New project car: engine fire '86 951
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nice car, I was actually talking to the guy about buying it before Lart, but he was going to be away for about a month and i never heard back from him. Glad its getting saved! Good luck with the project, im doing similar on my current turbo refreshing the engine and installing EMS 4 with COP.
Mark
Mark
#17
Mark
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
On friday or saturday I'm going to head down to junkyard and lay eyes on what's out there. If I find anything, I'll bring it back and mock it up... if that goes well, I'll order some for real.
Any in particular you suspect may work well? I'm leaning toward logic-level (0-5v signal) COPs that are short in length. I'll post results here and in the main Megasquirt thread that Doug made if there's a winner.
Any in particular you suspect may work well? I'm leaning toward logic-level (0-5v signal) COPs that are short in length. I'll post results here and in the main Megasquirt thread that Doug made if there's a winner.
#19
My preference is also a newer 0-5v coil, im thinking to do a true COP setup is going to require a bracket that bolts to the head with a raised mounting tab for the coil. But the new Macan/Panamara 3.0/3.6 coils are very short and square and use a rubber boot to extend to the plug, something like that might work really well. ill have to grab a picture of one next time i have one off.
What are you planning do for crank/cam pickup? Im doing the generic AEM EPM that gives both a Cam and crank signal and making an adapter to mount it where the dist cap was.
Mark
What are you planning do for crank/cam pickup? Im doing the generic AEM EPM that gives both a Cam and crank signal and making an adapter to mount it where the dist cap was.
Mark
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I was planning on just using a 36-1 wheel and a hall effect sensor, that setup has worked with zero issue whatsoever all the way to redline in my NA car: http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
I have been toying with using a DSM cam angle sensor, which actually looks almost exactly like the AEM EPM you posted. It also uses an optical shutter wheel and outputs crank and cam signals. The main hurdle would be adapting it to the cam snout but I think cutting and notching the cog retainer would work. And then just drill and tap the belt cover plate. I like this route because I won't have to fab a bracket for the crank sensor... as you can see in my above photo, I picked up a stud that was originally for a balance shaft roller (BS delete engine in my NA) but I won't have that luxury in the 951.
DSM CAS:
I have been toying with using a DSM cam angle sensor, which actually looks almost exactly like the AEM EPM you posted. It also uses an optical shutter wheel and outputs crank and cam signals. The main hurdle would be adapting it to the cam snout but I think cutting and notching the cog retainer would work. And then just drill and tap the belt cover plate. I like this route because I won't have to fab a bracket for the crank sensor... as you can see in my above photo, I picked up a stud that was originally for a balance shaft roller (BS delete engine in my NA) but I won't have that luxury in the 951.
DSM CAS:
#21
Rennlist Member
I posted pictures of my trigger set up earlier and can do it again if you like, but I trigger everything off the cam sprocket. We drilled and inserted 8 magnets into the sprocket for the ref sensors and used the rotor post to mount the sync sensor. Both are Magnetic Hal sensors. It is a fairly clean set up and gets everything up where it won't get damaged.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah I'd love pics if you have them! I'm still on the fence about running full sequential or not. My NA car runs semi-sequential fuel and wasted spark ignition and it's smooth as cream, no cam trigger required. I'm aware of the differences on paper, but has anyone experienced real world improvement in a 944 engine with full sequential sync? That will dictate if I get a MSII versus another Microsquirt. The latter is a way easier install but only has 2 injector drivers.
A few other features I'll be incorporating are: electronic boost control w/ failsafe, E85 flexfuel (moving it over from the NA car), anti-lag, and knocksense MS for knock detection. I'll also be using spare outputs to drive the cooling fans (taking over operation from the fan switch to get programmable switch point). This is a great feature and my NA only needs one fan to stay cool now
A few other features I'll be incorporating are: electronic boost control w/ failsafe, E85 flexfuel (moving it over from the NA car), anti-lag, and knocksense MS for knock detection. I'll also be using spare outputs to drive the cooling fans (taking over operation from the fan switch to get programmable switch point). This is a great feature and my NA only needs one fan to stay cool now
#23
Nordschleife Master
As far as engine bay fires go, that one looks nearly harmless (well harmless compared to the ones involving lots of gasoline anyway). Glad to see you will be saving it and not parting it out, good luck with the project.
#24
Rennlist Member
Here is the set up I am using. I also am using wasted spark. Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. There is a company out there that makes the sensor housing, I just made my didn't need to be fancy.
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I like that! I hadn't considered flying magnets, it's definitely cleaner than a trigger wheel.
Another thought I had was reading the teeth on the cam gear (sensor position at 4-5 o'clock so as not to touch the belt) and then have a sensor reading a single tooth on the cam cog retainer for sync. Only issue may be the width of the teeth vs the width of the sensor. I'd use hall sensors for low-speed clarity, given it's 1/2 engine RPM.
Another thought I had was reading the teeth on the cam gear (sensor position at 4-5 o'clock so as not to touch the belt) and then have a sensor reading a single tooth on the cam cog retainer for sync. Only issue may be the width of the teeth vs the width of the sensor. I'd use hall sensors for low-speed clarity, given it's 1/2 engine RPM.
#26
Rennlist Member
I like that! I hadn't considered flying magnets, it's definitely cleaner than a trigger wheel.
Another thought I had was reading the teeth on the cam gear (sensor position at 4-5 o'clock so as not to touch the belt) and then have a sensor reading a single tooth on the cam cog retainer for sync. Only issue may be the width of the teeth vs the width of the sensor. I'd use hall sensors for low-speed clarity, given it's 1/2 engine RPM.
Another thought I had was reading the teeth on the cam gear (sensor position at 4-5 o'clock so as not to touch the belt) and then have a sensor reading a single tooth on the cam cog retainer for sync. Only issue may be the width of the teeth vs the width of the sensor. I'd use hall sensors for low-speed clarity, given it's 1/2 engine RPM.
The sensors I am using are Hall Magnetic sensors.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Right, I'm a fan of them over VR sensors, especially at cam speeds. Don't need shielding and they produce a perfect square wave from 0 to 20,000 RPM.
Decided I'm going to go full sequential using a MS2 or MS3 unit. It's under $300 and is self-assembly, which I'm comfortable with. The Microsquirt in my NA car was pre-assembled which is cool but I want to use modern EFI to its full potential. I know there aren't huge gains but with 80# injectors, my pulse widths at idle are going to be low. I want a butter smooth idle and low rev driveability.
Decided I'm going to go full sequential using a MS2 or MS3 unit. It's under $300 and is self-assembly, which I'm comfortable with. The Microsquirt in my NA car was pre-assembled which is cool but I want to use modern EFI to its full potential. I know there aren't huge gains but with 80# injectors, my pulse widths at idle are going to be low. I want a butter smooth idle and low rev driveability.
Last edited by odonnell; 06-16-2016 at 12:10 PM.
#28
Rennlist Member
Dear Michael: I know that Nissan use optical pickups in their 90 model cars..Esp the Pathfinder V-6 3.0 Liter, but unsure about their 4cyl rigs. You might do well there. MSD uses flying magnets on their midget racer set up for 4 bangers..check out their catalogs for trigger wheels etc. I like the magnets in the cam gear rig though..clean and less hassle. Might do well on another car that I'm (re) building..the engine on.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm going to go to the junkyard soon and grab a bunch of parts to mock up and play with. It may be next month, since I'm going offshore for work and there aren't many junkyards in the gulf of mexico.
Yesterday, picked up the Twist IIs I mentioned in an earlier post. Crazy 4-way deal... bought some Forgeline RS wheels locally, and a buddy in Killeen traded his 987 wheels for the twists. Then I traded the forgelines for the twists, everyone walked away happy.
And I'm really enjoying being a bachelor... no other way I could get away with s*** like this
Yesterday, picked up the Twist IIs I mentioned in an earlier post. Crazy 4-way deal... bought some Forgeline RS wheels locally, and a buddy in Killeen traded his 987 wheels for the twists. Then I traded the forgelines for the twists, everyone walked away happy.
And I'm really enjoying being a bachelor... no other way I could get away with s*** like this