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No, I called and left a message with WD but they never returned my call. Got them from RL Classifieds from a really good guy out Jacksonville. 18" GT3 wheels seem to be the ticket.
Are you having to make any suspension adjustments to prevent understeer or should I stay pretty neutral initially?
IDK, how was your car before? My car was always pretty loose with 275s rear. Even on throttle which is not typical of 911s. It wasn't horrible but 315s should help. I just had a baby and it's kept me off track for a few months. So I've only been able to test on the streets by my house I typically use for testing when I make changes. On my car I felt really under sprung (550/650) and had tons of push but my fronts were really old with brand new rear 315s. I just changed to 650/850 and the car felt REALLY good BUT that's no alignment and I haven't mounted the new fronts yet.
So yeah, it requires adjustment but our cars are different. IIRC the rear springs on your v3s are ~1000lbs and the fronts are progressive. You should be able to dial in your car with some basic shock tuning when you get it on track.
My guess is it will be very 911ish. You'll need to point the nose toward the apex with a little trailing and add gas from there. Autocross (tighter corners) maybe more troublesome? I don't autocross so can't help you there.
Ok, sounds good. I had a some push with the stock setup on Super Sports then like you it was really loose at 245/275 on worn R6s.
I've got my alignment today and just trying to guess the best I can on how to set it up for my next track day in a week. I know Vandersmith is running middle setting on his sways and 245/315 but I'm assuming the C4S doesn't have as much natural push to it.
Are you having to make any suspension adjustments to prevent understeer or should I stay pretty neutral initially?
With moderate to plenty of negative camber, you should be fine. I get almost no understeer going in and sometimes a bit coming flat out of fast turns at the limit.
With moderate to plenty of negative camber, you should be fine. I get almost no understeer going in and sometimes a bit coming flat out of fast turns at the limit.
Ended at -1.8F and -2.5R. Will need control arms or camber plates to go any further in the front. Caster is .5 degrees off in the front(7.8 & 8.3).
Ended at -1.8F and -2.5R. Will need control arms or camber plates to go any further in the front. Caster is .5 degrees off in the front(7.8 & 8.3).
I guess one pet peeve of mine is with all the money KW is charging for the V3, you'd think they would at least come with some adjustable camber plates up front.
^But what else would you get? V3 is a nice shock and a chunk less than JRZs. Never driven pss10 but I'd take stock shocks over pss9. Unfortunately, I've found you get what you pay for with shocks.
Slakker, you'll need a front camber solution. Cheapest way is notch the tower, next is camber plates (which adds the benefit of a solid top mount), than split arms, than ERP arms. 0.5 drug of caster is quite a bit. If the castor picks are bad, maybe just find some gt3 arms...
It was only asshatting around on empty turns and twisty on-ramps but damn this setup feels good. The ride is a little bit rougher but the handling and responsiveness is insane!
OK, thanks jj1. You and johneecat have been a huge help on this project. There may be a clearance issue with the KWs and notching so just picked up some Tarret camber plates from my favorite place (RL Classifieds.). I'll try that route before springing for the GT3 control arms.
Dunno what you mean but at almost $4k retail, I would expect camber plates up front to be a standard feature IMO. Personally I think KW's are overpriced but they are definitely nice.