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I was given a dead HLR by a member of the Dallas 928 group some time ago. I also happen to have a bad seat ECU from a Range Rover which shared the same internal relays. It was tedious but I de-soldered a relay from the seat ecu pc board and used it to replace the failed relay from the HLR. At the time I also did some internet research looking for an available replacement relay. I found one very similar that looked like it could be used , but required trigger coil soldered pins to be removed and the coil wires soldered directly to the HLR board.
Below is a copy of the email I sent at the time.
Edit: the below info was based on relay PN 92861810700.
Finally got a chance to sit down and investigate the failed headlight relay from last month’s breakfast. There are 3 relays internal to the relay housing. #1 - controls the headlight motor, #2 - switches between high and low beam and #3 - supplies power to the headlights. Relay #1 and #2 appear to be specialty relays designed specifically for the headlight system; however #3 fortunately is a standard PCB mount relay.
I do not know which of the relays most commonly fails, but if the one I have is the common failure mode (headlights raise and lower, but do not turn on), then they can be fixed by replacing relay #3.
The "direct" replacement is relay part number V23133-A1001-A133. I also found another relay which looked promising (V23071-A1009-A132), but would require slightly more modification.
Both relays have the coil wires soldered to pins which are in the wrong place for installing into our combo relay, so the extremely thin coil wires need to be de-soldered from the pins and the pins need to be removed to mount the relay. V23133 is a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay which therefore has 2 sets of contacts, one for when the coil is energized and one for when it isn't. The V23071 relay is SPST (single pole single throw), only has a set of contact for when the coil is energized and is completely open when the coil isn't energized. Conveniently the installation in the combo relay only uses the one set of contacts which would allow the use of the V23071 if desired. Due to the SPST design of the V23071 one of the PCB mounting pins is located in a slightly different position; however this pin is not necessary and could be ground off.
The extra work of the V23071 may be worth it for 2 reasons.
1. from what I could find the V23133 cost about $12 ea. The V23071 cost about $6.
2. The V23133 is rated at 30A. The V23071 is rated at 70A so would potentially last longer.
For the combo relay, I took home, I conveniently scavenged a V23133 out of a defunct seat memory unit from my range rover, which I had laying around. After replacing the relay I tested it in my car and it seemed to work fine. Haven’t done any kind of a long term test though.
I would also like to try one of the V23071 relays but didn't have one available and the place I found to get them had a $30 min order so I would have had to get 6 to meet the order. Not that $30 is all that much to run an experiment, but I already had the V23133 available so tried it first. If you can come up with another relay to try to fix, I'd probably consider getting a few of the V23071s to try.
Last edited by 76FJ55; 03-30-2016 at 02:29 AM.
Reason: Add MY info
I was given a dead HLR by a member of the Dallas 928 group some time ago. I also happen to have a bad seat ECU from a Range Rover which shared the same internal relays. It was tedious but I de-soldered a relay from the seat ecu pc board and used it to replace the failed relay from the HLR. At the time I also did some internet research looking for an available replacement relay. I found one very similar that looked like it could be used , but required trigger coil soldered pins to be removed and the coil wires soldered directly to the HLR board.
Below is a copy of the email I sent at the time.
Edit: the below info was based on relay PN 92861810700.
Finally got a chance to sit down and investigate the failed headlight relay from last month’s breakfast. There are 3 relays internal to the relay housing. #1 - controls the headlight motor, #2 - switches between high and low beam and #3 - supplies power to the headlights. Relay #1 and #2 appear to be specialty relays designed specifically for the headlight system; however #3 fortunately is a standard PCB mount relay.
I do not know which of the relays most commonly fails, but if the one I have is the common failure mode (headlights raise and lower, but do not turn on), then they can be fixed by replacing relay #3.
The "direct" replacement is relay part number V23133-A1001-A133. I also found another relay which looked promising (V23071-A1009-A132), but would require slightly more modification.
Both relays have the coil wires soldered to pins which are in the wrong place for installing into our combo relay, so the extremely thin coil wires need to be de-soldered from the pins and the pins need to be removed to mount the relay. V23133 is a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay which therefore has 2 sets of contacts, one for when the coil is energized and one for when it isn't. The V23071 relay is SPST (single pole single throw), only has a set of contact for when the coil is energized and is completely open when the coil isn't energized. Conveniently the installation in the combo relay only uses the one set of contacts which would allow the use of the V23071 if desired. Due to the SPST design of the V23071 one of the PCB mounting pins is located in a slightly different position; however this pin is not necessary and could be ground off.
The extra work of the V23071 may be worth it for 2 reasons.
1. from what I could find the V23133 cost about $12 ea. The V23071 cost about $6.
2. The V23133 is rated at 30A. The V23071 is rated at 70A so would potentially last longer.
For the combo relay, I took home, I conveniently scavenged a V23133 out of a defunct seat memory unit from my range rover, which I had laying around. After replacing the relay I tested it in my car and it seemed to work fine. Haven’t done any kind of a long term test though.
I would also like to try one of the V23071 relays but didn't have one available and the place I found to get them had a $30 min order so I would have had to get 6 to meet the order. Not that $30 is all that much to run an experiment, but I already had the V23133 available so tried it first. If you can come up with another relay to try to fix, I'd probably consider getting a few of the V23071s to try.
Good work here. Very interesting.
Thanks for posting it.
My Deoxit 100 came in so I tackled this job this evening. As a note my conditions got worse, headlights wouldn't retract, and sometimes no high or low beams at all!
Here's some pics. The contacts are very tiny, what I did was cut some small strips of white paper, sprayed the contact with a touch of the Deoxit and slid the paper strips through the contact until it came out clean. Many of the contacts were covered in black carbon from 28 years of arcing! Popped it back in and all good.
03-29-2016, 11:55 PM
