When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Trying to get gear lube into the top fill hole of a transmission or transfer case on a Jeep a few years ago. The lube bottle had to be lower than the fill hole. So I needed a way to pump it up. Got a 1-quart paint can with the press-on lid just like a gallon bucket. Put a 1/4" air line quick release fitting in one side of the lid. Put a hose barb fitting on the other side, with a length of hose attached. Crawled under Jeep with air hose in one hand, can filled with lube in the other, with lid firmly attached. Put the hose up into the fill hole.
Now all I needed to do for my brilliant engineering to work was to pop the airline onto the quick release and pressurize the can. I'd turned the air pressure way down to something like 20 psi. Which proved to be about 19psi too much.
Blew the lid off of the can (actually, it blew the can off the bottom of the lid) and sent a quart of 80-weight lube all over me, the garage floor and the underside of the Jeep. I was six months getting lube remnants out of the RaceDeck flooring joints.
As for the 991, definitely the 3/4" drive 600 lbs-ft torque wrench for the centerlock wheels. It's the sort of tool you generally work on locomotives with.
Toss up between my checkbook.....and maybe when I used a wire coat hanger to remove the center wheel caps LOL...
Yeah, I made one from a coat hanger too... works perfectly.
This one was handy I thought, but maybe not terribly weird: I used two ⅜" wooden dowels to keep the calipers from dropping or pulling on their lines while I changed the pads, instead of a brake caliper hanger. As each caliper bolt is removed I inserted one of these down through the bolt hole (it is slightly smaller than the threads), then to change the pads I just slide the caliper out far enough to get the pad spreader in and the pads switched. It also makes everything line right back up when you are ready to put the bolts back in.
Just be careful to use a strong wood that won't snap easily since the calipers are fairly heavy. It might actually be better to use an aluminum rod. (I looked in Lowe's and found if I had spent $4.50 I could have gotten aluminum instead of wood at $2.50). I snapped one of the wood ones on the first wheel but was gentler with the others.
The other device in the first photo is a pad spreader just FYI... A whopping $14 on Amazon.
Yeah, I made one from a coat hanger too... works perfectly.
This one was handy I thought, but maybe not terribly weird: I used two ⅜" wooden dowels to keep the calipers from dropping or pulling on their lines while I changed the pads, instead of a brake caliper hanger. As each caliper bolt is removed I inserted one of these down through the bolt hole (it is slightly smaller than the threads), then to change the pads I just slide the caliper out far enough to get the pad spreader in and the pads switched. It also makes everything line right back up when you are ready to put the bolts back in.
Just be careful to use a strong wood that won't snap easily since the calipers are fairly heavy. It might actually be better to use an aluminum rod. (I looked in Lowe's and found if I had spent $4.50 I could have gotten aluminum instead of wood at $2.50). I snapped one of the wood ones on the first wheel but was gentler with the others.
The other device in the first photo is a pad spreader just FYI... A whopping $14 on Amazon.
10-29-2016, 12:43 PM
