The 996 GT3 Cars For Sale Thread...
#46
Rennlist Member
Hey guys...mine's for sale now. 38k miles, mostly stock, collector quality.
Never really been on track...well maybe just a time or two (per month) but driven by an aging fat guy at just above beginner level driving ability. I mostly run Green group so I can win at DE but again no real track time it's just that one DE trophy that will go with the car. I have concourse trophy I won at a regional car show which had nothing to do with a popularity contest vs. actual car condition. I'd like to keep that trophy though but will include at an extra cost.
$120k since it's collector quality and best of the best and never raced. Yellow is also the most produced but fastest so it's way more desirable than the rest. This is an actual fact i was told by a guy in Germany once.
Never really been on track...well maybe just a time or two (per month) but driven by an aging fat guy at just above beginner level driving ability. I mostly run Green group so I can win at DE but again no real track time it's just that one DE trophy that will go with the car. I have concourse trophy I won at a regional car show which had nothing to do with a popularity contest vs. actual car condition. I'd like to keep that trophy though but will include at an extra cost.
$120k since it's collector quality and best of the best and never raced. Yellow is also the most produced but fastest so it's way more desirable than the rest. This is an actual fact i was told by a guy in Germany once.
#47
Race Car
Couldn't agree with you more. Corvette Grand Sport is the only thing I'd consider given the current market and I'm just still having way too much fun with my old girl to give her up right now.
#49
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
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Incoming:
19k miles, one of 13 total 996 cars for NA with A/C delete. About half of those had PCCBs.
19k miles, one of 13 total 996 cars for NA with A/C delete. About half of those had PCCBs.
#51
Three Wheelin'
Just listed mine for sale, 2005. I have many more photos to share if you are interested
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...5-996-gt3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...5-996-gt3.html
#54
Race Car
#55
Rennlist Member
Not yet. Only had the Corvette GS to NCM for a weekend. Still a lot to explore, but my initial impression is it is slightly faster and easier to drive, better brakes, more grip. I hope to take it to Watkins Glen next month, and I'll get an apples to apples comparison. I need to learn the driving modes, put in seats and harnesses, find the alignment sweet spot, etc.
#56
Originally Posted by Chuck Price
Not yet. Only had the Corvette GS to NCM for a weekend. Still a lot to explore, but my initial impression is it is slightly faster and easier to drive, better brakes, more grip. I hope to take it to Watkins Glen next month, and I'll get an apples to apples comparison. I need to learn the driving modes, put in seats and harnesses, find the alignment sweet spot, etc.
I drove my gt350 at Sebring last weekend. 996gt3 was in the shop for some fixing up before the Euro trip.
Impression was the opposite from the GS you drive. Gt350 felt big and heavy and moved around quite a bit. (Harder for me to drive) I've been driving 996gt3s for 15 years so more comfortable with that platform.
Similar laptimes for the gt350 and 996gt3. They both run around 2.25 with great drivers behind the wheel. I'm a little slower than those guys.
996gt3 on NT01s and gt350 on R888R. So very similar tires.
#57
Rennlist Member
#58
Nordschleife Master
Procrastinated long enough, so here it is: https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...l#post14125315
Copy and paste from ad:
Looking for $75,000 Cdn (approx. $56,000 USD)
Second Owner
Canadian Car
In Toronto
59,300 km (36,850 miles) (purchased in 2010 with 24,000 km)
C36 – Canadian Car
XSC – Porsche Crest in Headrest
X47 – Carbon Handbrake
X58 – Carbon Shifter
X69 – Door sills in carbon embossed with model insignia
288 – Headlight washer
571 – Fog tail lamp
573 – Air conditioner
601 – Litronic Headlights
- Full monoball suspension (all rubber removed)
- Springs: 950 lbs Front / 1050 lbs Rear
- Cup front and rear sub-frames for lower C of G
- 2-piece lower control arms at all 4 corners (normally only in the front)
- Adjustable rear toe links with bump steer
- Close-ratio 996 Cup gearbox (refreshed mid-2013, invoice available)
- 997.2 GT3 RS 4.0 clutch disc and pressure plate (new disc, 1 yr old pp)
- Light weight flywheel
- 997 shifter
- Cup shifter cables
- 997.2 GT3 RS crown and pinion (shorter ratio)
- Porsche Motorsports Cup LSD clutch pack
- Full Fabspeed exhaust system (header, muffler, cats) (passes sound at Tremblant and Calabogie)
- Pinned coolant fittings
- AC delete
- ECU tune
- GT3 leather bucket seats (factory)
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Cup brake ducts
- Castrol SRF brake fluid
- GT3 OEM front bumper with RS slots, tilted radiator, and blocked lower exhaust
- Radiator screens
- Axles replaced 2014
- New battery + Alternator rebuild July 2014
One incident: I went off track a few years ago at Road America. One axle broke and the wobbly wheel chewed up the speed sensor so I lost the ABS, but had no indication. Result was that I flat spotted the front tires and went straight off and into the tire wall. I replaced the bumper and hood, plus the side rads (not the front one however). The bottom front of the trunk was pushed in and I hammered it back out, but that was it.
Copy and paste from ad:
Looking for $75,000 Cdn (approx. $56,000 USD)
Second Owner
Canadian Car
In Toronto
59,300 km (36,850 miles) (purchased in 2010 with 24,000 km)
C36 – Canadian Car
XSC – Porsche Crest in Headrest
X47 – Carbon Handbrake
X58 – Carbon Shifter
X69 – Door sills in carbon embossed with model insignia
288 – Headlight washer
571 – Fog tail lamp
573 – Air conditioner
601 – Litronic Headlights
- Full monoball suspension (all rubber removed)
- Springs: 950 lbs Front / 1050 lbs Rear
- Cup front and rear sub-frames for lower C of G
- 2-piece lower control arms at all 4 corners (normally only in the front)
- Adjustable rear toe links with bump steer
- Close-ratio 996 Cup gearbox (refreshed mid-2013, invoice available)
- 997.2 GT3 RS 4.0 clutch disc and pressure plate (new disc, 1 yr old pp)
- Light weight flywheel
- 997 shifter
- Cup shifter cables
- 997.2 GT3 RS crown and pinion (shorter ratio)
- Porsche Motorsports Cup LSD clutch pack
- Full Fabspeed exhaust system (header, muffler, cats) (passes sound at Tremblant and Calabogie)
- Pinned coolant fittings
- AC delete
- ECU tune
- GT3 leather bucket seats (factory)
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Cup brake ducts
- Castrol SRF brake fluid
- GT3 OEM front bumper with RS slots, tilted radiator, and blocked lower exhaust
- Radiator screens
- Axles replaced 2014
- New battery + Alternator rebuild July 2014
One incident: I went off track a few years ago at Road America. One axle broke and the wobbly wheel chewed up the speed sensor so I lost the ABS, but had no indication. Result was that I flat spotted the front tires and went straight off and into the tire wall. I replaced the bumper and hood, plus the side rads (not the front one however). The bottom front of the trunk was pushed in and I hammered it back out, but that was it.
#59
Rennlist Member
Wow, good luck with the sale! Someone looking for a track car can literally save 20k buying this thing! Very curious of the seat of the pants 3.89 ring and pinion upgrade from the 997.2 rs? Did it make a big difference in straight line performance? I've been thinking about that mod, as its the best way to effectively increase the torque of these cars!
#60
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Scott.
The R & P mod is great and yes, it does give you the impression of more torque.
The best thing to do on these cars is to move the 5th to 6th (get rid of 6th) and then to rearrange the other gears; you'll have to search cause I forgot what to do where, but it's relatively cheap and a great bang for the buck.
Replacing the R and P is good, but does nothing about the long gears.
In my case, I did a 4:1 R and P along with the cup box, but the R and P galled a year later so I replaced it with what I found, a 3.89:1 from a 997.2, which will last longer anyway because the gears hit different teeth on every rotation.
The R & P mod is great and yes, it does give you the impression of more torque.
The best thing to do on these cars is to move the 5th to 6th (get rid of 6th) and then to rearrange the other gears; you'll have to search cause I forgot what to do where, but it's relatively cheap and a great bang for the buck.
Replacing the R and P is good, but does nothing about the long gears.
In my case, I did a 4:1 R and P along with the cup box, but the R and P galled a year later so I replaced it with what I found, a 3.89:1 from a 997.2, which will last longer anyway because the gears hit different teeth on every rotation.