start with the front pads and rotors today but I ran into wheel locks with no key and worked on the dash instead. I contacted the previous owner (nice guy) and found the key right away - I'm blind is the problem - but I'll have to start on the brakes another day. The parts ready to go on the car are:
Fluid - Endless 650
Pads - Raybestos ST-43
Rotors - Cquence slotted
SS Lines - Goodridge
Brake Ducts (front only) - 997 GT3 ($11 for the pair at Pelican!)
Later on I may pick up a fan driven cooler for front air ducts like some of the race shops do and maybe grab the OE plastic rear ducts from some 911 or another, but for now I expect this setup will work well enough.
Next steps:
Remove lots of hardware behind the dash, relocate the boxes, remove lots of wires, remount the dash when it's all done
Remove windshield washer system
Remove rear spoiler motor and assembly, decide how to mount it
And if I get bored:
Remove more of the door hardware since the only thing working is the latches and the windows
Remove all window hardware too and add pins and/or an L bracket so they can be "closed" while the car is not in use
Remove AC hardware
Remove SAI system
Other stuff:
I may have found a deal on a pair of used-but-current Recaros that's far too good to pass up, so if it comes to fruition I'll get two seats ahead of schedule. The first and primary barrier restraining to my race car spending isn't our finances per se but rather my accounting arrangements with the wife (= what I told her I would spend on it before I bought the car) so I can get a waiver now and then.
I took some tape and a sharpie and either clipped or labeled a lot of the wire bundles before pulling the dash. I took it off today. Had to stop by the hardware store to grab a 24mm socket to get the steering wheel nut off. I also unbolted and removed the knee bar after taking the picture. The rather huge heater assembly and small cruise control box just to the right of the steering wheel are next.
Starting to think on all the wiring, it doesn't seem all that difficult. Just a lot of tedious stuff I expect. If I relocate it where the passenger airbag was maybe I can do some now and more later.
Apparently many years ago someone used nearly a full container of caulk sealing the AC lines at the firewall. Made them about impossible to remove. Ended up having to take off the cover to the AC evaporator core and cut the lines off there with a dremel tool. I could then pull them out but that caulk will be a project for another day...
I picked up a momo mod 30 wheel, momo hub, and a cheap NRG version 2.5 quick disconnect. I may resell the QD and replace it with a Rothsport later on in the build, but for now it should get the job done. Since I can't lock the doors, that enables me to easily park the car without a steering wheel. Between that and the manual transmission, a potential car thief would have to be pretty determined to take it.
I need to get the battery back in, wires out of the way, get the steering wheel aligned, and see if I need to do anything exotic to remount the instrument pod. I'll probably leave the dash out at least until I finish the wiring clean up, and perhaps for the season as I'd just have to reinstall it with new custom brackets when the cage goes in.
If I want them I'll have to get the brake parts installed pretty quick as I ended up signing up for a DE this Friday. I'm excited to see how the car does in essentially lightweight stock form!
Also, while this is certainly no big deal, can the upper dash be removed and replaced with a custom one? Reading the SPB specific rules section leaves me thinking yes as I don't know what would be the difference between the "instrument cluster" and the "instrument pod," but most cars have the full stock upper dash shell in place. Maybe I'm misinterpreting "dashboard instrument pod," maybe there's a general rule saying leave it in there, or perhaps there's just a pretty good reason to leave it in there so everybody does. In any case I think I'm missing something.
Based on the rules that you listed (7a,b), I interpret them as meaning that the dash could be removed as long as you retain the instrument cluster (pod).
That's really coming along! I feel guilty for not doing more of my car now
I agree that you should go ahead and do a cage and seats now. Cage options include custom welded cage (more $$ but safer and stiffer) or a bolt in cage (kits available). Only need 1 seat so buy an OMG or Kirkey (less $$).
It's a 1997 with 70k miles and a good driver condition car (well, it was) with a good maintenance history, no accidents, and no stories. I paid a bit much for a race car donor at $7k + $2k for an installed OEM hardtop and a second set of wheels. I know there were decent donors for $5-6k in Southern California, but I'd have had to spend another $1k to get it here and deal with any risks and trouble. The seller was a nice local PCA member so it just seemed like a good way to go. I'm happy with it 🙂
I'd like to do a cage and a seat now but I plan to design the cage before pulling the trigger. The seats may still happen but only if I get the screaming deal - so far no dice.
We have a few house projects in work that we need to pay for and we committed to help a family member with college costs (didn't realize that would start in a few weeks, thought we'd have 'til fall), so I'll have to keep the spending pretty modest from now until the next cash infusion this winter. Lots of stuff can still come out, but I'm going to try to wait on most of the parts.
I planned to make it to a DE at the end of the month and do the brakes in the meantime (mostly this weekend), but my wife swapped shifts and now I have the baby that day. So I found a NASA event this Friday and shuffled a few things around so I can make it out there. I ziptied in the instrument pod in at four places over the wheel and took the car to a shop near my work to have them do the brakes and give the car a track oriented alignment (suitable for the current street tires). I forgot how expensive it is to pay someone to do a few hours of work for you or I'd have probably just gone on the stock brakes this time. Ah well, it will be nice to have good confidence in the brakes!
I know that many shy away from brakes, but I have always found it to be an easy job. Buy a Motive power bleeder for quick bleeds and fluid changes, it is well worth the money ($60?).
Yeah I have one - great little kit. I don't mind brakes but just ran out of time - big project at work is running late now. Since I've got the DE on Friday instead of a week or two later I figured I'll just put in a few more hours at the office this week and give some of the money to the shop. Makes everybody happy I guess.
Brakes are in. Sure goes fast when somebody else does it while you're at work! On the alignment, the initial front left toe was off a ways and the front had zero camber. Should be a bit better now.
I was curious, so I weighed the car at a Pilot truck stop with a shade under an indicated quarter tank of gas and two OEM seats. Came to 2580 lbs. Don't know if that's good or bad, but I have a lot more parts to remove!
Brakes are in. Sure goes fast when somebody else does it while you're at work! On the alignment, the initial front left toe was off a ways and the front had zero camber. Should be a bit better now.
I was curious, so I weighed the car at a Pilot truck stop with a shade under an indicated quarter tank of gas and two OEM seats. Came to 2580 lbs. Don't know if that's good or bad, but I have a lot more parts to remove!
04-09-2017, 02:13 AM
